I think I know a little "something" about incense. I attended catholic school throughout my adolescence. Incense is equal parts comforting and terrifying. Sometimes it takes me back to disapproving nuns and long masses. Incense can smell dry, dark, resinous, earthy, grassy, rose-like with bursts of a slight lemon edge. There are many type of incenses used in fragrance.
Frankincense, also called olibanum, is an aromatic gum resin from trees of the burseraceous genus Boswellia, which occur in Asia and Africa.
Myrrh is a resin from a small spiny tree.
Labdanum is a dark resinous juice that exudes from various rockroses of the genus Cistus.
Opopanax, also called sweet myrrh, is an herb that produces a a yellow flower. A resin can "be extracted by cutting the plant at the base of a stem and sun-drying the juice that flows out". Very lavender-like.
Tolu Balsam is a resinous secretion that is known for its warm, mellow yet somewhat spicy scent.
Galbanum is an "aromatic gum resin, the product of certain umbelliferous Persian plant species. It occurs usually in hard or soft, irregular, more or less translucent and shining lumps, or occasionally in separate tears, of a light-brown, yellowish or greenish-yellow colour, and has a disagreeable, bitter taste, a peculiar, somewhat musky odour, an intense green scent".
Other incenses are:
Copal
Sandarac
Hyssop (spicy mint)
Camphor
Storax (slightly grassy)
Nag Champa
Picking the best of the incense genre is a difficult task. I would have to say that Armani's Bois d'Encens is the most exquisite. It is dry like a crisp fall leaf with this incredible sweetness. I wish a church smelled this good!
Etro's Messe de Minuit is the most realistic church fragrance. It smells exactly like the catacombs in the Canterbury Cathedral. There is a slightly damp basement/mausoleum vibe. It is interesting but hard to wear. L'Occitane's Labdanum is all kinds of sunlight and peppery incense smoke.
Of course, no incense post would be complete without a nod to the incense series from Comme des Garcons.
The notes for Kyoto are incense, cypress oil, coffee, teak wood, vetiver, patchouli, amber, everlasting flower and Virginia cedar. I have gone through two bottles of this fragrance. There is something very delicate about it.
Avignon's notes are Roman chamomile, cistus oil, elemi, incense, vanilla, patchouli, palisander, and ambrette seeds. I have a great love for the smell of ambrette. I get a musky concrete cloud.
Zagorsk notes are white incense, pine, pimento berries, hinoki wood, violet, cedar, iris and birch wood. This smells like forest floors with pencil shavings.
Jaisalmer's notes are cedar, vetiver, cardamom, incense, cinnamon, amber, benzoin, pimento berries, guaiac wood and pink pepper. This incense is very dry and crisp.
Ouarzazate's notes are incense, pepper, nutmeg, clary sage, wenge, musk, vanilla, labdanum absolut and kashmir wood. This is the only fume in the series that I do not own.
Some Incense Fragrances:
Guerlain Bois d'Armenie
Czech &Speake Frankincence & Myrrh
Monyette Paris
Tauer Perfumes L'Air du Desert Marocain
Armani Prive Bois d'Encens
Ormonde Jayne Tolu
Barbara Bui
Aesop Mystra
Serge Lutens La Myrrhe
Mathhew Williamson Collection: Incense
By Kilian Incense Oud
Comme des Garcons Avignon
Comme des Garcons Kyoto
Comme des Garcons Jaisalmer
Comme des Garcons Ouarzazate
Comme des Garcons Zagorsk
Comme des Garcons 2 EDP
Comme des Garcons x Monocle Hinoki
Costes Costes
L'Artisan Timbuktu
Parfums de Nicolai Sacrebleu
Estee Lauder Youth Dew
Donna Karan Black Cashmere: So damn good!!!!
Donna Karan Chaos
Serge Lutens Gris Clair
Keiko Mecheri Oliban
Miller et Bertaux Om
Frederic Malle Bois d'Orange
Regina Harris Frankincense & Myrrh Rose Maroc
10 Corso Como
Atelier Cologne Bois Blonds
CB I Hate Perfumes Fire from Heaven
Etro Messe de Minuit
Tauer Perfumes Incense Extreme
Norma Kamali Incense
Gucci Pout Homme
Amouage Tribute Attar
Amouage Epic Man
Heeley Cardinal
Demeter Myrrh
L'Occitane Labdanum
What are your favorite incense fragrances? Let us know in the comments.
Reviewer: Annie
Graphic Credit: Melanie Parker
Disclosure: All products were sniffed and purchased by the reviewer.
Quotes straight from Wikipedia.
I love, love, love Black Cashmere! Barbara Bui is on it's way to me (unsniffed) and I hope I find it to be as wonderful as others find it to be.
ReplyDeleteKim
hoping to find something that smells like Dragon's blood.. any thoughts anyone??
ReplyDeleteLately I've been really getting into Annick Goutal Les Orientalistes, all amazing.
ReplyDeleteWhat it is about Monyette Paris that reminds you of incense? I have a bottle of it, and I can't smell incense at all, I wish I could, because then maybe I'd actually use the stuff!
I'm new to this, could be way out there, but do you think Prada Homme Ambre Intense qualifies as an incense scent? I have only sniffed it once but all those Sundays in Mass came rushing back to me in that one sniff!
ReplyDeleteI have half a bottle left of the original Matthew Williamson Incense fragrance. I love it so much I almost hate to wear it, but luckily I like it most on very cold days, which we have very few of in Louisiana. Has anyone else smelled it?I keep trying to find something similiar but I can't for the life of me figure out what the notes are. My poor nine year old bottle isn't going to last much longer. It came in this awesome hot pink box, which has kept the scent from turning.
ReplyDeleteHi Annie, I like the idea of combining fragrance notes documented in the bible and have often combined Frankincense, Galbanum. These tend to be heady, so I don't use them every day. Some others are Myrrh, Nard, Storax, Labdanum, Cinnamon.
ReplyDeleteI love an old-timey fragrance... Elizabeth Arden's 5th Avenue. There is something timeless and classic about this one. It's a blend of magnolia, lilac,mandarin, peach, nutmeg, sandalwood and vanilla.
ReplyDeleteI just posted a comment on incense... it was meant to go elsewhere. Still 5th Ave. is a favorite scent.
ReplyDeleteFeel free to delete my comment that is not in keeping with your theme. :(
I recently bottle of YSL Nu, and love it! Beautiful incense scent.
ReplyDeleteI agree with kim. Black Cashmere is amazing!! I just went shopping with some of my girlies and im going back for tht one no doubt about it!!!
ReplyDeleteWhat an interesting, comprehensive review! Thank you, Annie. I have loved Youth-Dew forever but didn't know it fell into the incense category. My favorite layering combo is Youth-Dew Bath Oil with Avignon. Guess my nose was onto something!
ReplyDeleteBlack cashmere is divine.
ReplyDeleteLove this post! Love black cashmere. The old 70's fragrance "Bakir" is extremely resinous w/ myrrh and moss and spices.
ReplyDeleteAnnieytown,
ReplyDeleteFor the first time, I'm signing in just to compliment you on the monumental 40 Days and 40 Nights series. It's wonderful and most important, it's a very comprehensive and ORGANIZED series. I've seen very few like this around. Please keep it up.
Thank you!
RM
I ordered a sample of Kyoto from Luckyscent. Can anyone tell me if the 50mL bottle has a spray top or an open top?
ReplyDeleteAnnie ... Have you by chance done a Men's fragrance feature?
ReplyDelete