40 Days and 40 Nights of Fragrance Notes: Bergamot

Something About The Sunshine
by Patti F

The lovely, light bergamot note in perfumes is not usually seen on its own. Unless you take a little trip to Sicily, where you can find a bottle of Bergamotta from a street vendor for about $5 USD. This citrus fruit is grown in the south of Italy in the Calabria region and also in Sicily. From what I've been reading about bergamot, the fruit is grown mostly for perfumery purposes and it is not eaten at all. The scent of bergamot is used to treat depression! And its essence is used as a cure for malaria! On the tree it might more resemble an orange, and is actually categorized as an orange, but the scent of bergamot brings forth a freshly squeezed lemon, peel and all. In the little bottle of Bergamotta, I smell lemon tree flowers. Bergamot notes in fragrances can smell like fresh lemon juice or lemon peel, or sometimes like lemon leaves or lemon tree blossoms. But it is different from a regular lemon note, which can tend to smell sometimes like household cleaning products




In perfumery, bergamot takes its place along with oakmoss and patchouli, the Holy Trinity of notes that make a fragrance a classic chypre. I've loved chypre scents even before I knew the word chypre. Back then we called them woodsy-mossy. My first chypre was the original formula of Cachet by Prince Matchabelli, still absolutely beautiful if you can find it, but stay away from the reformulation that bears no resemblance to the original. My Mom bought me a bottle of Chanel No. 19 when I was a teen, and we both still love and wear it. Chanel also uses bergamot in its lovely, fresh Cristalle. I have a bottle of Cristalle, which I purchased when I found out that Chris Noth (Mister Big) once said that this fragrance can bring him to his knees. Just in case I ever run into him, I'm tucking a vial of Cristalle in my purse.

Dior loves to use bergamot in its fragrances. The Escale series started with Portofino, a breezy, clean scent you might want to try if you wish to capture the feeling of standing on a balcony in the fresh air of that Italian port city. Dior is famous for its green Diorella, a classic chypre with beautiful florals. Guerlain's timeless Jicky starts with bergamot before it brings forth the lavender that is loved by its wearers. One of Guerlain's oldest scents, it still seems totally modern. You'll find bergamot in the hauntingly lovely Apres L'Ondee, too. That is, if you can even find Apres L'Ondee at all.

Bergamot tames the heaviness of the rose notes in Fragonard's Baroque. It adds a lemony-peppery feeling to Acqua Di Parma Profumo, which contains three types of bergamot (source: Barney's website.) Profumo is a fascinating scent that delivers so many levels and layers, starting with the light lemony fizz, and moving through rich florals, ending in satisfying woods. Be careful, though, I've read that there is now a reformulation. I hope it's not true. From Italy you will find many scents with bergamot, including Aqua Di Genova Lady (with a sad wave goodbye to Takashimaya, where I found this gem.) From the markdown tables at TJMaxx, Borsari's Il Mio Sogno was a happy discovery, with light white florals and oakmoss. You'll find bergamot in many Italian perfumes, since it's grown right there in Italy.

The lemony bergamot note dominates the opening of my beautiful Zen by Shiseido. Hard to find, to say the least, Shiseido has lent this name to at least two new fragrances, both of which have nothing at all to do with the original in the gorgeous black bottle. This white floral blend has been a favorite of mine ever since my college roommate insisted that I borrow it from her for a first date with a new beau. She was so worldly and glamourous, of course I took her advice! I dated that young man for a year and purchased my own bottle of Zen. Chinatown by Bond No. 9 begins with bergamot before it gives you its heart of beautiful florals.

Bergamot in fragrances gives an initial appeal, but is not too fruity or clinging. It is not meant to linger, but just to entice. Chances are that many of the perfumes on your own fragrance tray have bergamot in them. From the first known perfumery blends to the latest launch, bergamot is a very important ingredient in perfumery and well-respected as a fragrance note in perfumes all over the world.

Do you have a favorite perfume that contains bergamot?

Disclaimer: All bottles in these photographs were purchased by the writer, with the exception of Jicky and Diorama, which were gifts.
Reviewer: Patti F aka Cavewoman
Photo Credits: Patti F aka Cavewoman
Graphic Credit: Melanie Parker
Title: Ann Margaret's Something About The Sunshine

Day 7: Priming the Pucker

Guerlain KissKiss LipLift Review

This is a lip primer that garners raves on Makeupalley. It is supposed to fill in lip lines and grab onto lipstick like no other product on the market. I have always wanted to try it but balked at the price tag. I caved due to this 40 day project.

Guerlain packaging always makes the most simple beauty product feel glamorous and special. It might be just a primer but the tube is more sleek than most lipsticks. LipLift does manage to fill in most lip lines. I have creases in my lips and this managed to disguise them a bit. I am not sure if it is fairy magic or the science behind the "spherical microparticles" listed on the ingredients.
The lippie primer has a creamy texture that feels like a moisturizing treatment. It is very balm-like. Lipstick applies smoother and lasts longer. This was the standout feature. My lipstick and lip glosses were wearing off after two hours. This product managed to extend my lip color until lunch time. There was also less lipstick on my coffee cup.

I kept my lippie routine "business as usual". The primer is applied first. I applied one coat and spread the product slightly over my lip line. I patted the product with the tips of my fingers. This helps prevent bleeding of the lipstick. I applied a lipstick with a layering of a sparkling gloss and was out the door. My first touch up was at lunch. My lipstick had worn evenly down into an attractive stain.

Guerlain is available at your local counter at Saks and other fine department stores.
It is around $30.
Let us know what you think of this product in the comments!

Disclaimer: This product was purchased by me.

Best Lippie Packaging: Luxuriant, opulent, glossy pearl pink metal, butterfly adorned Guerlain Kiss Kiss Lipstick Collector in Delicate Butterfly

Credit: Storybookheroine

Guerlain's Spring Collection 2009: Paradis Exotique

Oh, I've been to Niece and the Isle of Greece while I've sipped champagne on a yacht
I've moved like Harlow in Monte Carlo and showed 'em what I've got
I've been undressed by kings and I've seen some things that a woman ain't supposed to see
I've been to paradise, but I've never been to me
(lyrics to I've Never Been to Me)

The spring palette compact designed by Hervé Van der Straeten is too pretty to use. The palette is called 404 Paradis Exotique and contains 4 shades. Each shadow is etched with a bird of paradise. The green shade reminds me of my beloved and long discontinued MAC's Metamorph. It retails for $58 and is limited edition.

The stand outs in this spring collection are the KissKiss glosses. The shimmer power is very similiar to YSL's Golden Glosses. The pigment is sheer and the glitter is very fine. The green shade is the jewel. It is the one that incited oohs and ahhs from the gang.

804 Orange Interdite (sheer peach with gold and orange glitter)
805 Cerise Tentation (sheer coral with pink glitter)
806 Pomme du Desir (green shade)

These 3 Spring shades are limited edition and retail for $29.

The new single shadows (Ombre Eclat Mono) are very rich yet light in pigment power and texture. They are easily blendable,slightly luminous and act as a great wash for the eye.
140 L’Instant Precieux (Pearly)
141 L’Instant Charnel (Velvety)
142 L’Instant Fauve (Sparkly)
143 L’Instant Cuir (Sparkly)
160 L’Instant Coquin (Velvety)
161 L’Instant Fleuri (Pearly)
180 L’Instant Fume (Pearly)
181 L’Instant Emeraude (Sparkly)
182 L’Instant Nuit (Sparkly) (for the taupe lovers)
190 L’Instant Indigo (Sparkly)

This collection is currently at Guerlain counters at your local Saks store. Our local Dillards did not have it in stock yet. It is also available at Sephora.com

Credits: Sephora,Charlene, Blogdorf Goodman(pics) and Youtube.

Guerlain Vol de Nuit Evasion

This is the only fragrance I purchased while I was in Paris.
And technically...I bought this while flying the friendly skies with Air France.

The notes are peach(so fleeting), rose, iris and jasmine. The drydown is composed of precious woods, vanilla and a rich velvety amber.
I bought this unsniffed because I was in a panic I did not purchase anything.
I could not be the girl that went to Paris and did not buy a thing.
I have no regrets.
The fragrance is quite comforting and lovely.

From what I read in the Air France magazine...this will be exclusive to the airline and Guerlain boutiques.


Credits: Blogdorf Goodman
Disclosure: This Paris trip was made possible by Chanel.

Fragrance of the Day: Guerlain's Chamade

I fell in love with Guerlain's Chamade after being properly introduced by Brooklyntbone. The vintage version is intoxicating.
I had given up the dream of owning a vintage bottle until Tussah spotted this bottle on Ebay. I do not have an Ebay account due to fact that I am weak and prone to financial ruin.
Cavewoman was kind enough to bid for me. We won the auction for around $58 dollars. I opened it last night with tweezers and a prayer.
The first whiff was sheer heaven.
I love everything from the opening notes to the lovely woods drydown.

The notes are Hyacinth, Jasmine, Ylang-Ylang, Blackcurrant bud, Galbanum, Vanilla, Woody notes and Balsamic notes.

What is your fragrance of the day? Let us know in the comments!




Disclosure: I purchased this perfume via Ebay
BTW: Inside the box was a vintage price tag of $16.00

40 Days and 40 Nights of Beauty Brand Reviews

Day 15, Guerlain

Storybookheroine: My favorite product from Guerlain?, Meteorites powder for the face. Meteorites colors from the regular line are Mythic, an all over face powder for light to light-medium skin; Pink Fresh, a shimmering light pink blush; and Beige Chic, a face powder for medium to darker skin or a light bronzer for light skin (makes a nice shadow too). The boxes are inspired by Marie Antoinette's jewelry box and the powder is violet scented but does not irritate my sensitive skin. The regular line colors are sold loose but Mythic is also available as in a refillable compact. Every year for the holidays Guerlain releases limited edition meteorites (loose and in compact form) and sometimes late spring as well.

Mythic is my go to daily finishing powder. The green balls reduce redness, pink gives a healthy complexion, mauve attracts light, white brightens and the gold and mother of pearl add radiance and highlights. I find Mythic sheer and natural looking but it adds all the right things and corrects my flaws. There is a hint of shimmer to the powder but I would never call it a shimmer powder and if I dust this over my skin I usually feel good enough to skip foundation. Applied over my favorite foundation and powder Mythic gives me a flawless complexion, almost airbrushed. It takes care of my flaws, discoloration, hyperpigmentation spots and redness while still appearing natural and sheer. A really multi-tasker. They are worth the extra step in your makeup routine.


I wish I knew about them years ago.


Limited Editions (loose/compact)
2002 Blushy Blush/Red Fusion
2003 Reflects de Nacres/Eclat de Rose
2004 Glittering Pearls/Midnight Diamond
2005 Winter Radiance (same for both types)
2006 White Pearls (spring loose only), Perles de Velours/Reflects de Velours
2007 Pucci (coming this spring)


(top Mythic, right Glittering Pearls, bottom Winter Radiance)





Cavewoman: It took three trips to the Guerlain counter at the Saks flagship store in New York before I finally chose my first Guerlain. I wanted to choose just the right one, but it was so hard to do, and when I began to study Guerlain fragrances, I learned why. I love the connecting thread of what is referred to as The Guerlinade, the similarity of notes that make the older Guerlains seem like sister scents. I remember that my three finalists were Apres L'Ondee, Mitsouko, and Parure. Needless to say, by looking at the photos, I've acquired a few more Guerlains over the years, (including the two runners-up) and I've come to appreciate Shalimar also, which I never even wanted to try on myself because a former neighbor of mine used to marinate herself in it. Sometimes I crave Shalimar, and often I reach for a dab of it before I go to bed.

On that day when I finally made my first Guerlain purchase, I ended up choosing Parure. A little less fruity than Mitsouko, but sharing many notes with that scent, Parure opens with a fresh, soapy quality that I just love. Top notes replace the peach of Mitsouko with plum. A bouquet of white flowers balanced with lilac and sweet narcissus create a devastatingly feminine heart. This is a womanly fragrance, self-assured and poised, but never aggressive or intrusive. A base anchored in oakmoss, my favorite, fills out with spices, amber, patchouli, and a leather note. Even the name is elegant. The word "parure" is a word one seldom hears these days, and it means "a matched set of jewelry," perhaps a necklace, earrings, and a brooch or a bracelet. Imagine opening a cherished velvet box containing a set of vintage Weiss rhinestone jewels -- clip earrings, sparkling brooch, lovely bracelet, saved for special occasions and carefully stored away for the next one. That's the time to be wearing Parure. But don't save the scent for special occasions, because wearing it will perhaps create one for you!

The empty bottle in my photo, the bottle that looks like The Guggenheim, is a true find. I bought this bottle, made by Baccarat, about 30 years ago from a catalog called Horchow. The description told that this bottle had been created for a famous perfume house which ended up not taking all the bottles from Baccarat. It was only recently that I found out that this was the bottle for Vega. It feels like cool silk in the hand. I wish it were filled with Vega.

What are your favorites from Guerlain?
Photos: Storybookheroine and Cavewoman

Disclosure: The products were purchased by the reviewers.

40 Days and 40 Nights of Primers

Today's primer comes from the venerable House Of Guerlain. With supremely elegant products and beautiful packaging, my artist's eye is charmed and enchanted with all things Guerlain. Not to mention the fragrances! But that's not why we are here. We are here to evaluate primers. And so off to the Guerlain counter we went, my Annie and me, with my La Prairie foundation tucked into my purse, bare faced and eager to try the Divinora Pure Radiance Primer. Our SA was named Victoria and when she could not find the tester, she promptly opened a brand new box and pumped out the primer onto my hand. The most amazing feature of the Divinora primer is the presence of little 24 karat gold flecks suspended in the clear gel formula. Yes, real gold! Now I have to say, it's pretty to look at, but I was skeptical. I applied the primer to my face and asked Annie to see what happened to the gold flecks. Annie said she could not see the flecks on my face! And so Victoria started to read the enclosed brochure to us. The brochure states that the 24 karat gold particles "instantly melt into the skin" and gee, that must be true, because they weren't on my hand, they weren't on my fingers, and they weren't on my face! Gold sunk into my skin! I wonder where it goes from there???

Now onto the performance of this product. When the Divinora dried on my face, I felt a very slight tightening and a nice cooling effect. I noticed that I had much more color in my face, not from the clear product (could it be the gold?) but probably because the cooling effect drew the blood toward the surface. It did not dry completely but still felt a bit sticky when I applied the La Prairie over it. Smooth application, no blotchiness, and no tugging or pilling or rolling of either the product or the foundation. Later Annie told me that it looked pretty good. At this point, we both thought we'd consider a purchase.

Before removing my makeup later that night, I checked my skin in the mirror, still searching for gold. I found one teeny fleck of gold stuck to my skin right above my lips. No lines or cracks or creases in the foundation, but it felt very sticky to the touch. I rubbed my cheek lightly with my fingers. Foundation and primer came rolling off as if I were removing a scrub-type product. In other areas, foundation stuck tenaciously to my skin. I washed my face with my usual cleanser but needed a scrub afterwards to remove everything. The Divinora adheres to the skin better than just about any other primer I've tried so far, does not dry completely, and provides a good adhering base for foundation. I'm not so crazy about the fact that it leaves my foundation feeling sticky. But if you want a pretty product with a nice gimmick, and performs well, this might be one to try. If you ever find out where all that gold is, please let me know.
Product rating, 7.

Review by cavewoman
photo from strawberrynet.com