Love's always been my game...

A review of Lancôme Rouge in Love and Vernis in Love
By Jessica M and Angie W

Annie has been curious about Lancôme’s spring products for a while, so she when she shared her invitation to Lancôme’s launch of its new Rouge in Love (lipsticks) and Vernis in Love (nail polish) lines, we were happy to attend the party and report back to her.

Lancôme held its event at the jewelry boutique of cult designer Solange Azagury-Partridge on Madison Avenue in Manhattan. The shop is a gorgeous little space, like a combination of Aladdin’s cave and a private nightclub from the 1970s. It has red walls studded with tiny crystals, a rainbow-patterned carpet, and shadowboxes and vitrines displaying colorful, unusual pieces of jewelry. Showstoppers include the Zodiac inspired ring collection; Angie had her eye on an white enamel Aries ram’s head ring. Jessica couldn’t take her eyes off a glamour-Goth ring of tiny white-gold “bones” surrounding a shimmery, diamond encrusted skull.

Between admiring the gems, sipping complimentary champagne, and nibbling caviar hors d’oeuvres, we were offered lipstick applications by Lancôme makeup artists who chose colors for us. Lancôme has divided the colors into three categories: Jolis Matins (M) for classic daytime wear, Boudoir Time (B) for trendier looks, and Tonight is My Night (N) for glamorous evenings out.

Angie was dressed up in Rouge Valentine, a classic blue-red pin-up shade (185N). She was also intrigued by Cocoa Couture (292N, pictured), a deep, chocolate wine shade that would have suited Theda Bara, and Midnight Rose (377N, pictured), a vibrant fuschia that will look gorgeous for spring and summer.

Meanwhile, Jessica was matched with Roses in Love (353M, pictured). Its muted-bright medium pink brings a fresh glow to the face, so she’ll be wearing it well into 2012!

Rouge in Love’s colors appear matte in the tube, but they apply with a silky finish and a slight sheen. Their texture feels like a lip balm and the color has terrific, even coverage. The packaging is a little bit contemporary and a little bit retro: the matte silver cap has a line of red “stitching” running down the back, like the seam of a stocking!

Lancôme also gifted its guests with free Vernis in Love manicures at this party. Angie gravitated towards Vernis in Love in Rose Thé (350M) a muted, brownish pink, while Jessica fell for Rose Plumetis (300M, pictured), a cool-toned rosebud pink with a creme finish. Angie also admired Madame Tulipe (179M), a deep reddish wine, and many women at the event adored Rose Pitimini (343B), a vibrant cotton candy pink. The polishes apply smoothly and easily, thanks to a specially grooved and tapered brush, and two coats give full coverage that lasts for days.

Overall, the Solange boutique was the perfect setting for trying Lancôme’s romantic, lushly colored new lipsticks and polishes. Have you seen Rouge in Love or Vernis in Love in person yet? Have you found any favorite shades for this spring? Feel free to share in the comments!

Lancôme Rouge in Love ($25) is available at the Lancôme website and Lancôme counters. Vernis in Rouge ($15) is currently exclusive to Nordstrom and the Lancôme website; it will reach all Lancôme counters in May 2012.

Title: lyrics from “Falling in Love Again,” performed by Marlene Dietrich.
Photographs by Jessica M and Angie W for Blogdorf Goodman; ads courtesy of Lancôme.
Disclaimer: products were offered by Lancôme for review

Let me show you the world in my eyes: Anna Sui Fall 2011 Makeup Collection

A preview by Jessica M

I’ve mentioned before, here and on Now Smell This, that I’m a devoted admirer of Anna Sui’s fashion and her overall style, including her fragrance and cosmetics lines. I attended a party at the flagship Anna Sui boutique during Fashion Week last month, and I promised Annie a post about it; my non-blogging life has been busier than usual this fall, so I’m a little late, but I’m finally ready to share what I saw and learned.

This party was planned to preview the Anna Sui cosmetics collection for Fall 2011, which definitely emphasizes the eyes. The collection includes four new color cosmetics products: Colored Lash Amplifying Mascara in three shades (black, hot pink, and bright blue, for $28), an Eyebrow Color Compact palette in a range of three browns ($28), Perfect Mascara in black ($28), and vivid and sparkly Eyeliner Pencils in five shades ($19). There are also three limited edition decorative compacts for powder foundations ($15).

All the packaging is typical rock-and-romance Anna Sui style, of course; I particularly like the bow-shaped compacts for the brow powder.

I ended up buying myself yet another Anna Sui dress that night, after browsing the cosmetics and eating cupcakes and saying hello to the ever-gracious Ms. Sui herself (that’s her with one of her fantastic boutique staff in the picture).

I’m planning a return visit to the boutique to pick up some of the cosmetics soon. I’d like to own one or two of the eyeliners, possibly the Neon Green (really more olive than neon) and Pearl Bronze shades, as well as one of the “Elegant” green-and-white powder compact.

I’ll also be keeping an eye out for the repackaged nail polish line. Its bottles are shaped like dressmaking forms wearing party dresses. So clever! The new shades will range from shimmery nudes to rich purple and glittery green, so there’s something for everyone.

Anna Sui’s cosmetics line is available at the Anna Sui boutique in New York (113 Greene Street, New York, NY 10013, phone 212-941-8406).

Title lyrics from Depeche Mode.
Party/boutique photos by Jessica M for Blogdorf Goodman
Review by Jessica Murphy

Kiss Me, Kate

A review of Kate Spade Supercalifragilipstick
By Jessica M and Angie W

Poppy King, the Lipstick Queen, is sharing her talent and knowledge in several collaborations this year. She has created a signature lipstick for J. Crew, a range of seven lipsticks for the Boots no. 7 makeup line (soon available in the U.S.!), and a set of four lippies for the design house Kate Spade.

The four shades in Poppy’s “Supercalifragilipstick” line for Kate Spade are Pop Art Pink, Fuchsia Fete, Bashful Blush, and Adventurous Red. They all strike a nice balance between classic and trendy, just like Kate Spade’s clothing and accessories.

Angie has been wearing Bashful Blush, a versatile "your lips but better" shade. This is the perfect color for anyone who wants a muted, slightly brownish pink for daytime wear. It goes on with just the right amount of pigment and a subtle sheen, right out of the tube. It looks especially beautiful with Angie’s coloring: she is a pale brunette with blue-gray eyes.

Jessica has been trying out Pop Art Pink, a richly pigmented shade that looks almost hot-pink in the tube. It can be dabbed onto the lips and patted in with a fingertip for a sheerer look, or applied in a stronger swipe for bolder color. Jessica, who has dark brown hair, brown eyes, and pale skin, has been complementing Pop Art Pink with a little bit of rosy blush.

Thanks to Poppy King’s expertise in lipstick formulas, Supercalifragilipstick has a creamy texture and good staying power. Last but not least, its packaging has a fun mechanism: you press the top down gently, instead of pulling it, and then the tube pops open by itself! The swivel-up section is marked “PUCKER UP,” which makes us smile...all the better for applying lipstick.

Supercalifragilipstick will be released in early September and will sell for $24 at Kate Spade stores and the Kate Spade website.

Image: Kate Spade Fall/Winter 2011 ad campaign featuring Bryce Dallas Howard, via Storemags.com.
Product photographs by Jessica and Angie.
Disclaimer: Samples were provided for review.

(Many thanks to the one and only Poppy for sharing this new product with us!)

Blossom Dearie

A review of Essence Cosmetics “Blossoms etc.” Limited Edition Collection
By Jessica M

Essence Cosmetics releases several Limited Edition seasonal
collections per year, and the offering for this spring and summer in
the United States, called Blossoms Etc., is my favorite yet. It
features “gentle pastel shades and floral designs,” with the good
quality and low prices that Essence is known for.

I’ve been impressed by Essence’s nail polishes for a while, and the
Blossoms polishes live up to my expectations for the brand. I’ve
tried Forgot-Me-Not, a lavender-blue crème that reminds me of the
Periwinkle crayon from the big Crayola crayon box. (It looks more
shimmery in the bottle than it does on the nails.) I wore two coats
of Forget-Me-Not as my manicure last week and received several
compliments. The other shade I’m testing is I Like, a mermaid-y green
that dries to a cool seafoam crème (with very discreet shimmer) on the
nails. Like Forget-Me-Not, it lasts well and it’s eye-catching in a
fresh, soft way. ($1.99 each)

The eyeshadows in the Blossoms Etc. collection are duos: the darker
shade is a well-pigmented matte shadow, and the lighter shade is
shimmery and sheer. Bloom-a-Loom is the lilac/pink duo, and
Forget-Me-Not is the purple-lavender duo. I usually stick to neutrals
for my eye shadows, but these colors are flattering and not overly
bright, so I’m able to fit them into my everyday “look.” ($2.49 each)
And wait, what’s that interesting-looking compact peeking into the
corner of the photo?

Here’s a better look at Flower Power Multi Colour Powder, an embossed
mosaic of pink, peach, nude, and light bronze shades. It has fine
shimmer, so it’s a perfect finishing touch for cheekbones or temples.
I always admire high-end embossed highlighting powders and blushes,
but I rarely buy them, because I know I’ll end up hoarding them at the
back of a drawer. This powder is priced so affordably, however, that
I can use it without guilt. ($2.99)

And what spring line would be complete without a pretty lip gloss?
This shade is Flowerkissed. I love its carnation-pink color. This
gloss has a doe-foot applicator and applies smoothly for a creamy,
moderately shiny finish. ($1.99)

Blossoms Etc. was released in May, and this line of May flowers will
be around only until supplies are gone, so if you’re curious, do check
it out soon!

Essence Cosmetics is available at Ulta stores, the Ulta website
(http://www.ulta.com/), and Fred Meyer stores (in the Pacific Northwest
region).

Images: All photographs by Jessica M for BlogdorfGoodman
Disclaimer: Press samples were provided by Essence Cosmetics

Spring Fling

Some new products from Essence Cosmetics
A review by Jessica M

About a year ago, I reported on the United States launch of Essence
Cosmetics, a German beauty line that has turned out to be one of my
favorite bargain brands. I was especially impressed by Essence’s
mascaras (All Eyes on Me and Multi-Action are my favorites), blush
brush, and nail polishes, and they’ve all gained permanent places in
my makeup drawer.

I was recently invited to another event hosted by Essence cosmetics
and I had a chance to revisit the line and try some more products.
One new item is Stay With Me Long-Lasting Lipgloss ($2.29), offered in
seven crème shades that start with lots of shine and gradually wear
down into a tint of color. Candy Bar (coral), Trendsetter (cherry
red), Me & My Ice Cream (light pink), and I Like Cotton Candy (rich
berry) are all perfect for summer wear, and they would suit a range of
skintones. (I particularly like the contoured doe-foot of the gloss’s
applicator.)

Essence also recently added lipsticks to its offerings in the United
States. It’s hard for me to ignore any lipstick (especially one that
retails for $2.49), and Essence’s lippie is available in ten sheer
shades, all with shimmer, that range from cool to warm. The three
that worked best for me were Kiss You (baby pink), Look at Me (bronzey
nude), and Fairy Tale (deep mauve). Their plastic cases match the
shades inside, which is a nice touch. I’m also constantly on the
lookout for sweet and simple neutrals that suit a fair complexion, so
I was happy to try Essence’s Lipliner in Soft Rose (99 cents for a
high-quality pencil) and nicely milled Silky Touch Blush in Adorable
(a very light peach, priced at $2.49).

Essence’s Colour & Go Quick Drying Nail Polish colors (99 cents each)
are on-trend, long-lasting, and unbelievably affordable. Some of the
newer shades that caught my eye were updated neutrals like Date With
the Night (futuristic charcoal shimmer) and Irreplaceable (pale
putty-gray with gold shimmer) and the more colorful Choose Me! (bright
teal with holographic glitter) and Where Is The Party? (holographic
purple with green).

Essence is also continuing to release several limited-edition “trend”
collections per year, and I’ll be back soon to review the latest one
available in the United States. It’s one of my favorite “trend”
releases yet, and just like the products I’ve already mentioned, it’s
completely spring-worthy.

Essence Cosmetics is available at Ulta stores, the Ulta website
(http://www.ulta.com/), and Fred Meyer stores (in the Pacific Northwest
region).

Images: Illustration from the Essence Cosmetics website
(http://www.essence.eu/).
All photographs by Jessica M for BlogdorfGoodman
Disclaimer: Press samples were provided by Essence Cosmetics

40 Days and 40 Nights of Fragrance Notes: Lilies

Gilding the Lily
By Jessica M

For my last contribution to this “40 Days...” series, I thought I’d
write a few words about lily notes in perfume -- not to be confused
with lily-of-the-valley, which Patti has already discussed so
beautifully.

The lily is such a symbolic flower. The fleur-de-lys, or “lily
flower,” is an emblem of France. A lily often represents purity, and
in Christianity, it is associated with the Virgin Mary. It’s often
used as a sign of rebirth for Easter (very timely!) and for funerals.
Perhaps all this symbolism distracts us from the fact that the lily is
also a beautiful note for perfume.

Lilies are so fragrant and so stunning to look at: they have clean,
sculptural lines and a cool, creamy scent. A lily can be almost too
perfect, like a Hitchcock blonde. I prefer lilies when they’re
slightly mussed up, with their pollen starting to fall in fine golden
dust and the very edges of their petals beginning to curl. In
fragrance, I like to smell a lily note brightened with leafy-green
accents or warmed with a hint of spice or a breath of salty air. Then
it feels a little more approachable, even a bit decadent.

I usually prefer lily (and many white floral notes, like gardenia or
freesia) in home fragrance, but in springtime, I often crave a
lily-inspired perfume too. Lily can feel polished but fresh, in a
very classic way.

Here are a few recommendations for lily fragrances to try this spring:

Antica Farmacista Casablanca Lily
Donna Karan Gold
Frédéric Malle Un Lys Mediterranée
Penhaligon’s Lily & Spice
Serge Lutens Un Lys
Van Cleef & Arpels Lys Carmin
YOSH Stargazer

(Many thanks to Annie for inviting me to join this series!)

Disclosure: The perfumes mentioned in this post were purchased (or
sampled in stores) by the reviewer.
Reviewer: Jessica M
Photo Credits: White lily via Wikipedia. Paul Berthon, cover of
L’Ermitage, c. 1897, via Wikimedia Commons.
Graphic Credit: Melanie Parker

40 Days and 40 Nights of Fragrance Notes: Lavender

The Lavender Hill Mob
By Jessica M

The smell of lavender is so familiar that we don’t always appreciate
it. Sometimes we write it off as commonplace, old-fashioned, even
boring – but I’m taking this opportunity to reconsider it with an open
mind (and an open nose!).

Lavender oil is produced from the stalks and flowers of the lavender
plant, and it smells herbal and slightly flowery at the same time.
It’s a versatile essence for fragrance, since it combines well with
citrus, floral, and woodsy notes. The lavender scent of many ordinary
body products has a soapy, synthetic effect, but true lavender
fragrance is greener and feels more “alive.” It can be work by men as
well as women, and although it’s known for being relaxing, it also has
something rejuvenating about it.

Here’s some lavender trivia for all of us! Lavender belongs to the
mint family of plants, and its botanical name comes from the Latin
verb “lavare,” to wash – since the ancient Romans valued it for its
disinfectant properties. In the Middle Ages, lavender was praised in
early herbal studies for its healing effects on the body and the mind.
The Elizabethans scented their homes with sachets, potpourri, and
pomanders containing dried lavender flowers. Lavender was a key
ingredient in the first Eau de Cologne blend, created by Jean-Marie
Farina (1709) and in Guerlain’s original Eau de Cologne Impériale
(1853), and Napoleon is said to have enjoyed wearing lavender water.
We still use lavender as it has been used for many centuries – to
scent our bath, our linens, and ourselves.

In the mid-90s, I was in the mood for a lavender perfume, but I had
some trouble finding one. Lavender-scented bath and body products
were everywhere, of course, but actual lavender fragrances were harder
to locate. (Remember, this was also before internet-shopping took
off!) I did come across Geo F. Trumper Lavender Water at the men’s
counter in Barneys, but that blend was still slightly too woodsy and
masculine for me. My search was rewarded with a Lavender eau de
toilette from the original Demeter fragrance line (when it was a small
indie brand created by Christopher Brosius, who later founded CB I
Hate Perfume).

Fortunately, there seems to have been a small lavender revival over
the past decade, with several classic, mainstream, and independent
perfume houses adding lavender fragrances to their product catalogues.
I like having a lavender perfume handy for warm days, or moments when
I feel a bit tense, or times when I just want to wear something simple
and fresh and timeless. Anyone looking for a “clean”-type scent
should remember lavender: it set the trend, a very long time ago!

Here are some lavender-based perfumes to try and enjoy:

Crabtree & Evelyn Lavender Water
Crabtree & Evelyn Lavender Eau de Toilette (new, with a lovely bottle)
Caron Les Plus Belles Lavandes
Elizabeth W Lavender Eau de Parfum
L’Occitane Eau de la Recolte Bleue Lavender Harvest
Roxanna Villa / Illuminated Perfume Vera
Penhaligon’s Lavandula
Tauer Perfumes Reverie au Jardin

Disclosure: The perfumes mentioned in this post were purchased (or
sampled in stores) by the reviewer.
Reviewer: Jessica M
Title: the name of a movie from 1951, starring Alec Guinness, Stanley
Holloway, and Audrey Hepburn.
Photo Credits: Lavender flowers, via Wikipedia. “Lavender, Temple
Bar,” by William Marshall Craig, from “The Cries of London,” 1804, via
Art.com.
Graphic Credit: Melanie Parker

40 Days and 40 Nights of Fragrance Notes: Mimosa

Mellow Yellow
by Jessica M

It took me a long time to realize that I like the scent of mimosa. Actually, I’ve always been a little confused about mimosa, because the tree that we call “mimosa” in the northeastern United States, with its pink powder-puff flowers, is not the mimosa that shows up in perfume. The mimosas used in perfumery are the trees of the acacia genus, a different type altogether, with feathery leaves and clusters of yellow flowers that look like little pom-poms.

Mimosa is a friendly flower. It’s not seductive, or mysterious, or dramatic. It doesn’t have the magic of rose or the coyness of violet. It’s simple and cheerful. It smells like whipped butter, freshly laundered cotton sheets, and a few drops of honey. My favorite mimosa-scented item is Diptyque’s Mimosa candle: it feels like a pure rendition of mimosa. In many mimosa perfumes, however, this floral note is combined with green or woody notes. The effect can be lovely, even if it isn’t straight-up mimosa.

I’ve read that the mimosa blossom is celebrated as a sign of early spring in Southern France; in Italy and Russia, it’s exchanged as a gift on International Women’s Day (March 8th). And none of this has anything to do with the mimosa cocktail, of course; that’s another story for another blog!

Here are a few fragrances that feature mimosa:

Annick Goutal Mimosa
L’Artisan Parfumeur Mimosa Pour Moi
Amouage Library Collection Opus III
Ayala Moriel Les Nuages de Joie Jaune
Calypso by Christianne Celle Mimosa
Caron Farnesiana
Kenzo Summer
L’Occitane Mimosa (discontinued?)

Disclosure: The perfumes mentioned in this post were purchased (or sampled in stores) by the reviewer.
Reviewer: Jessica M
Photo Credits: Vintage mimosa soap label, via Art.com. Acacia dealbata, via Wikimedia Commons.
Graphic Credit: Melanie Parker

40 Days and 40 Nights of Fragrance Notes: Orange Blossom and Neroli

Orange Blossom Special
By Jessica M

There are so many flowers associated with springtime, but one of my favorites is the bloom of the orange tree. Orange blossoms are tiny, white, and star-shaped. They are highly fragrant, and they were traditionally worn and carried by brides. (Very appropriately, the orange blossom is also the Florida state flower!)

Natural perfumer Mandy Aftel has described the bitter orange tree as a “veritable cottage industry for the perfumer,” because its parts can be used in so many different ways. The peels of the oranges yield orange oil; the tree’s twigs and leaves give us petitgrain; and the blossoms are processed to create both neroli absolute and orange flower absolute.

Neroli absolute is produced when orange flowers are distilled with water. It was reportedly named in honor of a princess of Nerola, Italy, who set a trend in the seventeenth century by using this essence to scent her gloves, her bathwater, and so on. Neroli has a slightly citrus-fruity scent, but more than anything, it’s like liquid sunshine. If it were a color, it would certainly be golden.

Orange flower absolute is extracted by processing the blossoms with solvents rather than distilling them with water or steam. Even though it comes from the same plant, orange flower essence ends up smelling noticeably different from neroli. It’s still fresh and bright, but definitely more flowery. Sometimes it has a faint hint of creaminess. It’s just a little bit sensual, but in an upbeat, approachable way; it’s never overwhelming in the way that other white florals (like tuberose or even jasmine) can be.

Neroli and orange flower both blend well with other floral and fruity notes, as well as spice and woods, so they show up frequently in fragrance (sometimes as natural essences, sometimes as synthetic recreations). Perfumers also tend to combine neroli and orange blossom in the same scent; where you smell one, you might very well smell the other. Keeping that in mind, let’s name a few neroli and/or orange blossom fragrances to enjoy...

Neroli:
Annick Goutal Neroli
Atelier Cologne Grand Neroli
Diptyque L’Eau de Neroli
Pacifica Nerola Orange Blossom
Tom Ford Neroli Portofino

Orange Blossom:
Ayala Moriel Zohar
Bourbon French Parfums Orange Blossom
Jo Malone Orange Blossom Cologne
Lush (Gorilla Perfumes) Orange Blossom
Penhaligon’s Orange Blossom (Anthology collection)

Disclosure: The perfumes mentioned in this post were purchased (or sampled in stores) by the reviewer.
Reviewer: Jessica M
Quotation: Mandy Aftel, “Essence and Alchemy,” page 114.
Photo Credits: Mockingbird and Orange Blossoms, via Art.com. Orange blossom and oranges, via Wikimedia Commons.
Graphic Credit: Melanie Parker

40 Days and 40 Nights of Fragrance Notes: Almond

Almond Joy
By Jessica M

I love the taste of almonds, whenever and wherever they show up---a handful or raw or salted almonds is a perfect snack, and I’m also a big fan of almond butter on toast, chewy almond confections like marzipan, nougat, or macarons, or just a sip of amaretto after a special dinner.

Without even realizing that I was doing it, I’ve also gathered and used many body products and home fragrance products scented with almond, and now I’m noticing that this note has become a stealth favorite in my perfume collection, too.

The almond tree, with its delicate pink or white blossoms, is native to the Mediterranean and the Middle East; in the United States, almonds are grown in California. The almond nut is, technically speaking, the seed of the almond fruit. I find its flavor difficult to describe. It’s smooth and a tiny bit sweet, but also dry and almost floury.

In fragrance, almond is a less dessert-like alternative to vanilla: it can make a perfume “gourmand,” without pouring on the sugar and syrup. Of course, it can also be intensified with the addition of other notes, so that it turns buttery or creamy. Perfumes often combine almond with vanilla, with musk, or with cherry---occasionally, with all three!

Here are some almond-inspired fragrances to try, ranging from light to rich:

L'Artisan Parfumeur Jour de Fête
Acorelle Amande de Blé
Carol's Daughter Almond Cookie
Lush Snowcake (limited edition)
Ava-Luxe Amande
Crazylibellule & the Poppies Vanilla Macarons
Serge Lutens Louve
Calypso St. Barth Léa
Acqua di Parma Mandorlo di Sicilia
Dior Hypnotic Poison

Do you have a favorite almond scent? Feel free to share in the comments!

Disclosure: The perfumes mentioned in this post were purchased (or sampled in stores) by the reviewer.
Reviewer: Jessica M
Photo Credits: The Almond Harvest (California), via Art.com. Almonds, via Wikimedia Commons.
Graphic Credit: Melanie Parker

40 Days and 40 Nights of Fragrance Notes: Carnation

Simply Divine
By Jessica M

Sometimes I feel sorry for the carnation. It’s often considered a commonplace flower, even a cheap one, and it doesn’t get much respect. It was the flower that we never wanted to see in the corsages that boys gave us at school dances, and it’s a flower that we really don’t send to friends or relatives on special occasions.


That’s a shame, because the carnation wasn’t always treated so shabbily. The Greek name for its botanical genus is “dianthus,” often translated as “divine flower.” The species that we usually associate with the carnation is Dianthus caryophyllus, although this genus also includes “pinks” and “Sweet Williams.” Shakespeare wrote in The Winter’s Tale, “Of trembling winter, the fairest flowers o' the season are our carnations.” I agree with him, and not just during the winter; I love wearing carnation fragrances all year long.

Carnation is a very identifiable note in fragrance, but it’s also a note with different shades to its personality. Sometimes it’s soft and powdery; sometimes it’s just a bit creamy, with a honeyed edge; and it can also be quite peppery and even spicy, like cloves. (In fact, I’ve heard that perfumers often imitate this flower’s scent with a skillful blend of clove and ylang-ylang or vanilla notes, since carnation absolute is so costly.) Carnation combines beautifully with rose, and it sits nicely on a base of woody notes.

I’m still not sure why this “divine flower” has a reputation for being tawdry; I even love the way it looks, with its fringed petals and its range of reds, pinks, and white. If you’re looking for a floral fragrance note that’s spicy-sweet, not too dainty and not too heady, a carnation perfume might be worth your time.

Here are a few carnation-inspired fragrances to try...

Carnation soliflores:
Lorenzo Villoresi Garofano
Santa Maria Novella Garofano
Comme des Garçons Series 2 Red: Carnation
Dawn Spencer Hurwitz Oeillets Rouges
Ava-Luxe Oeillet (new; haven’t tried it yet!)

Carnations with other notes:
Caron Bellodgia
Fragonard Billet Doux
Carthusia Fiori di Capri
Nina Ricci L’Air du Temps
Possets Perfume Silver Carnations

Discontinued, but not forgotten:
Floris Malmaison
L’Artisan Parfumeur Oeillet Sauvage

Disclosure: The perfumes mentioned in this post were purchased (or sampled in stores) by the reviewer.
Reviewer: Jessica M
Photo Credits: Decorative soap label, c. 1900, via Getty Images. Red Carnation Flowers by Takuya Uroki, via Corbis.
Graphic Credit: Melanie Parker

Tinted Love

A review of five tinted lip balms
By Jessica M

There’s a new generation of tinted lip balms showing up in stores these days, and they have wearable colors, soothing moisture, and more natural ingredients than we’ve seen before. To mention just a few: Korres and Burt’s Bees have added new products to their already-adored lip offerings, Tarte has introduced new shades and improved its packaging, LUSH is just getting started with color cosmetics, and Clark’s Botanicals maintains its status as a beauty editors’ favorite.

Here’s how these lip tints stacked up in my own late-winter testing. (I tried to choose colors that work with my own fair, cool/neutral skintone.)

Korres Lip Butter Glaze
Shade: Raspberry
Pigmentation: medium
Texture: smooth and glossy
Flavor: berry-vanilla
Packaging: tube with slant-tip
Price: $14 at Korres.com and Sephora.com
Verdict: feels lush and almost curative on lips, delivers good color pay-off in a health-conscious formulation

Burt’s Bees Tinted Lip Balm
Shade: Pink Blossom
Pigmentation: sheer
Texture: very emollient
Flavor: fruit gum
Packaging: swivel-up stick in cardboard case
Price: $7 at drugstores and Burtsbees.com
Verdict: the most traditionally balm-like of the group, gives a dewy look with fresh, subtle color

Tarte Cosmetics 24.7 Natural Lip Sheer SPF 15
Shade: Tea Time
Pigmentation: semi-opaque
Texture: almost matte
Flavor: light mint
Packaging: swivel-up stick (with metal tube)
Price: $16 at Tartecosmetics.com and Sephora.com
Verdict: a pretty, polished effect, like a lightweight lipstick with the added benefits of moisture and sunscreen

Clarks’ Botanicals Ultra Rich Lip TintShade: Rachel Red
Pigmentation: medium
Texture: shiny
Flavor: vanilla ice cream
Packaging: tube with slant-tip
Price: $19 at Clarksbotanicals.com
Verdict: a bit streaky in its application, looks like a vibrant gloss but fades and slips away quickly; works best as a top coat over lipstick

LUSH It Started with a Kiss
Shade: one color available
Pigmentation: medium and buildable
Texture: semi-stain
Flavor: apple spice cake with buttercream frosting
Packaging: pot with screw-top lid
Price: $6.95 at Lush.com
Verdict: looks scarily bright in the pot, but applies as a flattering (and on-trend) coral-red... and lasts through a coffee break or an actual kiss!


Review by Jessica M
Disclaimer: The Tarte, Korres, and Clark’s balms were purchased by the author. The Burt’s Bees and Lush products were provided as press samples.
Review title is a homage to Soft Cell.
Images: Jessica M for Blogdorf Goodman

Bess Is More

Another review of Edward Bess Cosmetics
by Jessica M


When Annie first wrote about Edward Bess and his cosmetics line, Edward was showing his products on a small set of shelves on Bergdorf’s beauty floor. Three years have passed, and now he has a counter of his own, a sales staff, and a full-page ad in the latest Bergdorf Goodman catalog. Have you already seen it? Isn’t it a feast for the eyes? (It reminds me of Audrey Flack’s fantastic photorealist paintings from the 1970s.)

I recently visited Edward at Bergdorf with my friends and fellow bloggers Gaia (The Non-Blonde) and Trish (Scent Hive), and I asked him to touch up my makeup using a few of the products I already own and a few that I was planning to purchase that day. I’m making two beauty resolutions for the new year: first, to buy only high-quality products that I truly need and love, and second, to use these products every day, rather than save them for “special occasions.” Edward Bess Cosmetics fits the bill, since it’s such a well-edited, well-crafted line, and the pretty, natural look that Edward gave me is the one I’ll be wearing every day.

I already own and two Ultra Slick Lipsticks, a my-lips-but-better mauve named Forever Yours and a warm pinkish nude called Tender Love. (When I wear Tender Love, I often add a touch of Deep Shine Lip Gloss in Dark Blossom, which looks almost brick-colored in the tube but shows up as a flattering reddish neutral against my skin.) My new favorite is Rose Demure, a recent addition to the line. It’s the ideal rose-petal shade with a creamy finish, and like all Edward Bess lipsticks, it feels as lush as it looks. (Notice the new square tube!)

My favorite Ultra Luminous Eyeshadow is Intimate. Photographs don’t really do it justice: it’s a khaki-taupe with a hint of very fine shimmer, and its texture is incredibly smooth. A light sweep of Intimate is a simple but polished effect for daytime, and a more intense application works well for evening. And a shadow this good deserves Edward’s Luxury Eye Brush, a magic wand for eye makeup. It has a weighted metal handle and tapered, flexible bristles that deposit just the right amount of color to the lid, the crease, or the browbone, depending on the angle you’re holding it. (Speaking of the browbone, I think I’ll be investing in a Nude shadow or an All Over Seduction highlighter in Sunlight on my next visit.) Defining Eyeliner in Deep Brown, a swivel-up liner that applies easily and precisely, is the perfect complement. I’m also looking forward to the new mascara that will be released in the spring.



I’m often afraid to wear blush, because I don’t want to overdo it, but Blush Imperiale in Soft Orchid is a fresh clover-blossom pink that gives a healthy flush to paler skin tones like mine. And Edward’s Luxury Face Brush is so soft and full that I’m able to apply the blush with a gentle touch. Just like everything else that I’ve purchased from this line, it’s a pleasure to use. I can’t decide whether to call all these products “basic luxuries” or “luxurious basics.” Either one will do!


Do you have any favorites from Edward Bess, or any new beauty resolutions? Feel free to share!

Edward Bess Cosmetics are available at Bergdorf Goodman (http://www.bergdorfgoodman.com
or call 212-872-8826) and at selected Neiman Marcus stores.

Disclaimer: all products pictured and mentioned were purchased by the reviewer, with the exception of the Dark Blossom gloss, which was a gift with purchase.

Photograph credits: Jessica M for Blogdorf Goodman.