40 Days and 40 Nights of Fragrance Notes: Iris
What does the iris note smell like?
I think it smells rooty and slightly powder-like.
It can be confused with violets but it is less candied or green. It is more bitter, damp and earthy.
I have seen it described as carrot-like, papery, raw potatoes, woody, soapy,or plummy.
Mr Luca Turin describes iris more romantically and quite simply perfect. This is from his review of Frederic Malle's Iris Poudre in Perfume The Guide.
For the fragonerds it is located on page 205.
"Simply stated, the problem with iris-root smell is this: everyone loves its gray, nostalgic, romantic powderiness, but the stuff is, truth be told, as funereal as it gets."
It has a gossamer effect in fragrances. It adds just a hint of mystery or macabre.
Iris is an "extract of the root of the iris plant". It is also known as orris. There is plenty of debate about what makes an iris. To put it simply....a village of notes and science creates a iris scent.
My personal favorite iris scent is Frederic Malle's Iris Poudre. Many would argue that it does not really capture an iris feeling. I get the diaphanous powdery goodness in the drydown. So delicate and enchanting.
Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist is considered the benchmark of all iris fragrances. Luca Turin states that Uncle Serge insisted that the perfumer, Maurice Roucel, go "balls to the walls" with iris. Turin describes it as the most sinister of all the iris scents. It is not dark but ethereal.
Other Iris Fragrances:
Chanel's 28 La Pausa: a more green soapy iris with a vetiver drydown
Chanel 31 Rue Cambon: earthy iris with a amber drydown.
L'Artisan Bois Farine: I get more peanut butter and heliotrope...but there is iris peeking through.
CdG Zagorsk
Chanel 18 and 19
Le Labo Iris 39
Guerlain's Iris Ganache
Acqua di Parma Iris Nobile: Almost candied iris with a box green. Detect a bit of anise.
The Different Company Bois d'Iris: A more floral iris with anise, dry grass and woods.
DKNY Delicious Night
Hermes Hiris
Dior Homme
SMN Iris
Prada Infusion D'Iris
Thierry Mugler's Alien
What are your favorite iris fragrances? Please share them in the comments.
Also tell me what iris scents that I neglected to mention!
Reviewer: Annie
Quote: Luca Turin from Perfume The Guide by Tania "Tbone" Sanchez and Mr T.
Graphic Credit: Melanie Parker
Disclosure: I have purchased all three of my Iris Poudre bottles. Hardcore fan.
All samples sniffed at stores or through my makeupalley stash.
Labels: 40 days and 40 Nights of Fragrance Notes, Frederic Malle
posted by Annieytown @ 5:15 AM
7 Inspired Comments
7 Inspired Comments:
Serge Lutens Iris silver mist is my absolute favorite iris. I like the "balls to the walls" description. It is and it's fabulous. But my 2nd favorite is L'Artisan Iris pallida..it has the rooty goodness of ISM tempered with a lovely incense note that mellows it.
Great review, Annie!
Looking through my perfumes, I'm realizing that I have very little here that has a dominant iris note. I don't love iris unless it is that grapey-sweet type that actually smells more like the iris flower in a garden. I Profumi di Firenze Caterina de Medici has a good iris note.
My mother wears Bois Farine and Le Labo Iris; both are wonderful on her!
I also love Annick Goutal Heure Exquise... iris, Turkish rose, and sandalwood. Dusky glamour!
My favourite iris scents are Hermès Hiris, TDC Bois d'Iris, SL Iris Silver Mist, AG Heure Exquise, CdG Zagorsk and Guerlain Shalimar.
I've always had a fondness for irises. My father gave my mother a bouqet of irises on their first date, and she's loved them ever since -- so much that they give me Iris as a middle name :).
One of my favorite fragrances is Prada's Infusion d'Iris -- both the Eau de Parfum and the body wash gel. It's a lovely iris-based perfume that has interesting depths, but it's not overwhelming, so you can wear it on an everyday basis. It smells very crisp and competent and together to me, somehow. I wear it on days when I have to give important presentations at work.
I have Crabtree & Evelyn's Iris, it's so overwhelmingly soapy that I would have pegged it as something from the Clean line.
I used to think it was iris that I loved in Chanel's 31 Rue Cambon,but my sample of Violetta di Bosco just arrived and in the drydown they smell like sisters. I wonder if I've been in love with violet all along.
Great piece Annie! My favorite irises are Dior Homme and Serge Lutens Bas de Soie.
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