40 Days and 40 Nights of Fragrance Notes: Jasmine
This is a huge note to tackle in the series. Jasmine is a heady and dazzling fume. It is a white floral that has a hint of darkness. Jasmine can be ladylike and proper. It also can also be exotic, luscious and dangerous. Sometimes I think Jasmine can smell like a banana or the spray of a "not neutered", male, domestic cat. That fecal note can be "off putting".
Mandy Aftel describes jasmine as "rich and warm, heavy and fruity, intensely floral, it is nearly narcotic in its ability to seize the senses and the imagination. Its almost cloying sweetness gives way to a drier note as it evolves, but it has considerable tenacity, and it retains it warmth and depth all the way down to the drydown".
This quote comes from her book Essence and Alchemy. For the fragonerds it is located on page 111.
Patti insisted that no jasmine review could be complete without the nod to the legendary Patou's Joy. I attempt to appreciate Joy every few years. This is not a perfume for the faint hearted. This is a thug jasmine. Joy is all kinds of grand. It is greener and more animalistic. And by animalistic...I mean tomcat spray.
My favorite jasmine fragrance is from Serge Lutens. Sarrasins is a Gothic jasmine. The filmy, frothy jasmine is just heartbreakingly gorgeous. It is green with just a hint of a camphor(band aid) note. The dry down is a mix of leather and musky woods. It does not get enough fragonerd love.
Le Labo's Jasmin 17 was instant and mad love after the first sniff. The jasmine is clear, precise and razor sharp. The dry down is a puff of musk, amber and a creamy vanilla. Jasmin 17 is outrageously pretty.
Chanel's Gardenia is a prim and proper ladylike jasmine. The jasmine is airy, light, tinged with a violet greenness. It is also slightly fizzy like champagne.
Etat Libre d'Orange's Jasmin et Cigarette is a clean, pretty jasmine with a drydown of wet cigarettes. This might read as unappealing. Jasmin et Cigarette is just so damn cool. Twisted pretty.
Some Lovely Jasmine Fragrances
Jean Patou Joy
Serge Lutens Sarrasins
Serge Lutens A La Nuit
Chanel Gardenia
Different Company Jasmin de Nuit
Jo Malone White Jasmine and Mint
Annick Goutal Songes
Diptyque Olene
L'Artisan La Haie Fleurie
Keiko Mecheri Jasmine EDP
By Kilian Love and Tears
Bulgari's Jasmin Noir
Thierry Mugler Alien
Guerlain Samsara
Calvin Klein Obsession
Chantecaille Jasmin
Creed Jasmal
Creed Jasmin Imperatrice Eugenie
Creed Love in White
Creed Spring Flower
Creed Virgin Island Water
ELd'O Jasmin et Cigarette
YSL Cinema
Marc Jacobs Blush
Let us know your favorite jasmine fragrances are in the comments!
Also let me know what jasmine fragrances I neglected to mention in this post.
Reviewer: Annie
Disclosure: The products reviewed have been purchased or sniffed by the reviewer
Graphic Credit: Melanie Parker
12 Inspired Comments:
Lovely review for a difficult note, Annie! I'd like to give a nod to Chanel. Jasmine is incorporated in so many of their scents, and quality control is so important to Chanel, that they own their own jasmine fields.
I have loved Joy and then I lost my joy for Joy.
My bottle is now owned by a friend who appreciates it much more than I ever did!
Thanks to both Annie and Patti! I'm copying the list for things to try. I'm a lovah of Clive Christian X and Gucci Rush for the cheaper version.
And Patti, my thug of a Joy went to another home as well! lol
Chanel No.5 Eau Premiere and Estee Lauder Jasmine White Moss are two of my greatest loves in life. And, though not perfume exactly, the Oscar Blandi Olio di Jasmin line smells (and works) like pure heaven.
I nearly bought Joy a minute after the first spritz at Nordstrom, it was like being hit in the face with a big bunch of flowers loaded with buttery pollen. I'm glad I didn't, the sample they made smells like rose soap.
Aleta: Yes! Until recently I never really knew what jasmine smelled like, but I got a sample of Oscar Blandi Olio de Jasmin hair serum and I love it. I use it more for the scent than any effect it has on my hair. I've been looking for a perfume that smells like it, but I can't seem to find a jasmine perfume I like.
How nice to see YSL Cinema mentioned. One that never gets enough love . Even from me as I almost never wear it but when I do , think "why I am not wearing this more "? That said,it's not very jasmine on me.
I have such a love /hate with his note. I love it when it's white floral, creamy and pretty. That camphor or male cat is not the thing. So when I read something is jasmine, I always wonder which jasmine it will be ?
A big favorite is an unusual one - Intelligent Nutrients Jasmime Absolute. Tropical, strong,natural and just a very touch indolic.
Of the ones already mentioned I love SL A la Nuit and ELd'O Jasmin et Cigarette, other jasmine loves include AG Folavril, Chanel Coco and FM Le Parfum de Thérèse.
Yikes! Forgot two of my favourites with jasmine by Etro: Gomma and Palais Jamais.
My favorite - Kilian Love and Tears! Reminds me of the pre-reformulation Sung by Alfred Sung. I hear it's pretty bad now, so I've steered clear! There are rumors Duchaufour may create a jasmine for L'Artisan. I'll definitely be on that train! I also hear Lust by Gorilla Perfumes (LUSH) is a great jasmine.
I'm learning so much from this series. Love it!
I adore Lush's Gorilla Perfume in Lust. I have the solid. It's pretty much all jasmine. A luscious creamy floral jasmine scent, not cat pee jasmine. It's a great quality scent for the low low price. It reminds me of hot tropical nights in Maui (not just because I bought it there).
I absolutely love Bourbon French's Jasmine. Smells just like the jasmine I had outside my door at a former residence.
Oh I love the Oscar Blandi Olio di jasmin too! Les Bains du Marais huil de soin Jasmin smells similar. Also, I've had Vinci Rakos Sheer Jasmin recommended as close to the Oscar Blandi, although I've yet to try it.
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