Deneuve Dupe? Le Labo Belle Du Soir

Le Labo for Anthropologie
By Patti F

Ms. Blogdorf and I love to make a quick stop in the Anthropologie store in Cleveland, on our way to visit the
gang for a day of shopping, lunching, shopping, sniffing new perfumes, trying on shoes, and chatting over coffee. We browse Anthropologie in search of any new fragrances, checking sale racks, and loving the decorator section of the store with its pretty dishes and lovely linens. A few months ago, on our little stop in the store, we discovered the brown bottles of Le Labo For Anthropologie perfumes. There were no blotter sticks or test strips in sight. We went to the register area to ask, but we were only given a little strip of cash register paper. Back to the display we went.

We sprayed all of the perfumes onto pieces of that register tape. I smelled mostly paper, but I knew immediately that these were all such lovely, thoughtful perfumes, well-blended, and made in the tradition of classic perfumery. They don't smell like any of the Le Labo that I have tried. We fell in love with them, and Ms. Blogdorf wisely caved on two of them right then and there. I was not so smart. I loved two of them but did not cave. I neglected to try them on my wrists. I should have, because then I would not have had to wait to make the most amazing discovery of all my perfume-loving years.

A week or so later, I was corresponding with a fragrance pal, and she told me she had ordered the Belle Du Soir from the Anthro website but she did not care much for it. I offered to buy it from her and we made our transaction and her bottle arrived quickly at my door. I sprayed on Belle. It was a remarkable moment of instant recognition! Belle Du Soir is DENEUVE! My most beloved perfume of all time, in this little brown bottle! I could not wait to find out
if indeed it was true. I sent a few samples to some other pals to see if they agreed, and they did. I wanted to know for sure, so I wrote to the Le Labo perfumers by contacting them on their website.

As I was waiting to hear from Le Labo, I bought another bottle of Belle from the Anthropologie website. Nobody at the actual store in Cleveland could tell us if these were going to be permanent offerings by Anthro, or if they would be gone when they sold out. At least now I had a backup. I wore it constantly for two solid weeks. Every time I put on Belle Du Soir, I was more and more convinced that the Le Labo perfumers had known the original Deneuve and had set out to recreate it.

When I finally heard from Le Labo, Monsieur Fabrice did not confirm or deny my suspicions, but they did appreciate my note, or so they said. They were happy to hear from a perfume lover who appreciates their fragrances. End of note.

The Anthropologie website shows "historically-inspired scents" in their description of Le Labo For Anthropologie. Here is a clip from their website description:
five historically inspired scents that pay tribute to the era of perfumery when artisans crafted small batches using the highest quality natural ingredients.

So, now that we know these are historically inspired, I told Ms. Blogdorf that we have to report to the BlogdorfGoodman readers about this remarkable discovery! Annie has written about Bouquet Blanc, the best lilac fragrance she and I have ever smelled. Lilac isn't even listed in the fragrance notes on the Anthropologie website. Chant De Bois is a gorgeous classic chypre in the tradition of the old revered Guerlains. It is a must-try for any oakmoss lovers. All of the Le Labo For Anthropologie are beautiful and worthy of trying in person if you're in an Anthropologie store. Do it soon and back up your loves with an extra bottle. And please, if you detect any similarity to other scents, please let us know.

Belle Du Soir and the other Le Labo For Anthropologie perfumes are EDP's in a two ounce bottle for about $62. Solid perfumes in cute little metal containers are also available for $28.

Photo Credit: Patti F
Review by Patti F

40 Days and 40 Nights of Fragrance Notes: Woods

Into The Woods
By Patti F

It is impossible for me to begin a review of fragrances that have wood notes, without saying that it is impossible to find
even a few of my fragrances that don't have wood notes. From my freshest, lightest eaux, to my deepest, rich chypres and orientals,
woods are everywhere in the base of the fragrances that sit on my perfume shelves and trays. But there is a difference between fragrances that contain woodsy notes and true woodsy fragrances. I have plenty of the former, and not so many of the latter.

The most well-known wood notes in fragrances are sandalwood, cedarwood, pine, vetiver, cypress, patchouli, and exotics like cashmere woods, ebony, and rosewood. Just about any wood, bark, moss or root can be a wood note in fragrances. Oakmoss is considered part of the woods group of notes, but we've talked about oakmoss on its own (because I love chypres!) and you can find that review in the middle of our 40 in 40 series.

If I had to choose the best of the woods, I'd give that award to Guerlain's fabulous Guet-Apens. It was a limited edition release in 1999, and sold in so few stores and in such short supply that it was gone almost as soon as it was released. My bottle came from Neiman-Marcus. The stunning cobalt blue glass bottle holds the richest woodsy-ambery floral I've ever worn. Immediately bold and confident, Guet-Apens is about as big as they come, and about as big a woods scent as I can wear. Soft florals and a touch of sweetness keep the woods from becoming overpowering, and Guet sits on the edge of overpowering without going completely over. My bottle will last a lifetime because I can only wear one dab at a time. Guerlain re-released this scent several years later, changing the name to Attrape-Coeur. I've never smelled Attrape so I can't say if it is identical to Guet-Apens. Maybe you can help me out here.

Bond No. 9 offers its woodsiest scent in the gorgeous New Haarlem. Cedarwood is the main woods note here, with bergamot, patchouli, lavender, and a bit of coffee and vanilla for sweetness. It can be worn easily by either men or women, and it works well as a base for blending with other Bond scents. Chanel's Coco Mademoiselle is a vetiver-patchouli scent, a bit more tame in the elixir version that I own. What I like about Coco Mad is that it is as comfortable with jeans and a tee shirt as it is in elegant evening wear.

There can be no discussion of woodsy fragrances without mentioning (and honoring) the legendary Feminite Du Bois by Shiseido. I wore this fragrance for years. It always brings a smile to my face because it is the favorite of my good friend Patty. Launched in the early 90s, it was revolutionary in women's fragrances because it was so different from the huge florals of the decade before. Cedarwood is the dominant wood note in F du B. Its perfumer, Christopher Sheldrake, went on to work with Serge Lutens on his fragrance line, and the influence of Feminite Du Bois can be found in many Lutens scents.

Guerlain's Samsara, utterly and completely unwearable on me. On paper, this should actually be a signature scent for me, since it has notes of rose and violet with a sandalwood base. I've tried. Once in a while, I take out this little mini and sniff it just to be sure I haven't made a mistake in passing on it. I haven't. Samsara has a huge following, and was the beginning of Guerlain's leaving behind the famous "Guerlinade" base that linked most of its fragrances before the launch of Samsara.

I wore Christian Dior's Dolce Vita for years. I went through so many bottles of this that I can't even remember. It's a huge cedar-sandalwood scent with a bit of cinnamon. It's been discontinued and I think maybe it just seems a bit too dated to wear any more. The woods overpower just about every other note. Dior loves wood notes. You'll find them in every fragrance they've ever created, and with good presence at that.

Chanel's Bois Des Iles is one of the best woodsy fragrances, highly sought-after among perfume fanatics, and loved by both men and women. The signature jasmine of most of Chanels fragrances is combined with rose, and the rich base of sandalwood and vetiver are dark, lush, and warm.

Recent woodsy scents that I've added to my collection are L'Agent by Agent Provocateur (a devastatingly feminine floral with patchouli and sandalwood combined with velvety myrrh and incense,) John Varvatos (a TJMaxx discovery, a half ounce of pure parfum for $12.99!) which resembles Coco Mademoiselle so closely but is actually even prettier than the Chanel, and YSL Parisienne, which is a happy fruity floral blend which shares rose and violet notes with its big sister Paris, and blending patchouli, vetiver, and sandalwood in the base. I don't know why it took me so long to try it. Rose, violet, sandalwood, put these together and they are my favorite blend.

I'm showing you my mini of Grain De Folie by Nicky Verfaillie. It's a beautiful woods-based scent that combines almost all of the woods notes I've listed here, vetiver, patchouli, sandalwood, cedarwood, and oakmoss. If you know of this scent, we share a big secret. It is a beautiful floral in its heart, and perfectly blended with its woods. I've never seen a full bottle. That's a hint, dear reader.

Other fragrances in the woods category are Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Winter Delice and Aroma Allegoria Exaltant, 10 Corso Como, the fabulous Bois De Paradis by Parfums DelRae (and a favorite of mine when Ms. Blogdorf wears it,) Roberto Cavalli, and the luscious Black Cashmere by Donna Karan.

I can't possibly list all of the woods fragrances, so I am asking for a little help here! What are your favorite woodsy perfumes? Tell us!

Reviewer: Patti F
Photo Credit: Patti F
Disclaimer: All of the bottles in the photos were purchased by the writer, with the exception of Bond No. 9 New Haarlem which was a promotion bottle.

40 Days and 40 Nights of Fragrance Notes: Cinnamon and Nutmeg

Cinnamon and Nutmeg
By Patti F

The husband can't cook. He can grill. Those are two entirely different things, of course. A Caveman should know how to cook meat over an open fire,
and he is good at that, for sure. But cooking, like as in pots and pans and an oven or a stove, no. His one attempt was a disaster. He told me he knew how to make the best Chicken Cacciatore I would ever taste in my life. I'm Italian, so I was skeptical, since my German-Irish-Native American husband hadn't even tasted Veal Parmigiana before we met. He told me what to buy at the grocery store and said he'd need a huge skillet because he was going to make a big batch of his masterpiece. I went to Macy's and bought a gorgeous Farberware nonstick skillet. Then I attempted to leave him alone in the kitchen. He kept calling me back, to ask for measuring spoons (who measures??) or the flour canister, and then he'd shoo me off so he could continue to concoct. I was not allowed to see him add his "secret ingredient" to whatever it was in that skillet.

Turns out, it was cinnamon. And lots of it. The cacciatore was inedible. My kitchen was a mess. He was proud. He hasn't made it since.
Oh, and the Farberware? Ruined, as he used a knife to cut the chicken in the skillet instead of cutting it before he started to cook.

So, whenever I see the little container of cinnamon in my spice cabinet, I get a little chuckle from it. I love the smell of cinnamon. It reminds me, not just of the Cacciatore debacle, but more pleasantly of so many pretty fragrances that I have. I like to wear cinnamon fragrances during the Winter holidays, because they bring to mind cooked apples, Thanksgiving desserts, and my favorite hot drink at Christmastime, Constant Comment tea. It's the only tea I like, and Christmas is the only time I drink it.

My favorite cinnamon fragrance has to be Estee Lauder's Youth-Dew. You have to hand it to Ms. Lauder, who "accidentally" spilled a bottle of this perfume in a department store where she was trying to arrange that the store would sell her fragrance. Ladies clamored around to find out what the fragrance was and to buy it. A legend was born! It is still a beautiful, exotic, rich scent, and deserving of all its praise over the years. I love seeing the younger women on the perfume chat clubs and blogs, discovering Youth-Dew and loving it. Lauder's other cinnamon fragrance, Cinnabar, was my own Grandmother's favorite perfume. Even to the end of her days, after being bathed by the aides in the nursing home where she lived, she would ask them to powder her with the Cinnabar dusting powder that I would give her as a gift every Christmas and Mothers' Day.

I have to wipe away a tear as I tell you about another cinnamon fragrance that I love. It seems that Forever21, the trendy and inexpensive clothing store, has opened in the former Takashimaya store on Fifth Avenue in New York City. Could these two retailers be more opposite one another? I don't think so. I remember so many lovely trips to Tak, as we fondly call it in our little NYC fragrance gang. The sixth floor was the city's oasis, with comfy sofas and tables carefully set with fragrant offerings and unusual cosmetic lines. Glass cabinets held fragrances that you couldn't find anywhere else. One wall was devoted to Fragonard. I chose one every time we visited. Murmure is the cinnamon offering from Fragonard, mysterious and warm, and unlike most of the other Fragonards which are based on florals. Murmure begins with a soft jasmine-rose combination, but the cinnamon is there right away, and develops more richly as it wears. Earthy notes of patchouli and iris are the base of this treasure. I'm sure that nobody who is shopping in Forever21 would even know the name Fragonard. I'm not going to dwell on the depressing here. I'll always remember the wonderful shopping and camaraderie of so many visits to Takashimaya. And I still have all of my Fragonard treasures and the other lovely perfumes I purchased there.

Down the street a bit, still standing strong and the benchmark for all things luxurious and beautiful, Bergdorf Goodman's fragrance department on The Beauty Floor is a charming area, well lit and bright with everything pretty. It is sectioned into little areas, almost like strolling through a lovely apartment. In one alcove, I found the Acqua Di Parma line of beautiful fragrances from Italy. At the time, Profumo was the only one which was being sold as a womens' scent. Herbal at first, with lavender, sage and cardamom, and moving into its heart of white florals, the cinnamon combines with clove and woods, oakmoss and frankincense, making this a most remarkable scent for either men or women. I've never found anything that compares.

My first nutmeg fragrance was a little bottle, a decant of a perfume that was being talked about with raves on all the chat boards and forums. It was Nanadebary. A friend sent me some to try, in a swap. I don't quite remember, but I think I sent her something Creed. As soon as I opened the bottle, I was enchanted. I'd never smelled nutmeg in a fragrance. I set aside the decant and ran to the computer to order a full bottle for myself. When it arrived, I was delighted at the feminine dressing-table bottle with the bulb atomizer. I used it often, but was dismayed to see my supply dwindling right before my eyes. Within months, all that remained in the bottle was a darkened, syrupy liquid. Where did my Nana go? Evidently it evaporated right out of that atomizer! Since then, the bottle has been changed to a regular pump spray, and I have not repurchased. I still have my decant. Nanadebary contains no florals that I can detect. It's a blend of foody spices, rich woods, and vanilla.

Bond No. 9 Harrods For Her is another beautiful nutmeg scent. Tuberose is the main floral in Harrods For Her, but its presence is soft and understated. Nutmeg combined with woods and leather, and a surprise of vetiver in the base, give this fragrance a slight unisex twist. Harrods For Her was created by the great perfumer Laurent Le Guernec. I have sung his praises here on Blogdorf many times. He's a genius with spice, a master of the unexpected.

Kilian fragrances offers a touch of cinnamon in its Back To Black Aphrodisiac. Created by Calice Becker, it contains a strong cherry pipe tobacco note as well as kitchen spices of cinnamon, cardamom, saffron and coriander, with a base of vetiver, patchouli and oakmoss. I admit that I don't understand Becker at all. Maybe that's a good thing. There are only a few Kilians that I have fallen in love with. My wallet thanks me.

The man has a few of his own nutmeg scents, including the fabulous Bleu de Chanel (I wear this too!) and Jazz by Yves Saint Laurent. I hope he doesn't get inspired to start cooking with nutmeg.

More cinnamon fragrances:
Fendi Theorema
Bond No. 9 Bleecker Street, Coney Island, and H.O.T Always
Joop! All About Eve (so great with the apple note!)
Guerlain Aroma Allegoria Exaltant
Shiseido Feminite du Bois
Caron Parfum Sacre
L'Artisan Tea For Two
Frederic Malle Musc Ravageur

More nutmeg fragrances:
Givenchy Organza
Dolce & Gabbana Sicily
Chanel No. 22
Dior J'Adore
Guerlain Love Is All
Cartier Panthere
Guerlain Vetiver

Do you love cinnamon and nutmeg as fragrance notes? Tell us which ones you love!

Reviewer: Patti F
Photo Credit: Patti F
Graphic Credit: Melanie Parker
Disclaimer: The fragrances in this review were photographed by the writer.
The fragrances in this review were either purchased by the writer or sampled by the writer or given to the writer
as gifts, with the exception of Nanadebary which she acquired in a swap.

40 Days and 40 Nights of Fragrance Notes: Lily Of The Valley

Lily of The Valley
by Patti F

My Grandpa (the Roman one, not the Sicilian) had a green thumb. I swear that he could plant a stone, and a week later he'd have a tree growing. He had a talent, legendary among the old neighborhood old-timers, to be able to graft branches from plum trees. He didn't talk much, but he showed his love in non-verbal ways. On Sundays, after dinner, he'd sit me down in the living room, give me a stick of Juicy-Fruit gum, and read the comics to me. He tended his flower beds with great pride and care, showing me in Springtime where the green leaves of his bulb annuals were popping through the ground next to their house. In the early Summers, he would place tiny, delicate bouquets of lily-of-the-valley in a whiskey shot glass, and set them on the windowsill in Grandma's kitchen. It was his little gesture of love for her, and it touched me deeply, even as a child. I knew what he was saying to her, without uttering a word. It was always her favorite flower.

It is impossible to begin any discussion on lily-of-the-valley without talking about Diorissimo by Christian Dior. Created in 1956 by Edmund Roudnitska, it is the standard by which all other lily-of-the-valley fragrances are judged. Of course, reformulations have happened over the years, and perfume lovers lament the changes and bid for vintage on ebay and swap teeny vials of the precious drops. I'm fortunate to have a bit of the original, in the aluminum bottle from Grasse, a gift from my Mom from one of her trips there. My other bottle, an eau de toilette spray, is lovely, to be sure, but they're not the same. It's about twelve years old. Diorissmo the original is a burst of complete joy. Rich, intense, but at the same time innocent and shy, the vintage Diorissimo laughs in the sunshine with its wearer. Nostalgic without being dated, it seems perfectly at ease right now. My eau de toilette version is much lighter, greener, lemony, and I sense jasmine and rose in the blend. It's still beautiful, but comparing the two is like this: imagine a trip to the Costume Institute at the Met. You're lucky because on that day you're allowed to see a vintage Dior suit. You scour ebay, find the same suit in a Vogue pattern, run to the best fabric store for the perfect textile, and throw all your tailoring skills into making the perfect garment. It's close, but it'll never be the same.

Every year, on May 1st, France celebrates the day in dedication to the lily-of-the-valley flower. It's traditional to give little bouquets to loved ones. Occasionally the great perfume house of Guerlain will offer a limited run of their Muguet fragrance, packaged in a different bottle every time. I found my bottle of Muguet on the Neiman Marcus website in 2003. It's an eau de toilette in an impossibly beautiful swirled, stoppered bottle. This Muguet is lighter than Diorissmo, more soliflore to my nose, and true to the flower. There's an edition this year, in a different bottle from what you see here. I like mine better.

It seems that the Italians love lily-of-the-valley (thinking again of my Grandparents!) because the flower takes center stage in two fragrances with similar names, both from Italy. Capri by Adrienne Vittadini and Caprissimo by Carthusia both feature lily-of-the-valley as their main event. Capri is the breeziest green floral with a hint of beachiness to recall the beautiful coastline of the island. The base is woodsy with a bit of light musk. Caprissimo is much deeper, with lilac and rose, and ending in the richest base of myrrh, musk, lush woods, and ambergris. While Capri is a walk in the Italian sunshine, Caprissimo is a stroll down a cobblestone street after a late evening stop at a local trattoria.

I Profumi di Firenze, another quality Italian perfumery, offers its lily-of-the-valley in the gorgeous Caterina de Medici. Combined with subtle rose and the signature iris of Florence, it is as regal and elegant as its namesake. I'm on my third bottle.

In 1993, Gucci presented its Eau De Gucci, created by master perfumer Michel Almairac (who did so many of my favorites!) -- it came and went much too quickly. This happy lily-of-the-valley fragrance seems so un-Gucci to me, when I think of the leather tradition of that company (we won't even talk about the logo bags.) Sparkling with bergamot and neroli and blended with notes of jasmine, tuberose, lilac and violet, Eau De Gucci dries down to a perfect vetiver-sandalwood base. The progression of notes is so logical, so subtle, with the lily-of-the-valley present from start to finish, it is one of my favorites, and I'm hoarding. It's completely satisfying, joyful, feminine, and should never have been discontinued.

Demi-Jour comes from Houbigant, one of the oldest French perfumeries. Few Houbigants have gained fame over the years, and we mostly think of Quelques Fleurs when we talk about Houbigant. Demi-Jour is a strange scent. It has such huge aldehydes on the top that I'd like to compare it to Chanel #22 as one of the aldehydiest perfumes ever created. If you can get past that, the lily-of-the-valley will reward you. Blended in the mid notes are violet, rose, heliotrope and orris, but they stay back and let the lily-of-the-valley have her starring role. Oakmoss in the base just makes me happy.

One of the most beautiful lily-of-the-valley fragrances I've ever found is Fleur De Fleurs by Nina Ricci. I remember the day I discovered it, shopping with my Mom and her lady friend in the huge Kaufmann's store in downtown Pittsburgh. One spray of the tester, and all three of us were buying. Lemony and green at first, the heart of white florals emerges with the lily-of-the-valley shining through the blend. The base contains sandalwood, civet, and musk. There has never been any fragrance quite like it. I have heard that Ricci recently re-launched Nina, but with reformulation, and I hope that if Fleur De Fleurs ever comes back, it'll be the original formula. My Mom still wears hers, and so do I. Sparingly.

Other fragrances based on the lily-of-the-valley are Santa Maria Novella's Muguetto, which is a true soliflore and as light and fleeting as they come. I wore this one for a short time, but it lasted on my skin a short time, and off it went to a more grateful owner. Laura Ashley used lily-of-the-valley in her beautiful No. 1 and Dilys, the latter being a favorite of both my Mom and my Grandma. Caron's Muguet De Bonheur isn't as happy as the name would indicate. I have a feeling my bottle was part of the massive reformulation going on at Caron. It is sharp and distracting. Annick Goutal has had a Muguet in the past, I'm just mentioning it here but I do not personally know that scent. I'm not much of a Goutal fan.

I would definitely be remiss if I did not mention the great Muguet Des Bois by Coty. It's still around, thank goodness. I am sure it has changed over the years, but it was always on my perfume tray when I was a young girl. Mom, Regina and I all shared a bottle, and we went through plenty of them. You can find it in the drugstores or discounters or perfume kiosks just about anywhere. Get one. It's cheap and it is what it is, which is a pretty, true lily-of-the-valley scent that'll put a smile on your face and won't lighten your wallet. That is, unless you have a desire for a more prestigious Muguet, whereupon you can call the Guerlain Boutique at Bergdorf Goodman and reserve your bottle of the 2011 Muguet, it'll set you back around $500 or so.

Do you love a lily-of-the-valley fragrance? And which ones do you know of that I did not know about or mention here in this review? Tell us all about them!

Reviewer: Patti F
Photos: Patti F
Graphic Credit: Melanie Parker
Disclaimer: The fragrances pictured above and mentioned in this review were all purchased by the reviewer, with the exception of the small gold Muguet bottle, that was a gift from her Mother.

40 Days and 40 Nights of Fragrance Reviews: Pepper

Pepper Patti
by Patti F

Along with shopping for perfumes and talking about perfumes and sharing perfumes with my perfume-loving friends, we have many other things in common. We love beautiful fashion, pretty jewelry, the latest fabulous cosmetics (lipsticks!) and then there are shoes. So, the conversation at lunch often turns to these other subjects in addition to fragrances. On our table at the Cleveland Gang gathering place (in front of the H&M Store) you'll see vials, bottles, and little boxes of fragrance samples sitting right there with our food court trays. Which leads me to just one other thing we have in common, food! So many of my fragrance friends are gourmet cooks. They know their food. They have access to great markets like Whole Foods (wish we had one here!) Trader Joes, and great fresh fish markets and the amazing West Side Market in Cleveland, full of the most delectable goodies, meats, cheeses, and produce. We absolutely love unusual spice notes in fragrances, cumin, coriander, rosemary, cinnamon, nutmeg, clove. These are not necessarily in fragrances that are known as gourmands, they often pop up in mysterious orientals, woodsy scents, and even lighthearted eaux and florals. The Cleveland Gang has been known to ditch the mall, pile into their cars, and head to Whole Foods for an afternoon of gourmet food shopping instead of the displays at Sephora, the perfume counters at Nordstrom, and the shoe racks at Saks. We choose foods over Choos.

I learned to cook at my Mother's side. We never had a pepper shaker at our house. All we had were fresh peppercorns, and several pepper grinders. We set one on the table at dinnertime. A touch of freshly ground black pepper is the magic in so many dishes, and added at table directly onto whatever's on the plate, its aroma entices even before the taste. Ask my sister, who carries a mini pepper grinder in her handbag. Just in case the restaurant doesn't have a pepper grinder!

Fragrances with the pepper note use black, pink, or white pepper. The note adds zest and spice, and it works especially well with rose scents. My beloved Mille Et Une Rose does not list pepper in the notes, but it's a peppery rose to me, fascinating, unusual, always full of pleasure. Bond No. 9 adds pink pepper to its light and breezy rose scent, Bryant Park. These two rose scents could not be more different from one another, and yet the pepper-rose combination makes the most of a mutual admiration. They play well together.

My latest peppery fragrance discovery came in a swap I arranged with a lovely lady. I don't remember what I sent to her. I had never tried Si Lolita by Lolita Lempicka, but I love the original and the quirky anise note it contains (not to mention the adorable bottle) and I was hoping I'd love it. And I do!
Si Lolita opens with the fresh pink pepper combined with gorgeous bergamot. It makes me happy right from the first sniff, quirky and fun, and again delivered in an adorable bottle. I wonder if the dots on the box are the pink peppercorns! Pretty florals follow, mostly sweet pea and heliotrope, in a base of amber, patchouli (not too much, I am glad to say) and tonka bean which gives the impression of vanilla, but not as sweet. The pepper resides through to the end, keeping the spark alive in the base notes. I wish I'd swapped for a larger bottle.

Opium by Yves Saint Laurent is a legend in the oriental fragrance group. With clove, pepper and myrrh, its spices and lush, resinous woods together with lily of the valley, rose, and jasmine created quite a stir when it was first launched. The tagline on the print ad (translated) read: For those who are addicted to Yves Saint Laurent." It was quickly changed from "are addicted to" to "adore" because the opium-as-drug connection was just too scandalous and edgy at the time. My how we've changed. Thankfully, Opium has not. It's still as dark, sophisticated, and beautiful as ever.

Theorema by Fendi, long gone and still so well-loved, combines pepper with orange notes, spices and woods. There's never been anything to compare. Theorema fans will do just about anything to get their hands on a dab or two. To think these were showing up on the shelves at TJMaxx!

In 2005, Clarins, the well-respected skincare company, launched the mother-and-daughter fragrances called Par Amour and Par Amour Toujours. Par Amour, the "Mother" scent, is another pepper-rose combination, sparkling with blackcurrant, warmed with vanilla and sandalwood, and absolutely beautiful. Nobody talks about either of these scents. Maybe because Clarins is not usually known for its fragrances. Both of them are sitting happily side-by-side (as they should be) on my perfume shelf. Daugher does not contain the pepper. Maybe she's just a bit too young for that right now.

Guerlain's "Love" series doesn't really deserve much attention. Most of them have been so unwearable on me that they're long gone from my collection, swapped out as quickly as I got them. But then there was With Love. This wild rose-pink pepper fragrance reminds me a bit of Mille, but it's lighter, fresher. The drydown of sandalwood is exquisite.

I love all of the Agent Provocateur scents. The most unusual of all of them, Eau Emotionelle, is a combination of cape snowbush (a wild rosemary from South Africa,) lie de vin (a red wine sauce? with shallots? and garlic?) pink pepper, white tea, and osmanthus. I get the winey note but not the garlic, thank goodness! Eau Emotionelle is actually a beautiful tea fragrance with fruity apricot notes from the osmanthus, and the snap of pink pepper. If I reach for this bottle, I'll wear it all week, it's just that good.

Rose combines with violet (and you know I love that) in the latest fragrance from Nanette Lepore, called Nanette. Soft florals are deepened with cedar and incense, and spiced with pink pepper. This is no cutesy-girly fragrance. Just like her beautiful garments, Nanette is growing up. She hasn't lost her vision, the signature style remains, with refinement, editing, and confidence. Ms. Blogdorf and I are proud of our hometown girl and her huge success in the fashion world, and in fragrances as well.

I'm going to teach Ms. Blogdorf how to cook. I'll be gifting her with her very own pepper grinder when we start our first lesson. She will probably sneak off to play in the perfumes. I'll let you know.

Do you have a favorite fragrance that has a pepper note in it? Tell us about it!

Disclaimer: All fragrances in the photos were purchased by the reviewer, with the exception of Si Lolita
which she obtained in a swap.
Reviewer: Patti F
Photo Credit: Patti F
Graphic Credit: Melanie Parker

40 Days and 40 Nights of Fragrance Notes: Fruit Salad

Fruit Salad
By Patti F

I'm not one of those perfume lovers who turns her nose up (pun intended!) at the mention of fruit notes in perfumes.
As a matter of fact, most perfumes have at least one fruit note. We've already talked about some of them, bergamot,neroli, and grapefruit, as well as peach, one of my personal favorites. Let's talk about more of them!

When I first visited the Bond No. 9 boutique on Madison Avenue, there were only 16 fragrances in the line, all of them sold in the clear star bottles or sold by the ounce from the urns, decanted into pretty spray bottles by the sales associates.
I spent an hour in the shop before choosing my very first Bond, So New York. I purchased an ounce of the fragrance and chose the prettiest clear cylindrical bottle with a gold honeycomb cap. I went through that ounce within a month, and then I bought the star bottle in the large size on a trip to Chicago. The Bond counter at Chicago's Saks store was brand new, and the SA's there were so happy to chat Bond! The notes in So New York are bergamot, cocoa, chocolate, espresso, patchouli, lily of the valley,
peony, musk, precious woods, a warm milk accord, and mirabelle, which is a plum. The mirabelle plum is a fruit note that isn't quite like the plums we eat from the grocery store, it has a florally presence, it's not juicy like other stone fruit notes.
Mirabelle is also used in Emporio Armani City Glam For Her, the famously fascinating Molinard Tendre Friandise, and
in Bath & Body Works Dark Kiss (one of my favorites from that fun store!)

I have to thank Tania Sanchez and Luca Turin for introducing me to Prescriptives Calyx - they rave about it in their books Perfumes The Guide and Perfumes A-Z. This luscious fragrance is based on the juicy guava and wearing it is nothing short of mouth-watering deliciousness. It's perfect for a hot Summer evening and lingers on the skin without turning bitter or too ripe. Even though Prescriptives is long gone from the department stores, you can still find Calyx, and for that I'm grateful.

A visit to the local perfume counter can produce plenty of produce. Here's a little walk through the fruit salad of notes available in some fragrance I own, some odd and interesting fruits used in perfumery that are a little out of the norm but nonetheless lovely, light, and fun:

Rhubarb: found in the breezy and youthful Bond No. 9 Bryant Park, and in Grain De Folie by Gres. If you have the Gres and you do not love it, I would give it a very grateful home.

Kumquat: found in the now-discontinued but beautifully feminine Style by Ralph Lauren

Apricot: found in Lancome's Tresor (one of my newest loves, even though it's not a new fragrance,) John Varvatos, and Chopard Wish Pink Diamond.

Raspberry: found in Guerlain's Insolence and My Insolence, even though these fragrances have little else in common. Raspberry is also found in the impossible-to-find Fabulous by Countess Jan Moran. I thank my friend Patty for sharing hers with me. I wish I had a vat of this gorgeous fragrance.

Yuzu: found in Remember Me by Dior (nobody remembers it) and Versace Bright Crystal (not pictured, I didn't like it enough to own it.)

Lychee: found in my beloved Miracle by Lancome, Coco Mademoiselle by Chanel, and the lovely limited edition Midnight Charm by Dior, which was a Holiday scent that I never understood because it seems so much more for a hot Summer day than the cold Winter holidays.

Pineapple: found in Lauren by Ralph Lauren. The standard for pineapple scents, at least it was before the reformulation. I have the pure parfum, a gift from the husband. It was his favorite scent back when he thought women only wore one fragrance for their entire lives. He does not think that any more. Pineapple is also found in Victoria's Secret Sexy Little Things Noir, Now & Forever by Joan Rivers, Vivienne Westwood's Libertine, and the very under-appreciated Live by J-Lo.

Dates: found in the gorgeous Saks En Rose by Bond No. 9 and the equally gorgeous MAC Air Of Style/Monogram. Both of these perfumes were created by Laurent LeGuernec - my favorite perfumer and absolute master of the unexpected.

Pear: found in Victoria's Secret Sexy Little Things Noir Tease (and how adorable is that bottle!) and also in Alchimie by Rochas.

From the most lighthearted and easygoing eaux to the most mysterious and dark woodsy orientals, fruit notes are everywhere in perfumery, and we love them all!

Can you think of other weird or unusual fruit notes in perfumes that you love? Tell us all about them!

Reviewer: Patti F AKA Cavewoman
Disclaimer: The perfumes mentioned in this article and in the photos were purchased by the reviewer, with the exception of two.
Ralph Lauren's Lauren parfum was a gift from her husband. Fabulous by Jan Moran was a gift from her friend Patty.
Graphic Credit: Melanie Parker

40 days and 40 Nights of Fragrance Notes: Oakmoss

Fragrance Note of the Day: Oakmoss
by Patti F

If there is any fragrance note that is a connecting thread among most of my perfumes, it's oakmoss. I know it immediately, as if recognizing
something familiar and welcome. Oakmoss appeared in my first grown-up perfumes when I was a teen, and oakmoss anchors the base of some
of my most beloved perfumes over the years, to this very day.

My parents took a trip to Monte Carlo when I was in college. Mom and the ladies took a day trip to the perfumeries of Grasse, while the menfolk hung out in the casinos. Mom brought back a set of five golden aluminum perfumers bottles for me. I had no idea what they were. She gave me a piece of yellow paper, on which her sales associate wrote down the names of the perfumes in those five bottles. The bottles had names, of course, but these were not the real names of what was inside. Five one-ounce bottles of pure parfum. I had perfume history in my hands. The lady had told my Mom that the perfumery store was not permitted to sell the perfumes by their real names, but she assured my Mom that these were the real thing. The names on that piece of paper are the names of the great legends of perfumery. Le Rendez-Vous was Miss Dior. It was my first chypre.

So much of my collection of perfumes have a base of oakmoss, and you probably know most of them, so I won't go on and on about the fabulousness of Mitsouko, or Paloma Picasso, or Cabochard, or Chanel #19. What I'd like to do is Show And Tell of some of the oakmoss fragrances that I have loved over the years, and still love, some unusual fragrances, chypres that have come and gone, some which remain.

Home from a second trip to Grasse, my Mom brought more perfumes. This time, Jolie Madame, Miss Balmain, Diorissimo, and a bottle labeled "Banjo" which was Bandit. I knew very little about Bandit, pre-internet of course, and could find little information about Piguet. I have found out that there is now a reformulation. How often we hear that word now, especially with the European Union ban on natural oakmoss.

I came home from college one Christmas to find a bottle of Cachet by Prince Matchabelli under the tree. This beautiful and sophisticated chypre in its graceful, twisted bottle, was my signature scent for the remainder of that year in school. Until, back from another trip, Mom brought me a bottle of Caleche. She had some European currency to use up before they came home, and in the Shannon Duty Free shop, she used her last currency to buy Caleche for me. We found out shortly after that, that Elizabeth Taylor wore Caleche. Good enough for both Mom and me! I still love its modern attitude, even though it is now 50 years old. Guy Robert, the perfumer, added rose for richness and jasmine for utter femininity. I always feel very womanly when I wear it.

A little apothecary in a nearby town was the source for my Crepe De Chine. The store was going out of business and all the perfumes were on sale. I think this had to be in the mid 70s. I knew by then that those bottles of Crepe De Chine were old and rare. I bought the remainder of the supply in that store, for an embarrassing low price. I used plenty of them. And this is what remains, two parfums and a sweet, old fashioned eau de toilette. Millot created Crepe De Chine in 1925 and my Mom wore it as a young woman. Jasmine, lilac, and ylang ylang are the flowers that sit between the top notes of bergamot and the exquisitely balanced base of oakmoss, patchouli, and vetiver.

Years before computers became commonplace in our homes and the internet would provide almost limitless information, we used to read magazines! Well, I still do! I can't even remember the magazine, but in the mid 80's it could have been Town & Country, or Mademoiselle. I noticed an ad in the back of the magazine, for a new perfume called Deneuve, and of course having no way to smell it before buying, I called the number and made the purchase. I remember distinctly that the company's address was 9 West 57th Street in New York. And to this day, every time I see that big red 9 on the sidewalk in front of the building, I think of my lucky moment when I saw the ad and made the purchase. Without a doubt, Deneuve is the most beautiful perfume I've ever smelled or worn. I have gone through so many bottles, large and small, I can't even count. I lavished it on and garnered the compliments over and over throughout the years. I never thought to hoard. But now, I do. What you see is what remains. To be honest, Long Lost Perfumes makes a pretty decent dupe, called Cannes. Buy yourself some Cannes, and put the bottle away for a few months before you try it. The longer it sits, the closer it gets to the original.
Deneuve is a masterpiece, a balance of beauty and charm. Sparkling with a touch of aldehyde in the initial notes, the floral blend includes lily of the valley, iris, rose, jasmine, violet, and orris. In the base, oakmoss, sandalwood, musk, and some reviews say there's civet in here too. I've never loved a fragrance more than I love Deneuve. I still wear it on special occasions and it still takes my breath away.

It took me three trips to the Guerlain counter at Saks Fifth Avenue in New York City to decide on my very first Guerlain. I can't remember them all, but I had narrowed it down to three. On the third trip I chose Parure. Now I know I chose perfectly. Parure is my favorite Guerlain, a fruity chypre with luscious plum and bergamot, white flowers, and the classic chypre base with a touch of amber and leather. It is similar to the more famous Mitsouko, without the peach, more rounded, greener, softer. It's a beauty. Grab it before it's gone forever, which may be very soon if not already.

The floral cannister you see holds a refill bottle of Guerlain Chant d'Aromes, another pretty chypre in an even prettier presentation. Armani For Women is a legend among perfume lovers, here and gone too soon. Spearmint is the green note in Armani, with white florals and narcissus. When I think of some of the other Armani scents that have been launched over the years, I want to yell at the King Of Greige, "Stop this stuff! Just bring back your first scent, Armani!"

Gianni Versace For Women is an intoxicating blend of florals and spices. I think I detect cinnamon and clove. This is another beautiful chypre that is no longer available but still very cherished by its fans. I recently was able to obtain a bottle for Ms. Blogdorf. I wanted to mark a very special birthday with a very special fragrance. She has loved it on me for years, and now she has her own bottle.

Champagne by Yves Saint Laurent is the only fragrance that my husband has ever asked me never to wear again. My bottle resides at my Mom's house. One day I came home from spending the day with her. She was wearing the Champagne (after all, we mustn't let it go to waste!) and the husband said to me, "I thought I asked you not to wear that perfume again!" Champagne is now called Yvresse. The champagne industry in France did not allow YSL to use the name, and bottles that bear the original name are very hard to come by. Mine is in good hands and quite safe.

I bought Apercu by Houbigant without even knowing what it smelled like, let alone knowing it was a chypre. I found it in a Neiman Marcus catalog. I called and had it sent to me, mainly because I like Houbigant's Quelques Fleurs, and I thought the bottle was so pretty. Little did I know I'd fall madly in love. With notes of cinnamon and clove, it resembles Gianni Versace, but it's more voluptuous and deep.

The husband has his own stash of oakmoss scents, including the best men's scent that Bond No. 9 has ever created, Great Jones. His bottle is signed by the owner of the company, to him, and is punctuated with her signature Swarovski jewel. He also wears Guerlain Vetiver, Chanel Egoiste (so appropriate, for those who know him) Platinum, and the newest in his collection, Marc Jacobs Bang! It is rapidly becoming one of my favorites on him. And how fun is that punched bottle!

I could go on and on about oakmoss. Its earthy, lusty scent reminds me of roasted chestnuts, a nutty quality that is indescribable but instantly recognizable. Some "modern chypres" are actually scents that are constructed without oakmoss, like Bond No. 9's masterful Chinatown, Agent Provocateur Eau Emotionelle, and Chanel's 31 Rue Cambon. I'm eager to try more modern chypres. But I am always eager to find oakmoss scents. My next purchase is already decided, Le Labo Chant De Bois, created for the Anthropologie fashion and home decor stores. Soon.

Do you love oakmoss in fragrances? Which one is your favorite? Tell us!

Reviewer: Patti F aka Cavewoman
Photos by Patti aka Cavewoman
Disclosure: All fragrances were either purchased by the author or given to her by her mother.
Graphic Credit: Melanie Parker