Love's always been my game...

A review of Lancôme Rouge in Love and Vernis in Love
By Jessica M and Angie W

Annie has been curious about Lancôme’s spring products for a while, so she when she shared her invitation to Lancôme’s launch of its new Rouge in Love (lipsticks) and Vernis in Love (nail polish) lines, we were happy to attend the party and report back to her.

Lancôme held its event at the jewelry boutique of cult designer Solange Azagury-Partridge on Madison Avenue in Manhattan. The shop is a gorgeous little space, like a combination of Aladdin’s cave and a private nightclub from the 1970s. It has red walls studded with tiny crystals, a rainbow-patterned carpet, and shadowboxes and vitrines displaying colorful, unusual pieces of jewelry. Showstoppers include the Zodiac inspired ring collection; Angie had her eye on an white enamel Aries ram’s head ring. Jessica couldn’t take her eyes off a glamour-Goth ring of tiny white-gold “bones” surrounding a shimmery, diamond encrusted skull.

Between admiring the gems, sipping complimentary champagne, and nibbling caviar hors d’oeuvres, we were offered lipstick applications by Lancôme makeup artists who chose colors for us. Lancôme has divided the colors into three categories: Jolis Matins (M) for classic daytime wear, Boudoir Time (B) for trendier looks, and Tonight is My Night (N) for glamorous evenings out.

Angie was dressed up in Rouge Valentine, a classic blue-red pin-up shade (185N). She was also intrigued by Cocoa Couture (292N, pictured), a deep, chocolate wine shade that would have suited Theda Bara, and Midnight Rose (377N, pictured), a vibrant fuschia that will look gorgeous for spring and summer.

Meanwhile, Jessica was matched with Roses in Love (353M, pictured). Its muted-bright medium pink brings a fresh glow to the face, so she’ll be wearing it well into 2012!

Rouge in Love’s colors appear matte in the tube, but they apply with a silky finish and a slight sheen. Their texture feels like a lip balm and the color has terrific, even coverage. The packaging is a little bit contemporary and a little bit retro: the matte silver cap has a line of red “stitching” running down the back, like the seam of a stocking!

Lancôme also gifted its guests with free Vernis in Love manicures at this party. Angie gravitated towards Vernis in Love in Rose Thé (350M) a muted, brownish pink, while Jessica fell for Rose Plumetis (300M, pictured), a cool-toned rosebud pink with a creme finish. Angie also admired Madame Tulipe (179M), a deep reddish wine, and many women at the event adored Rose Pitimini (343B), a vibrant cotton candy pink. The polishes apply smoothly and easily, thanks to a specially grooved and tapered brush, and two coats give full coverage that lasts for days.

Overall, the Solange boutique was the perfect setting for trying Lancôme’s romantic, lushly colored new lipsticks and polishes. Have you seen Rouge in Love or Vernis in Love in person yet? Have you found any favorite shades for this spring? Feel free to share in the comments!

Lancôme Rouge in Love ($25) is available at the Lancôme website and Lancôme counters. Vernis in Rouge ($15) is currently exclusive to Nordstrom and the Lancôme website; it will reach all Lancôme counters in May 2012.

Title: lyrics from “Falling in Love Again,” performed by Marlene Dietrich.
Photographs by Jessica M and Angie W for Blogdorf Goodman; ads courtesy of Lancôme.
Disclaimer: products were offered by Lancôme for review

Kiss Me, Kate

A review of Kate Spade Supercalifragilipstick
By Jessica M and Angie W

Poppy King, the Lipstick Queen, is sharing her talent and knowledge in several collaborations this year. She has created a signature lipstick for J. Crew, a range of seven lipsticks for the Boots no. 7 makeup line (soon available in the U.S.!), and a set of four lippies for the design house Kate Spade.

The four shades in Poppy’s “Supercalifragilipstick” line for Kate Spade are Pop Art Pink, Fuchsia Fete, Bashful Blush, and Adventurous Red. They all strike a nice balance between classic and trendy, just like Kate Spade’s clothing and accessories.

Angie has been wearing Bashful Blush, a versatile "your lips but better" shade. This is the perfect color for anyone who wants a muted, slightly brownish pink for daytime wear. It goes on with just the right amount of pigment and a subtle sheen, right out of the tube. It looks especially beautiful with Angie’s coloring: she is a pale brunette with blue-gray eyes.

Jessica has been trying out Pop Art Pink, a richly pigmented shade that looks almost hot-pink in the tube. It can be dabbed onto the lips and patted in with a fingertip for a sheerer look, or applied in a stronger swipe for bolder color. Jessica, who has dark brown hair, brown eyes, and pale skin, has been complementing Pop Art Pink with a little bit of rosy blush.

Thanks to Poppy King’s expertise in lipstick formulas, Supercalifragilipstick has a creamy texture and good staying power. Last but not least, its packaging has a fun mechanism: you press the top down gently, instead of pulling it, and then the tube pops open by itself! The swivel-up section is marked “PUCKER UP,” which makes us smile...all the better for applying lipstick.

Supercalifragilipstick will be released in early September and will sell for $24 at Kate Spade stores and the Kate Spade website.

Image: Kate Spade Fall/Winter 2011 ad campaign featuring Bryce Dallas Howard, via Storemags.com.
Product photographs by Jessica and Angie.
Disclaimer: Samples were provided for review.

(Many thanks to the one and only Poppy for sharing this new product with us!)

40 Days and 40 Nights of Fragrance Notes: Fig

The Sweetest Fig by Angie W.

Figs, ugh. Before I developed an appreciation for fig fragrances, my only point of reference for figs was the disappointment of being a kid asked by a well-meaning adult if I’d like cookies and then the deflating moment of being handed a plate of Fig Newtons. Come on, no Oreos? No Girl Scout cookies? So the thought of fig used to conjure up memories of sulking over gritty, dry cookies, not a pleasant thing. But I began a love affair with fig fragrance when I started seriously exploring perfume about ten years ago. I’d just met several wonderful fragrance fanatics through the Makeup Alley Web site’s chat boards and in addition to enjoying daily online conversations about perfume, we began periodically meeting in New York to explore fragrance together. As I sniffered literally hundreds of perfumes, I found myself constantly drawn to a fig scents. The following are a few of my absolute favorites.

L’Artisan perfumers’ Premiere Figuier was one of the first and most lovely fig perfumes I discovered. Premiere Figuier was the company’s original exploration of the fig note, focusing on the fig’s leaf and adding notes of almond milk, coconut, and sandalwood. The name means “first fig tree” and was created by Olivia Giacobetti who intended for the scent to recreate the actual fig tree’s many elements. I personally adore anything with galbanum, and Premiere Fig adds this spicy green note to this wonderful scent.

L’Artisan next developed Premier Figuier Extrême which, according to L’Artisan’s Web site, is meant to recall ‘ripe figs drenched in Mediterranean sunlight’ and is a more intense version of Premiere Figuier. This scent relies much more on woody notes such as gorse, sandalwood, and stone pine. I find this to be a heavy, dark, sweet scent that is wonderful in spring and fall but perhaps a bit heavy for warm weather.

The idea of warm summer days brings me to my next favorite fig scent, Diptyqe’s Philosykos, also created by Olivia Giacobetti who designed the original L’Artisan fig scent. This fragrance is very distinctive from both L’Artisan creations because it is much lighter, fresher, and greener. I definitely get much more of the fig leaves from this scent and find that it’s the most wearable of all the fig scents I’ve tried because it is so fresh and doesn’t get overly sweet and cloying as some of the heavier fig scents can. Philosykos is also available in a lotion and shower gel (which can be bought in an adorable travel size duo) and I highly recommend both for a wonderful pick-me-up during hot summer months.

Claus Porto Rivale is an absolutely sparkling scent that comes in liquid hand soap and a bath soap. This is a mix of fig and grapefruit with the usual divine packaging Claus Porto is know for and makes a chic addition to any bathroom. Tip: if you live in NYC, Lafco hosts a Friday afternoon warehouse sale in Soho where you can score Claus Porto for up to 50% off! These hours may change at any given time, but most weekends the sale occurs on Fridays from 10-6pm at161 6th Avenue (btw Spring & Van Dam St). Happy shopping, fig lovers!

Some fig scents to try:

Diptyqe Philosykos
L’Artisan Premiere Figuier
L’Artisan Premier Figuier Extrême
Hermes Un Jardin en Mediterranee
Marc Jacobs for Men
Thierry Mugler Womanity
Acqua di Parma Blu Mediterraneo Fico de Amalfi
Annick Goutal Ninfeo Mio
Fresh Fig Apricot
CB I Hate Perfume Revelation
Miller Harris Figue Amere
Cielo by Napa Valley

Books and Poems Featuring Fig…for Inspiration!

The Sweetest Fig by Chris Van Allsburg
Figs by D.H. Lawrence
The First Fig by Edna St. Vincent Millay

Reviewer: Angie W
Graphic Credit: Melanie Parker
Sources: L’Artisan corporate Web site, Bois de Jasmin and Lucky Scent for note research.
Disclosure: The perfumes mentioned in this post were purchased, received as gifts, or sampled in stores by the reviewer.
Photo Credits: Luckyscent and Amazon

I just met a girl named Blue Jean

Lipstick Queen Jean Queen Lipstick and Lip Gloss
A review by Angie W and Jessica M

Jean Queen is the latest stroke of genius – or “jean-ius” – from Poppy King and Lipstick Queen: a set of matching lipstick and lip gloss designed to complement denim and other casual looks. Poppy says, "I was inspired by downtown's urban-chic style to create Jean Queen. Like New York, it teams the pretty with the tough." As usual, we couldn’t wait to try these new products and tell Annie and Blogdorf Goodman about them.



We’re happy to report that the Jean Queen shade is about as universal as a lip color can be. It’s a neutral peachy pink that would flatter any skin tone we can imagine; it falls midway between Lipstick Queen’s Saint Pink and Saint Coral. It’s incredibly easy to wear, because it gently warms up the face without looking too bright. Both the lipstick and the gloss are sheer, but they still have enough color to be flattering and noticeable in a “your lips, but better” way.

Jean Queen gloss is contained in plastic squeeze-tube with a brush applicator (like Lipstick Queen Fired Up), and it's formulated to stay put on your mouth, instead of sliding away within minutes. The lipstick is a moisturizing formula (similar to Lipstick Queen Medieval) that doesn’t even need lip balm underneath. It has a healthy-looking sheen without any shimmer or frost. (Our dear friend Cavewoman, who recently bought her own Jean Queen set, had one request: she wishes that this shade was also available in a second, “Sinner”-like lipstick with a matte texture.)

Lipstick Queen’s packaging for Jean Queen is perfect, as usual. The lip gloss cap and the lipstick tube are both deep, shiny blue-jeans blue, and the cardboard box and backing are printed to look like actual denim with stitching. Ironically, neither of us ever wears jeans. But we’re both trying to add a little variety to our all-black New York “uniforms” this fall: Angie is looking at tailored navy and cobalt pieces and has already received endless complements on her new navy Jil Sander trench coat, and Jessica is keeping an eye out for soft scarves and feminine cardigans in rosy-pink tones. Jean Queen would fit into either of our updated color schemes.

And, even if we don’t own jeans ourselves, we can appreciate them for being casual but classic, and totally versatile. In this way, no matter what the rest of you is wearing, Jean Queen really is the cosmetics equivalent of jeans. If you're shopping for fall basics, Jean Queen would be the ideal choice for a daytime lipstick or gloss that will take you anywhere.

Lipstick Queen's Jean Queen lipstick and lip gloss ($18 each) are available at Barneys, Space NK, Henri Bendel, and the Lipstick Queen website, http://www.lipstickqueen.com .

Disclaimer: press samples were provided by Lipstick Queen
Title lyric: David Bowie
Images: product photos by Jessica M; “Teenage Girls Wearing Blue Jeans,” Nina Leen for LIFE magazine, 1944

My Alchemical Romance

ThreeASFOUR Fall/Winter 2010 Collection
by Jessica M

The inspiration: For this collection, ThreeASFOUR’s designers (Gabi
Asfour, Angela Donhauser, and Adi Gil) immersed themselves in the
history and imagery of alchemical science. They incorporated symbols
from the ancient cultures that practiced alchemy, and they worked with
materials that resembled ordinary metals (copper, lead) being
transformed into more precious substances (gold, silver).

How to get the look: Makeup artist Andrea Helgadottir (using MAC
cosmetics), hair stylist Ashley Javier (owner of the intimate salon
Parlor), and CND (formerly known as Creative Nail Design) collaborated
with the designers by using alchemical motifs and otherworldly contours.

Face: Helgadottir’s team smoothed out the models’ faces with MAC
Studio Sculpt Foundation for a clean background to the rest of the
makeup.
Eyes: The eyes were the focus of this look. Inspired by the
designers’ interest in ancient Egyptian art and culture, Helgadottir
devised an outlined, winged eye. She and her team of artists lined
and filled in this graphic shape with Fluidline gel eyeliner in
Blacktrack and painted two fine lines beneath the left eye with a
brush such as MAC’s #311.

Lips: The appropriately-named Myth lipstick was used for a pale,
satin-finish mouth.

Hair: Ashley Javier created a “modern flapper” style. After giving
volume to the hair with Kérastase Double Force hairspray and crimping
it throughout with a R-Session iron, he flipped it to one side and
gathered it in a low, sculptural bun, fixed with just a few hairpins.
An old-fashioned hairnet was placed over the model’s head so that
contained the hair for a smooth, fluid look, while it also functioned
as a veil over the model’s face. A few wavy tendrils echoed the
serpentine lines of the collection’s garments.

Nails: CND crafted custom-made press-on nails for the ThreeASFOUR
models to wear. Playing on the clothing’s contrasts of rubberized and
metallic materials, these nails were two-tone: they had matte black
bases and sparkling tips of deep-toned blue, bronze, or green.
Magical!

Tis Almost Fairy Time

Isaac Mizrahi Winter ‘10
By Angie W


The Inspiration: An Upper East side lady goes on a camping trip
(apparently without a comb)!
Val Garland, lead artist, told us that Isaac wanted the models to look
like fairies in a winter wonderland. She gave the models’ faces the look
of a frosty, blank canvas with no blush, no contouring, just a matte
face with a tiny bit of shine at the cheeks.



How to Get the Look:
The Eyes and Face: Very little product was applied and practically no
color. Vanilla eye shadow was applied and no mascara was used. Select
Cover Up concealer and Care Blend Oil were applied over the eyes,
lashes, and brows to “pale them out” and give the feeling of being lost
in a snow storm. MAC Pearl CCB was applied to cheeks for a bare hint of
shine.

Lips: A frozen rose shade was created by first using Naked lip liner
and then topping it with Tenderling blush.

The Nails: Kim D’Amato, Founder of Priti polish created the nail look.
Priti is a non-toxic polish line and all shades are named for flowers
and trees. For Isaac's look, Kim told us she related the nail color to
Isaac's makeup concept of a woman who had been out in cold, freezing
weather. Kim first applied 2 coats of Paper Bark Maple and then added a
matte top coat to give a frozen look to the nails.

The Hair: Hair was mussed, wild, and feral! The stylist warned us not
to take this look too far at home!

Credit: Angie W and Jessica M for Blogdorf Goodman

Once upon a runway…

Sophie Theallet Fall/Winter 2010 Collection
by Jessica M

The inspiration: Sophie Theallet took a “fairy tale” approach to this
collection. She imagined a farm girl who travels to the city, where
she becomes sophisticated and stylish. The collection’s designs, from
floral dirndl skirts to graceful evening gowns in shimmering neutrals,
documented her fantasy transformation from a milkmaid into an urban
princess.

How to get the look: Renowned makeup artist Stephane Marais, using
MAC cosmetics, created an innocent, romantic look. The models were
given a fresh-faced appearance with a sophisticated finish, to suit
the “peasant-to-princess” theme of Theallet’s collection.

Face: Gina Bettelli, a senior artist for MAC, explained that models’
faces had been kept simple and clean. Face and Body foundation was
used sparingly, where needed, and cheeks were flushed with a mixture
of two Blushcremes, Posey and Laid Back.

Eyes: The models’ eyes were lined with Stripdown Lip Pencil around the
eye socket. Lids were given a sheer, shimmering coat of Pro Studio
Finish Face Powder in Gold and loose Iridescent Powder in Silver Dusk,
mixed together with Mixing Medium/Water Base. A few touches of
Penultimate Brow Marker defined the brows.

Lips: Amorous lipstick was pressed onto the mouth with the fingertip.

Hair: A team of stylists, working with Antoinette Beenders, used
Aveda products for a flowing, tousled style. Models’ hair was prepped
with Pure Abundance Volumizing Tonic, blow dried, and further
thickened with Pure Abundance Hair Potion. The upper sections of the
hair were back-combed and gathered into a loose, low ponytail; the
lower hair was twisted around the ponytail, bringing it to the side.
The style was fixed with Control Force Hair Spray (new for June 2010)
and Air Control Hair Spray.

Credit: Jessica M and Angie W for Blogdorf Goodman

Mudhoney

Chris Benz Fall/Winter 2010 Collection
By Jessica M and Angie W

The Inspiration: Chris Benz reminisced about his Seattle background
and the girls he knew in school. He imagined spirited, rebellious
girls misbehaving and being sent on an “Outward Bound” program for
some rehabilitation, but wearing their fancy clothes in the middle of
the wilderness.

How to get the look: Makeup artist Daniel Martin, who is also a
Seattle native, thought back to the brown lipstick and matte makeup of
the 1990s “grunge” era. He revisited 90s-style brown lipstick, using
newer, sheer coverage to make it more contemporary. For the face, he
chose warm shades that worked with the intense oranges and browns in
Benz’s collection, and he created a dark, rocker-ish eye look for the
“experimental” Benz girl. (Unless otherwise noted, all products were
by Lancôme.)

Face: Models’ faces were lightly enhanced with Photôgenic Lumessence
foundation and Shu Uemura translucent powder, and their cheeks were
brushed with Blush Subtil in Cappucine.

Lips: Martin led his team in a three-step lip look. Le Crayon Poudre
brow pencil in Sable was used to fill the upper lip and the corners of
the lower lip. Matte lipstick in a chocolate-brown shade from the
Fall 2010 Lancôme collection (still unnamed) was applied to the lower
lip, pulling the liner inwards from the corners. A dab of Juicy Tubes
gloss in Touched By Light highlighted the lower lip.

Eyes: Eyelids were coated with a layer of a new crème-gel eye shadow
that will be launched in Fall 2010: this glittery black shade has a
working name of “Caviar Sparkle.” The insides of lower lids were
lined with Le Stylo waterproof eyeliner in Noir.

Nails: Manicurists applied two coats of Sweet Nude, a creamy
peachy-pink that will released by Lancôme later this year.

Hair: Head stylist John Ruidant created hair with a roughed-up feel,
to complement the textures of the clothing in Benz’s collection. He
separated the hair into two sections. The lower section was braided
in an angled French braid across the back of the head, with a ponytail
looped back up to cover part of the braid. The hair on the crown of
the head was twisted, knotted, and looped for a haphazard look.
Ruidant and his stylists used two Redken products: Fabricate 03
Heat-Active Texturizer and Workforce 09 Flexible Volumizing Spray.

Credit: Jessica M and Angie W for Blogdorf Goodman

Chelsea Girls

Erin Fetherston Fall/Winter 2010 Collection
by Jessica M

The inspiration: Fetherston’s “muse” for her fall/winter line was
Nico, the timelessly chic vocalist for The Velvet Underground. The
collection of 1970s-influenced outfits included flowing chiffon
dresses worn with high boots, tailored jackets, velvet shorts, and
slim, flared pants in a palette of ivory, metallic bronze, lilac, and
occasional accents of bright orange.

How to get the look: The models were given identical, Nico-inspired
styles with long, straight hair and bangs (similar to the designer’s
own cut), and their makeup was an impression of flushed cheeks,
stained lips, and glowing skin. The look was edgy but girlish,
suiting the bohemian style of the clothing.

Face: Lucia Pica and her team of MAC makeup artists began by
massaging MAC Care Blends Essential Oils into the models’ faces. They
lightly applied Select Cover-Up concealer and Mineralize Satinfinish
pressed powder where needed. They used Fearless lipstick (a new shade
for Fall 2010) on the models’ cheeks, letting the lipstick’s oils give
the skin a slight tint and glow. Then they rubbed a bit of thick
moisturizer onto the cheekbones for added luminosity; products spotted
on the makeup tables included Weleda Skin Food, Embryolisse Lait-Crème
Concentré, and Lucas Papaw Ointment.

Lips: Fearless was also used on the lips, dabbed onto the mouth with
the point of the lipstick and blended with a fingertip. Its rich
color flattered a range of skin-tones.

Eyes: Pica instructed her team to apply MAC Cocochino lipstick
(another Fall shade) to the models’ eyelids, working it across the
lids with a small blending brush for a wash of color and a shiny
texture. A tiny amount of lip balm (such as Kiehl’s Lip Balm #1) was
pressed into the inner corner of the eye for a highlighting effect.
Mascara was skipped, in order not to overdo the look.

Hair: Odile Gilbert and a team of stylists used MoroccanOil products
to give the models’ hair a smooth, full look. They blow-dried the
hair straight, using Hydrating Styling Cream, attached bang extensions
(also blow-dried for fullness), and fixed the style in place with a
misting of Luminous Hair Spray (to be released in March/April 2010).
Small amounts of Moroccanoil Treatment (on the ends) and Glimmer Shine
Spray added a healthy gleam.

Credit: Jessica M and Angie W for Blogdorf Goodman

Lady-like with an Edge

Carolina Herrera Winter ’10 Collection
By Angie W

The Inspiration: The makeup look, designed and executed by MAC artists, was created to resonate with Herrera’s rich and opulent collection. The look centered on rich wines and aubergines blended over the eye for a smoky purple eye. Artists referred to the look as a 70’s style, with a heavy application of several shades all over the eye, reminiscent of Biba’s palette of rich purples.

The Look:

Eyes: This look was ALL about the eyes. Five shades of purple were used to create the look. First, Night Moth (a lip pencil!) was applied all around the eye w/focus on the crease/lower orbit of the eye. Then Fig, Vibrant Gray, Indian Ink, and My Dark Magic were applied and blended.


Lips: The lips were kept very subdued so that the eyes took center stage. Subtle Romance Gloss was lightly applied.

How to Get the Look at Home:
Fatima Thomas, Senior Artist for the MAC Pro team, explained how to create a more user friendly look that readers can easily do at home. Instead of using Night Moth (which could irritate some people’s eyes since it’s a lip product w/red pigment) try using Prunella. Apply Prunella all around the eye (lining top and lower lids) and create a line that traces the upper eye socket, then blend it out so it’s diffused and barely there. Then use Sketch shadow and trace over where the Prunella pencil was applied. This adds richness and depth.

Next, use MAC pigment in Pink Opal to add a little sheen on the lids and also place it at the inner corner of the eye. Then use Zoom mascara in Fast Black because MAC’s blackest black is what’s needed to hold up against the strong, smoky purples. Then use Smolder pencil eye kohl in the water line of the eye to contrast w/any darkness that may be present under the eye. Finish the look off w/a sheer pink like Lust lipglass or barely a touch of Viva Glam II.

The Nails:
The nails were a ladylike camel color, Chocolate Milk, by Creative Nail Design. The gentle but sophisticated brown complemented the purple eye w/a subtle red undertone in the polish. This brown is a great neutral to wear with rich blues such as those shown in Herrera’s collection. Air Dry top coat was applied to give a sophisticated high shine to the nails. CND artists told us that Chocolate Milk is more an uptown brown than a downtown brown, perfect for the Herrera woman’s sophisticated look.

Credit: Angie W and Jessica M for Blogdorf Goodman