40 Days and 40 Nights of Fragrance Notes: Bergamot

Something About The Sunshine
by Patti F

The lovely, light bergamot note in perfumes is not usually seen on its own. Unless you take a little trip to Sicily, where you can find a bottle of Bergamotta from a street vendor for about $5 USD. This citrus fruit is grown in the south of Italy in the Calabria region and also in Sicily. From what I've been reading about bergamot, the fruit is grown mostly for perfumery purposes and it is not eaten at all. The scent of bergamot is used to treat depression! And its essence is used as a cure for malaria! On the tree it might more resemble an orange, and is actually categorized as an orange, but the scent of bergamot brings forth a freshly squeezed lemon, peel and all. In the little bottle of Bergamotta, I smell lemon tree flowers. Bergamot notes in fragrances can smell like fresh lemon juice or lemon peel, or sometimes like lemon leaves or lemon tree blossoms. But it is different from a regular lemon note, which can tend to smell sometimes like household cleaning products




In perfumery, bergamot takes its place along with oakmoss and patchouli, the Holy Trinity of notes that make a fragrance a classic chypre. I've loved chypre scents even before I knew the word chypre. Back then we called them woodsy-mossy. My first chypre was the original formula of Cachet by Prince Matchabelli, still absolutely beautiful if you can find it, but stay away from the reformulation that bears no resemblance to the original. My Mom bought me a bottle of Chanel No. 19 when I was a teen, and we both still love and wear it. Chanel also uses bergamot in its lovely, fresh Cristalle. I have a bottle of Cristalle, which I purchased when I found out that Chris Noth (Mister Big) once said that this fragrance can bring him to his knees. Just in case I ever run into him, I'm tucking a vial of Cristalle in my purse.

Dior loves to use bergamot in its fragrances. The Escale series started with Portofino, a breezy, clean scent you might want to try if you wish to capture the feeling of standing on a balcony in the fresh air of that Italian port city. Dior is famous for its green Diorella, a classic chypre with beautiful florals. Guerlain's timeless Jicky starts with bergamot before it brings forth the lavender that is loved by its wearers. One of Guerlain's oldest scents, it still seems totally modern. You'll find bergamot in the hauntingly lovely Apres L'Ondee, too. That is, if you can even find Apres L'Ondee at all.

Bergamot tames the heaviness of the rose notes in Fragonard's Baroque. It adds a lemony-peppery feeling to Acqua Di Parma Profumo, which contains three types of bergamot (source: Barney's website.) Profumo is a fascinating scent that delivers so many levels and layers, starting with the light lemony fizz, and moving through rich florals, ending in satisfying woods. Be careful, though, I've read that there is now a reformulation. I hope it's not true. From Italy you will find many scents with bergamot, including Aqua Di Genova Lady (with a sad wave goodbye to Takashimaya, where I found this gem.) From the markdown tables at TJMaxx, Borsari's Il Mio Sogno was a happy discovery, with light white florals and oakmoss. You'll find bergamot in many Italian perfumes, since it's grown right there in Italy.

The lemony bergamot note dominates the opening of my beautiful Zen by Shiseido. Hard to find, to say the least, Shiseido has lent this name to at least two new fragrances, both of which have nothing at all to do with the original in the gorgeous black bottle. This white floral blend has been a favorite of mine ever since my college roommate insisted that I borrow it from her for a first date with a new beau. She was so worldly and glamourous, of course I took her advice! I dated that young man for a year and purchased my own bottle of Zen. Chinatown by Bond No. 9 begins with bergamot before it gives you its heart of beautiful florals.

Bergamot in fragrances gives an initial appeal, but is not too fruity or clinging. It is not meant to linger, but just to entice. Chances are that many of the perfumes on your own fragrance tray have bergamot in them. From the first known perfumery blends to the latest launch, bergamot is a very important ingredient in perfumery and well-respected as a fragrance note in perfumes all over the world.

Do you have a favorite perfume that contains bergamot?

Disclaimer: All bottles in these photographs were purchased by the writer, with the exception of Jicky and Diorama, which were gifts.
Reviewer: Patti F aka Cavewoman
Photo Credits: Patti F aka Cavewoman
Graphic Credit: Melanie Parker
Title: Ann Margaret's Something About The Sunshine

Blessed Are The Pure of Skin

Day 3: Shiseido Pureness Products
By Melanie Parker

There are a few ways that stress manifests itself in me physically--through my skin texture and hair loss. Both are equally alarming. I made 2009 my year to do some serious damage repair to my skin after experiencing five deaths in my family in less than a year in 2008. So, when Annie decided to do a skincare project for the 40 days of lent in 2010, I am glad that my research and experiences in trying to restore my skin can be shared. I will be focusing on readily available products that work for my aging yet acne prone skin, as well as two types laser therapy treatments I used through the recommendation of my dermatologist.

I first learned about the Shiseido Pureness line years ago and have been using it inconsistently. Whenever I begin getting cystic acne, I always go back to it. This begs the question of why I always opt for the cheap route and stray away from it after it turns my skin around. Not any more. I have learned my lesson and four of these Shiseido Pureness products are my holy grail. If you have oily or combination skin that is prone to breakouts, I recommend trying this line of products for 2 months. I think you will be very pleased with the results.

I use the Shiseido Pureness Deep Cleansing Foam every morning and evening. A little goes a long way. You really don't need more than a pea-sized amount. I like to give the cleanser time to foam up and really do its work, so I sing the alphabet song to myself while lightly massaging the cleanser in a circular motion, making sure to concentrate around my nose and on my chin where I am most prone to acne.

The Shiseido Pureness Matifying Moisturizer is the only moisturizer that I can wear under makeup and trust that it will not clog my pores or make my mineral makeup look chalky. It's especially important in my under eye/cheekbone area where my skin does actually get dry. My T-zone is oily enough that I don't really need additional moisture.

The Shiseido Pureness Balancing Softener Alcohol-Free is a refreshing fluid that leaves my skin feeling soft and hydrated. Although it looks like a toner, I can't really call it a toner since it isn't stripping oil or trying to balance. Instead, it works with the deep cleansing foam to clean and calm my skin. I use about 4 pumps on a cotton pad and swipe my face and chest every night. I do not use it in the morning under makeup, but if my skin was dry and flaky from the winter air, I probably would. My pores look so clean and my skin is so soft and radiant after cleanising using these two products.

After applying the softner in the evening, I use a perscription Tazorac cream on my cheeks and chin where I am trying to refine the texture of my skin. I find the Tazorac works well with the Shiseido Pureness Blemish Clearing Gel applied to active pimples. With these products, active outbreaks are very rare. I make sure to use fresh pillow cases (one day per side, then in the laundry basket they go) and hold the phone away from my chin to prevent irritation. I also try to drink 8 glasses/bottles of water per day. If I eat salty foods, I increase my water intake more to compensate.

Shiseido Pureness products are found at most department stores. There are several other products in the Pureness line that I have not had the opportunity to try. If you have, please leave a comment and let us know your results.

Disclosure: This product was purchased by the reviewer.
Graphic Credit: melanie Parker/Veronica Lake in I Married A Witch
Photo Credit: Blogdorf Goodman

Pushing My Love Over the Borderline

The beauty inspiration for Marc by Marc Jacobs Spring 2010 show was “Punk rock”. All I saw was Bananarama and early Madonna.

Lips were prepped with Aquafor before applying color to the lips. Next, the Perfect Rouge Lipstick in Fuschia (RS320) from the Spring 2009 Line was applied, followed by a high pigment bright pink powder. The lips were completed with a dusting of the Translucent Loose Powder from the Fall 2009 Collection.

Eyes were left completely natural. Dick then used the Natural Eyebrow Pencil from the Fall 2009 Collection if needed.

Credit: Shiseido

The Maestro: Mr Dick Page

Dick Page for Zero + Maria Cornejo S/S 10

Inspiration: Leftover makeup” look and “touch of sun” with Shiseido makeup

Cheeks:
Dick used the Luminizing Satin Face Color Tea Rose (RS302) from the Spring 2010 Collection and applied on the models’ bare skin, just on the cheeks and nose to give a sun-kissed look.

Eyes:
Dick lined the top and bottom lash line with the Smoothing Eyeliner Pencil in Brown (BR602) from the 2009 Fall Makeup Collection. To give the look a little bit of slip, he applied a dab of the Accentuating Color Stick in Champagne Flush (S3) underneath the eyes. After curling the lashes, Dick applied a touch of the Perfect Mascara in Black (BK901) from the Fall 2009 Makeup Collection.
Dick used the Natural Eyebrow Pencil from the Fall 2009 Makeup Collection if the eyebrows were very light and brushed up the hairs simultaneously.

Lips:
Perfect Rouge Tender Sheer Lipstick in Pout (RS326) from the Spring 2010 Collection was applied like a lip liner and patted to fill in the rest of the lip to create a soft, translucent lip.

Credit: Shiseido

Just when you think Blogdorf had exhausted her ravings over Dick Page...

Dick Page has created an exclusive shade of Shiseido Makeup Perfect Rouge for Nordstrom. It is called Perfect Rouge in Rose Bronze. The number is RS799. The lippie is a soft rose toned lipstick with a delicate metallic pearl. It will be available in March thru June of 2009 at Nordstrom retailers. It retails for $25.00

Day 9: More gushing on Dick Page's Genius

What if there were no other lipstick on the world?(Quote from Dick Page in Vogue)

There is a great blurb on the new Dick Page lipsticks in the March issue of Vogue. It appears that Mr Page's goal was to "create the ultimate lipstick wardrobe"-one that a woman reaches for each morning, in the same way she does a favorite piece of jewelry or a pair of shoes". I think he nailed it.
His rose nudes are essential in any lipstick collection. They are like the lippie version of the classic black dress. The lippies are flattering and impossibly chic. The fuchsia is a blue based Schiaparelli pink. It is eye popping.
There are 20 shades ranging from reds to a Tang juicy orange. They retail for $25 and can be found at your local Shiseido counter.


Dick Page used Dragon at Michael Kors Spring 2009 RTW show.

Bubblegum was the lippie of choice at Marc Jacobs Spring fashion show.

Colors shown clockwise: RD 613(chocolate red), PK 303(a gorgeous pink rose nude) and BE 208(an apricot)
Credits: Vogue, Style.com

Disclaimer: A press sample of this product was provided by Shiseido

Dick Page is a a Genius! Perfect Rouge Debuts

Shiseido introduces Perfect Rouge; the first global color collection created by Shiseido Artistic Director, Dick Page. Shiseido Makeup Perfect Rouge brings a whole new meaning to self expression with a comprehensive line of 20 vibrant shades that provide the truest, intense color for a sophisticated and perfectly lustrous look. The luxurious texture smoothes and hydrates for ultra moisturized and vibrant lips.

Patti and I went to our local counter to witness the best lippie of 2009. I know it is too early for "a best of the year" prediction. However, this lippie is quite spectacular and well produced. The Perfect Rouge collection boasts 20 shades ranging from pinky nudes to a beautiful blue red. My personal favorite was Fuchsia. This was a blue based pink that just popped. It was so good that it quite literally hypnotised me. I found it difficult to look away.
The lipstick's texture is ultra rich and feels like silk on the skin.

The red lippies are Sweet Pea, Salon, Cerise(blue red),Valentine, Dragon and Mystery(vampy).
The pink lippies are Tourmaline, Pink Mesa, Ariel(more a sheer carnation shade), and Bubblegum.
The beige lippes are Spiced Cream, Baby, Dune, Almond Pink.
There is a warm orange shade called Day Lily.
The rose Shades are Serenity, Venetian Rose, Titan(a warm & toasty pink), Gilded Wine and Fuchsia. Venetian Rose and Titan are fabulous pink beige shades.

They retail for $25 and are currently available at your Shiseido counter.

Shiseido Makeup Smoothing Lip Pencil $20

Designed to be the perfect complement to the new Shiseido Makeup Perfect Rouge, Artistic Director, Dick Page has created the NEW Shiseido Makeup Smoothing Lip Pencil. This refined lip pencil glides on smoothly and effortlessly for a polished finish in seven new exciting shades.

The lip pencils glide on smooth and are rich in pigment. They also have a well crafted brush on the bottom. The shades are Hazel, Anemone, Mauve, Sakura(pink), Siren(red), Rosewood and Coffee Bean.

Credits: Blogdorf Goodman

Breast Cancer Awareness Month: Lip Gloss with a Cause

Shiseido Pretty Pink Lip Gloss

Shiseido Cosmetics is partnering with CEW’s Cancer and Careers to donate $5 for every unit of Shiseido The Makeup Lip Gloss in Pretty Pink, which will be sold throughout the month of October, in honor of Breast Cancer Awareness Month.

This is a very light wash of a milky pink. It layers well over pink or fuchsia lippies. The formula is what makes it unique. It is hydrating like a lip balm. The product retails for $20.50 and is available online at Macy’s, Nordstroms and Sephora.

Credit: Blogdorf Goodman and CEW
Disclaimer: A press sample of this product was provided by CEW

Shiseido Makeup Multi-Shade Enhancer in Terra-Cotta Glow

This gives a very subtle yet noticeable sun kissed glow. I believe the mixture of gold and champagne shades eliminates the "dirty face" issue I have with most bronzers. This just gives a tinge of sun glow instead of turning into some shade of rust. I tested it with and without foundation to see how held up throughout the day. The performance was pretty remarkable. There was no morphing, caking or disappearing. There is some shimmer but nothing out of the ordinary. It is entirely work-safe and non-shimmer folks will not be annoyed by stray glitters.
Thumbs up from this pale girl.

This can be found at your local Sephora or Shiseido counter for $25. The actual case is purchased seperately for $10.50.
The case is a marvel with satisfying opening and closing snaps with a handy compartment and mini-bronser brush. I played with this thing over and over to see if the bronzer brush would slide out. Each and every time it would slide slowly into the top half of the compact.
I am convinced that heavy engineering went into this compact's construction.
You might also notice that the terra-cotta is not half as scary as it was pictured on the Sephora website. There is no brick red in this bronzer. In reality it is more of a warmer taupe shade.

Credit: Blogdorf Goodman
Disclosure: A press sample of this product was provided by Shiseido

Shiseido's Hydro Powder in Rose Tulle

I am generally a fan of Hydro Powders. I love the light texture, range of pigment levels, variety of shades and its buildability powers. They are easy to blend and are resistant to creasing and disappearance acts. I have always been impressed with Hydo Powder's skills.
It almost acts as an eye primer.

Rose Tulle is the first Hydro Powder that disappointed me greatly.
It is an ultra sheer pink.
A little too sheer.
The pink disappears on my pale skin.
All that shows up is the shimmer.
And the shimmer is nothing to write home about.
This a glistening kind of sparkle.
More wet looking instead of incandescent and on fire.

It retails for $23 and is available at Sephora.

Credit: Blogdorf Goodman
Disclosure: A press sample of this product was provided by Shiseido

Shiseido's Shimmering Lipstick Rouge Irise SL14

This is an ultra sheer pink with iridescent sparkles. The sparkle action is subtle and not overpowering. The glitter is not chunky but it feels slightly grainy on the lips. It contains hydro-wrap Vitalizing DE, which is a moisturizer with great lasting power. This lippie does not dry out my lips like other shimmer based products.

It retails for $22.50 and is available at Sephora.

Credit: Blogdorf Goodman
Disclosure: A press sample of this product was provided by Shiseido

Shiseido White Lucent Brightening Eye Treatment

I have been using this cream every morning to deflect attention from the bags and dark circles. This cream is full of hydrating power with light diffusing properties. This "smoke & mirrors" effect really makes me feel better about my eye area.

The science behind this cream is a thing called "Spot Deacti-Complex".

This is supposed to diminish the look of spots. I have been using this product for several months but my freckles are still loud and proud. They have no budged or lightened.

I am on the fence about the long term effects of this cream.

I am a fan of what it does short term.

It brightens the face and temporarily improves my eye situation.

This retails for $50 and is available at Sephora.

Disclosure: A press sample of this product was provided by Shiseido

Marilyn Manson is a Nars fan

From an interview with The Observer:

Plus he's got really great skin - you've got to admire that. What's his secret?

'Make your body a place where germs are afraid to live.'

We share make-up tips. 'I like Shiseido and Nars,' he says. 'And I liked Mac for a long time, but I thought they might bar me, because my ex-wife is modelling for them now. But they didn't.' They can't stop you buying it, I say. 'Oh, I refuse to buy it! I want it free.'

He doesn't take his make-up off before bed. Ugh, I say. He laughs. 'I have to shave, because I am a man - whatever you may think; but that's about the only thing I do that disturbs my make-up.'

I tell him I like his lipstick. He says he'll find out the colour. 'It's not my usual. For years I was wearing a very specific wine colour.

But this one is my more masculine lipstick, I think. Ha ha!'

Credits: Interview by Polly Vernon

http://observer.guardian.co.uk/magazine/story/0,,2075795,00.html

40 Days and 40 Nights of Beauty Brand Reviews

Day 33, Shiseido

Cavewoman: Six makeup-obsessed girls entered the Sephora store near Macy's NYC one evening. They dipped into testers, sprayed fragrances, swiped shimmery pretty powders on their hands, exclaimed over glosses and glitters, and testified about favorite products. One of these people had a favorite that she happened to be wearing that day. She led us to the Shiseido display and showed us the little jar of Hydro-Powder in WhiteLights. Dabbing and smoothing a bit of this cream shadow on the back of her hand, she showed us why she wears this shadow every day. We checked her hand closely. We checked her beautiful eyes. Every one of us reached to the display, grabbed for ourselves a jar of this magical sparkle, and headed to the checkout.

Shiseido Hydro-Powder is a tiny jar of thick, dense cream shadow that smooths out on the eye for a sheer wash of color. Whitelights is a silvery-white with flecks of particles that sparkle like crushed diamonds. It can be used alone or as a shadow base, it's the perfect highlighter for under the brow, and it is gorgeous worn alone as a wash of lid color. I've never seen anything else quite like it. The teeny particles can take on a multi-color effect under different lighting. The effect is wide-open, bright eyes.
The enabler/gorgeous-eyed WhiteLights wearer was ChattyKathy. The purchasers shall remain anonymous.


Annieytown: I started using the Pureness line in the early 90’s. My friend Michelle insisted that it would help me with my skin issues. I was young and dealing with the trifling problem of acne and blocked pores. From the moment I got on the Pureness program I was hooked. Most of the issues went away and I was left with improved skin. I considered it a minor miracle and was surprised that it was never recommended to me by a dermatologist.
Years later I still use the line along with constantly recommending it to others.

The Pureness skincare collection is gentle and caters to the needs of young complexions. I am not by any means young anymore but the stuff keeps issues at bay…so why upset a good thing?
Pureness contains a “soothing blend of green florals that help to release stress and lower excess oil production.” The cleansers are the mildest I have ever tried. You do not feel like you have stripped away anything essential to your skin. The Pureness Deep Cleansing Foam has non-gritty granules that remove impurities along with heavy duty foundation and primer. It leaves my skin soft, clean and not irritated. The Pureness Refreshing Cleansing Water quickly removes makeup while maintaining skin’s natural balance. I use this formula in the morning as it is light and there is no need to rinse. I follow this by using the Pureness Balancing Softener. This is an alcohol free lotion that gives a fresh sensation similar to a mild toner like Prada. This helps maintain ph balance to help the skin resist acne. I like it because it feels wonderful on my face. It gives you the energy to start the day or in my case…start putting my makeup on.
Before any makeup I use a moisturizer. My Dermatologist informed me that I did not need a moisturizer since my skin was oily. This was not entirely correct. I did need help but with a light hand. I could not have handled something heavy like a La Mer but Pureness Matifying Moisturizer Oil Free was perfect. This lightweight moisturizer is sheer and “absorbs oil for a matte finish as it provides hydration.”

I highly recommend Shiseido skincare to anyone with special needs from acne to aging issues.
I think their skincare is consistent in quality, innovation and price.
It is a solid performing cosmetic and skincare line.

What are your favorite Shiseido products? Let us know in the comments!
Photo: Cavewoman and Blogdorf Goodman

Disclosure: The products were purchased by the reviewers.

40 Days and 40 Nights of Primer Reviews

Primer #38

A recent re-visit to the Shiseido counter had me looking for a primer I used to use, but hadn't seen on display for quite some time. What I did find was a brand new counter display, full of their legendary shimmer shadows, and more primer-type products than any one line I've ever seen. I counted at least five products designed to be worn under foundations, and still I did not see the Pureness Pre-Makeup Cream that I used to use. It seems that this product is now re-packaged under Shiseido The Makeup and is no longer offered as a part of the Pureness line. And, Shiseido has added an SPF 15 to the product, taken it out of the pretty white jar with the blue lid, and packaged it in a squeeze-tube in their signature brown-plum color.

Shiseido The Makeup Pre-Makeup Cream SPF15 is the reformulated product that comes closest to being a true foundation primer than the other five primer-type products on the Shiseido display. Here are the others, one of which I have previously reviewed:
Brightening Veil (see review #9)
Smoothing Veil
Smoothing Veil with SPF 15
Sheer Enhancing Base Opalescent
Sheer Enhancing Base Golden Bronze

I was able to obtain a sample of Shiseido The Makeup Pre-Makeup Cream SPF15, but I felt a bit skeptical. I had not liked the other Shiseido product I reviewed, but I was willing to try this one. I smoothed on this pinkish-white cream and was pleased at how easily and smoothly it covered. It felt comfortable, it disappeared almost completely into my skin, and left a soft finish that felt like velvet. It did seem to diminish the look of my pores and lines, and it did not add any shine. It left the faintest paleness, not the least bit obvious, but just a hint of a brightening of my skin tone. I was able to apply my La Prairie foundation almost immediately. My foundation smoothed on with ease, I needed much less foundation than usual to achieve a complete and even coverage, and there was no streaking or grabbing with the Shiseido Pre-Makeup Cream underneath. I liked the diffused-light effect that I saw. My La Prairie looked luminous and satiny.
My sample package lists titanium dioxide as one of the sunscreen ingredients. It also lists silicones, alcohols, talc, fragrance, and mica. I just want you to be aware of what's in this product. Thankfully, Shiseido offers these small sample tubes at their counters. Snag one of these so you can test for sensitivity.

The Pureness Pre-Makeup Cream was more of just a cream-gel moisturizer. The new version definitely has more line-and-pore minimizing qualities, it has the SPF 15, it gave my skin a luminous, brightened look even with the foundation over top of it, it helped my foundation to stay in place all day, and it felt soft and looked silky. At the end of the day, I did notice just a bit of clumping of my foundation around the nose area, nothing that a touch of my finger did not correct. My cheek areas looked smooth and youthful, not cakey or dry. There was no oily breakthrough on my normally oily areas in the T-zone, and there was no uneven wear of my foundation. And there was no tightness or mattifying that often comes with a more heavy-on-the-silicone formula. I was so pleasantly surprised that here, toward the end of Project Primer, I had found another superb product. Thanks, Shiseido, for adding the SPF 15, since that means there is no need to find a foundation with an SPF or to add another layer of product in terms of sunscreen. It's a great idea.

Product Rating: 9

Review by Cavewoman
Disclosure: This product was purchased by the reviewer, Cavewoman.

40 Days and 40 Nights of Primers

review by cavewoman
photo from amans.com

Day 9 of the 40 days of primer brings me to Shiseido. I found at least 5 primer-type products at the Shiseido counter, and the first one I will review is called Shiseido The Makeup Brightening Veil.

It is a very thick, dense cream, and it comes in a specially designed jar with an inner sealing plastic lid. Application can be done with either a sponge or fingers, but plan to add five minutes to your makeup routine, because it is almost impossible to get product out of this jar. There is little brightening effect. It is so thick that getting an even application is next to impossible. The product appears to be beige in the jar but shows no color on the skin. I'm not sure why Shiseido calls this Brightening. Foundation goes on blotchy and streaky because that is the way this primer goes on.

If you go to the Shiseido counter and check out this product, open that extra little lid inside, the one that protects the product from drying out. You will see that the product itself pulls away from the sides of the container. That is because no matter how you try, no matter how well you press down that little inner lid, this primer starts to dry out within a few weeks of purchase and use. I can't imagine being able to use this primer effectively. I tried for a few weeks and finally gave up.

It is maybe one of the worst I've tried. From one of the great skincare companies in the world, I could not be more shocked at how ineffective this primer is. I have to think no one was in the office the day this product was given the go-ahead!
Product rating, 1.