40 Days and 40 Nights of Fragrance Notes: Iris
What does the iris note smell like?
I think it smells rooty and slightly powder-like.
It can be confused with violets but it is less candied or green. It is more bitter, damp and earthy.
I have seen it described as carrot-like, papery, raw potatoes, woody, soapy,or plummy.
Mr Luca Turin describes iris more romantically and quite simply perfect. This is from his review of Frederic Malle's Iris Poudre in Perfume The Guide.
For the fragonerds it is located on page 205.
"Simply stated, the problem with iris-root smell is this: everyone loves its gray, nostalgic, romantic powderiness, but the stuff is, truth be told, as funereal as it gets."
It has a gossamer effect in fragrances. It adds just a hint of mystery or macabre.
Iris is an "extract of the root of the iris plant". It is also known as orris. There is plenty of debate about what makes an iris. To put it simply....a village of notes and science creates a iris scent.
My personal favorite iris scent is Frederic Malle's Iris Poudre. Many would argue that it does not really capture an iris feeling. I get the diaphanous powdery goodness in the drydown. So delicate and enchanting.
Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist is considered the benchmark of all iris fragrances. Luca Turin states that Uncle Serge insisted that the perfumer, Maurice Roucel, go "balls to the walls" with iris. Turin describes it as the most sinister of all the iris scents. It is not dark but ethereal.
Other Iris Fragrances:
Chanel's 28 La Pausa: a more green soapy iris with a vetiver drydown
Chanel 31 Rue Cambon: earthy iris with a amber drydown.
L'Artisan Bois Farine: I get more peanut butter and heliotrope...but there is iris peeking through.
Chanel 18 and 19
Le Labo Iris 39
Guerlain's Iris Ganache
Acqua di Parma Iris Nobile: Almost candied iris with a box green. Detect a bit of anise.
The Different Company Bois d'Iris: A more floral iris with anise, dry grass and woods.
DKNY Delicious Night
Prada Infusion D'Iris
Thierry Mugler's Alien
What are your favorite iris fragrances? Please share them in the comments.
Also tell me what iris scents that I neglected to mention!
Quote: Luca Turin from Perfume The Guide by Tania "Tbone" Sanchez and Mr T.
Graphic Credit: Melanie Parker
Disclosure: I have purchased all three of my Iris Poudre bottles. Hardcore fan.
All samples sniffed at stores or through my makeupalley stash.