40 Days and 40 Nights of Fragrance Notes: Woods

Into The Woods
By Patti F

It is impossible for me to begin a review of fragrances that have wood notes, without saying that it is impossible to find
even a few of my fragrances that don't have wood notes. From my freshest, lightest eaux, to my deepest, rich chypres and orientals,
woods are everywhere in the base of the fragrances that sit on my perfume shelves and trays. But there is a difference between fragrances that contain woodsy notes and true woodsy fragrances. I have plenty of the former, and not so many of the latter.

The most well-known wood notes in fragrances are sandalwood, cedarwood, pine, vetiver, cypress, patchouli, and exotics like cashmere woods, ebony, and rosewood. Just about any wood, bark, moss or root can be a wood note in fragrances. Oakmoss is considered part of the woods group of notes, but we've talked about oakmoss on its own (because I love chypres!) and you can find that review in the middle of our 40 in 40 series.

If I had to choose the best of the woods, I'd give that award to Guerlain's fabulous Guet-Apens. It was a limited edition release in 1999, and sold in so few stores and in such short supply that it was gone almost as soon as it was released. My bottle came from Neiman-Marcus. The stunning cobalt blue glass bottle holds the richest woodsy-ambery floral I've ever worn. Immediately bold and confident, Guet-Apens is about as big as they come, and about as big a woods scent as I can wear. Soft florals and a touch of sweetness keep the woods from becoming overpowering, and Guet sits on the edge of overpowering without going completely over. My bottle will last a lifetime because I can only wear one dab at a time. Guerlain re-released this scent several years later, changing the name to Attrape-Coeur. I've never smelled Attrape so I can't say if it is identical to Guet-Apens. Maybe you can help me out here.

Bond No. 9 offers its woodsiest scent in the gorgeous New Haarlem. Cedarwood is the main woods note here, with bergamot, patchouli, lavender, and a bit of coffee and vanilla for sweetness. It can be worn easily by either men or women, and it works well as a base for blending with other Bond scents. Chanel's Coco Mademoiselle is a vetiver-patchouli scent, a bit more tame in the elixir version that I own. What I like about Coco Mad is that it is as comfortable with jeans and a tee shirt as it is in elegant evening wear.

There can be no discussion of woodsy fragrances without mentioning (and honoring) the legendary Feminite Du Bois by Shiseido. I wore this fragrance for years. It always brings a smile to my face because it is the favorite of my good friend Patty. Launched in the early 90s, it was revolutionary in women's fragrances because it was so different from the huge florals of the decade before. Cedarwood is the dominant wood note in F du B. Its perfumer, Christopher Sheldrake, went on to work with Serge Lutens on his fragrance line, and the influence of Feminite Du Bois can be found in many Lutens scents.

Guerlain's Samsara, utterly and completely unwearable on me. On paper, this should actually be a signature scent for me, since it has notes of rose and violet with a sandalwood base. I've tried. Once in a while, I take out this little mini and sniff it just to be sure I haven't made a mistake in passing on it. I haven't. Samsara has a huge following, and was the beginning of Guerlain's leaving behind the famous "Guerlinade" base that linked most of its fragrances before the launch of Samsara.

I wore Christian Dior's Dolce Vita for years. I went through so many bottles of this that I can't even remember. It's a huge cedar-sandalwood scent with a bit of cinnamon. It's been discontinued and I think maybe it just seems a bit too dated to wear any more. The woods overpower just about every other note. Dior loves wood notes. You'll find them in every fragrance they've ever created, and with good presence at that.

Chanel's Bois Des Iles is one of the best woodsy fragrances, highly sought-after among perfume fanatics, and loved by both men and women. The signature jasmine of most of Chanels fragrances is combined with rose, and the rich base of sandalwood and vetiver are dark, lush, and warm.

Recent woodsy scents that I've added to my collection are L'Agent by Agent Provocateur (a devastatingly feminine floral with patchouli and sandalwood combined with velvety myrrh and incense,) John Varvatos (a TJMaxx discovery, a half ounce of pure parfum for $12.99!) which resembles Coco Mademoiselle so closely but is actually even prettier than the Chanel, and YSL Parisienne, which is a happy fruity floral blend which shares rose and violet notes with its big sister Paris, and blending patchouli, vetiver, and sandalwood in the base. I don't know why it took me so long to try it. Rose, violet, sandalwood, put these together and they are my favorite blend.

I'm showing you my mini of Grain De Folie by Nicky Verfaillie. It's a beautiful woods-based scent that combines almost all of the woods notes I've listed here, vetiver, patchouli, sandalwood, cedarwood, and oakmoss. If you know of this scent, we share a big secret. It is a beautiful floral in its heart, and perfectly blended with its woods. I've never seen a full bottle. That's a hint, dear reader.

Other fragrances in the woods category are Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Winter Delice and Aroma Allegoria Exaltant, 10 Corso Como, the fabulous Bois De Paradis by Parfums DelRae (and a favorite of mine when Ms. Blogdorf wears it,) Roberto Cavalli, and the luscious Black Cashmere by Donna Karan.

I can't possibly list all of the woods fragrances, so I am asking for a little help here! What are your favorite woodsy perfumes? Tell us!

Reviewer: Patti F
Photo Credit: Patti F
Disclaimer: All of the bottles in the photos were purchased by the writer, with the exception of Bond No. 9 New Haarlem which was a promotion bottle.