40 days and 40 Nights of Fragrance Notes: Leather

Hide and Seek: Leather Note

By Melanie Parker

Leather is a traditional note that evokes instant thoughts of luxury. To me, leather scents are reminiscent of the best quality handbags, shoes, riding boots, and that intoxicating new car smell. Cuir, which is French for leather, is the base for many unisex scents.
Leather’s best friends are oud, which is a resin from the Aqui­laria tree, oakmoss, citrus, and tobacco. It also pairs well with heady florals.

The mother of leather scents is Chanel’s Cuir de Russie, which marries iris, jasmine and ylang-ylang with buttery leather. The father of leather scents is probably the luxurious Hermès, which began life as a French saddlery in 1837, and has many fine leathers in its stable, including Equipage, Bel Ami, Calèche, and Kelly Calèche. Somehow, Hermès manages to bottle a Birkin and for that, it belongs in the fragrance Hall of Fame.

One interesting leather scent story comes from the origin of Creed’s Royal English Leather. As Creed’s first fragrance, Royal English Leather was ordered by King George III in 1781. Creed was the king's glove maker and he scented the king's gloves. The king enjoyed the scented gloves so much he commissioned the house of Creed to make it into a body fragrance.

Another interesting phenomenon was the popularity of Tom Ford’s Tuscan Leather, which had a bad boy reputation because it smells like blow. It’s some kind of mind trick that the scent smells like cocaine, because Tuscan Leather is “an original take on a classic leather scent. Saffron, raspberry, and thyme, open to olibanum and night-blooming jasmine,” while “leather, black suede, and amber wood add an intricate richness” according to Katherine Holmes, a spokesperson for Private Blend, Ford’s fragrance line.

Some leather scents worth sniffing:

Bernard Chant’s Aramis
Bulgari Black
Caron’s Tabac Blond
Chanel Cuir de Russie
Christian Dior Diorling
Christian Dior Leather Oud
Creed Royal English Leather
Estee Lauder Azuree
Eyody’s Cuir Blanc (White Leather)
Tom Ford’s Tuscan Leather
Guerlain Habit Rouge EDC
Hermès Bel-Ami
Knize Ten
L’Artisan Dzing!
Le Labo Patchouli 24
Montale Oud Cuir d'Arabie
Odori Cuoio
Parfums de Histoires 1740
Robert Piguet Bandit EDP
Serge Lutens Sarrasins
S Perfumes S-eX
Van Cleef & Arpels Midnight in Paris
Liz Zorn's Cordovan Rose

Sources:
Hide in Plain View by Denise Hamilton: http://www.latimesmagazine.com/2011/01/image-uncommon-scents-hide-in-plain-view.html
Sniff Test by Geoffrey Gray: http://nymag.com/news/intelligencer/35827/
http://www.fragrantica.com/perfume/Creed/Royal-English-Leather-7508.html
Reviewer: Melanie Parker
Graphic Credit: Melanie Parker

40 Days and 40 Nights of Fragrance Notes: Grapefruit

Grapefruit Review by Patti F

When it comes to fruity notes in fragrances, I like stone fruits like plum and peach. I've never been a fan of big citrus notes, especially lemon-peel types. Maybe the proliferation of lemon notes in household products is what causes me to dislike most citrus scents. I especially dislike lime notes in scents, although I love the taste of fresh lime and I use it often in cooking and just floating slices in a glass of water.

But as always with perfumes, there is an exception, and for me it's a big one. I absolutely love a good grapefruit note in a scent. I reach for these when Spring arrives and sometimes in the dead of Winter too, when it's just been too long since we had a warm sunny day, and my spirits need a lift. Lift is what grapefruit does best. Juicy, fizzy, happy, optimistic, the grapefruit note sparkles on the top of some of my most beloved scents. Here today I will do a little Show And Tell for you about my favorite grapefruit fragrances.

My first encounter with a real grapefruit-based scent was Yves Saint Laurent's In Love Again. I was attracted to the cute harlequin design on the cap, because I'm a visually-oriented person, and packaging is important to me. It is the first part of a perfume encounter, we're attracted by our eyes before the scent gets out of the bottle. I had never owned such a happy scent! In Love Again blends the grapefruit with apple, rose, and white florals on a light musk base. It is just as optimistic as its name, hinting forward, not looking back. And believe me, I surely do not want to look back at the past Winter! In Love Again is the nicest companion to greeting Spring. I am sad that the harlequin cap is no longer available on this scent. The other In Love Again that I own is Fleur De La Passion, beautiful with the addition of star anise, peony, and sandalwood with other fruits and a touch of vanilla. And the bottle shape, a heart which only appears when viewed from above, seems to reinforce the love theme. It's love from above! YSL has a way with bottles, as seen in the toy spinning-top Baby Doll, another grapefruit based scent. It's a playful presentation for a youthful and playful scent.

It's no secret to Blogdorf readers that I love Lancome fragrances. Although Miracle does not list grapefruit as one of its notes, I know it's in there! This is my third bottle of Miracle. It's a staple in the Summertime. Spiced up a bit with pepper and ginger, it's lush and zingy and I never get tired of it.
Juicy Couture's Couture Couture (can anyone please explain the name? the name?) is a grapefruit-white floral scent with a gorgeous base of sandalwood. I have to admit that I like all of the Juicy scents, although I am sure that as a 60 year old Grandma, I'm not quite their target audience!

Two of my grapefruit loves came from Bergdorf Goodman many years ago. Friends of mine may remember a presentation of Quelques Fleurs Royale one morning in the Bergdorf Cafe. We had heard of the launch by Houbigant and so many of us were eager to try it. Right during the presentation I stuck out my wrist to the company representative who was holding the bottle and talking about the rich history of Houbigant perfumes. I was too eager to try it to be embarrassed about my bold move. I bought it that day, and I'm on my third bottle of this exquisite, sophisticated floral blend. On another visit to the perfume counters at Bergdorf, I spotted the adorable round pink Lulu Guinness Pink Pearls tester, and I tried it. Love! Lush with pink grapefruit and apricot nectar, a heart of pink tulip and orange flower, and a base of tonka bean, amber and sandalwood, Pink Pearls is sweet and foody without being the least bit heavy or cloying. My Bergdorf fragrance SA told me they were sold out. He'd call me when the perfume was back in stock. I did not wait for the call. I ordered two bottles from a Canadian ebay seller. My Bergdorf buddy never did call.

Bond No. 9 is one of my favorite fragrance brands. The Scent Of Peace is as beautiful on the inside as it is on the outside, a grown-up grapefruit with a light lily-of-the-valley note, and blackcurrant, cedarwood, and musk. It is worn by both men and women, but I'm not sharing what's left of my bottle with my man. He has his own Bonds, including the iconic subway token bottle of Eau De New York. It reminds me of many happy rides through Manhattan in the similarly-clad Bondmobile! My husband has come a long way in his taste in fragrances. When we met, he wore only one scent, Jovan Musk For Men. I'm happy to report that he never wears that one any more. And most days, he reaches for a Bond.

The husband and I both have new Chanels to love, both of which have grapefruit notes. His is Bleu De Chanel, which I gave him for his last birthday which coincided with the launch of Bleu at our local counter. Peppery and rich with vetiver, incense, ginger and sandalwood, I wear this one too. I know you're thinking it's not fair of me to wear his and not let him wear mine. Just a little tidbit of info, the cap is magnetized so that the CC's always line up side to side with the shape of the bottle. Go see for yourself at the men's fragrance bar of your local store!

A few weeks ago, I was talking to my lovely Chanel SA, Chris, at her counter. We were discussing the impending launch of a new group of lipsticks, but I was distracted. What WAS she wearing! Her fragrance was something I'd never smelled before. She told me it was Chance Eau Tendre. How did this scent escape me? I thought I knew all of the Chanel scents and all of their nuances between concentrations, but I did not know Eau Tendre. I sprayed, I sniffed, I bought. With the fizz of grapefruit on the top, a heart of the jasmine that is so important to most of Chanel's scents, iris and hyacinth as if to bring Spring a little closer, and base notes of musk, amber and cedar, Chance Eau Tendre is my newest Chanel love. It made me forget all about the new lipsticks.
I can't stop wearing it and I know it won't be long before I have to purchase the larger size.

Do you love a grapefruit note in your fragrances? Do you have a favorite? Tell us all about them!

Disclaimer: The fragrances in the photos and in this review were all purchased by the reviewer, with the exception of two items that were gifts.

Reviewer: Patti F aka Cavewoman

Graphic Credit: Melanie Parker

40 Days and 40 Nights of Fragrance Notes: Vetiver

Review by Ceil

Oil extracted from the roots of vetiver are used in perfumery often as a fixative in the base of a fragrance. But there are also many vetiver fragrances that feature and celebrate this unique smell. Vetiver is a note that can be earthy, dry, citrus-like, green, woody and astringent. But, besides the quality of the oil, and where and what conditions it is grown in, what vetiver is combined with can very much change the feel and energy of the smell produced. Some of my favorite fragrances are based on vetiver as the feature note. And it seems to be a note that is used quite often in men’s colognes, but there are also unisex and feminine fragrances that are absolutely wonderful. I think that vetiver is especially nice to wear in hot weather, and can be quite refreshing.

One of my favorite vetiver fragrances really personifies the plant. Frederic Malle’s Vetiver Extraordinaire opens with a dry astringent blast of green “in your face” vetiver root. I think of it as the vetiver counterpart to Serge Lutens Iris Silver mist. It is intense, but unusually subtle at the same time. Green and earthy…but fresh and new feeling at the same time, it is an amazing fragrance that has my personal devotion. Apart from this “benchmark” vetiver there are many other blended, toned down, cleaner, woodier, herbier variations on the use of vetiver. I personally love most of these fragrances in their own right. And the exploration of vetier fragrances is a very fun journey that I hope you will take.

Here are some good ones to try:

Guerlain Vetiver: a classic for sure. It is blended with wood, tobacco and spice notes but the vetiver is still quite prominent. It is quite a favorite for both men and women.

Creed Vetiver: is soapy, clean, green and grassy. This is not to be confused with: Creed Original Vetiver: which is green, rootier, brighter and has a citrus aspect to it. It has Ginger, mandarine and bergamot for top notes and iris as a mid note. I personally am a huge fan of this one. I would say that the Creed’s are unisex to masculine oriented.

Jo Malone makes a very nice light totally unisex vetiver. It is super fresh, clean and “very vetiver”. Quite true to the note. It is perfect for layering when you want to add this note to another fragrance, and on it’s own it is totally refreshing. A very fun variation on vetiver is Jo Malones Black Vetyver café…which blends vetiver with a coffee note.

L’Occitaine en Provence makes a men’s vetiver cologne that has vetiver blended with rosemary and cypress. It is very woody and herbaceous with a more blended quality rather than having the vetiver as a prominent note.

Prada makes a vetiver fragance also, Infusion de vetiver. You may find it in the men’s cologne section rather than women’s fragrance. But I find this one to be very very unisex also. It is a woodier version and reminds me of Infusion d’iris with vetiver added in.

One of my very favorite vetivers is Armani Prive Vetiver Babylone. I have heard people say that they get very little vetiver from this one…but I personally get vetiver that is lovely clean and woody that lasts most of the day for me. It’s fresh, peppery and bright. I personally like fragrances that don’t last until the evening so that I have a choice to either respray or change my scent. And this one lasts perfectly on me. ….can you tell I love it?!

There are just sooo many vetiver fragrances to explore and I’d love to know what you have tried and liked. But I will end with another of my favorites that I also think is one of the most unusual vetivers out there. The Different Company’s Sel de vetiver. The notes are grapefruit, patchouli, cardamom, geranium, Haitian vetiver, and ylang ylang. But it is primarily a representation of salt. And this combination is fascination and fabulous for sure!

Reviewer: Ceil

Disclosure: The products reviewed in this post were purchased or sniffed by the reviewer

Graphic Credit: Melanie Parker

40 Days and 40 Nights of Fragrance Notes: Orange Blossom and Neroli

Orange Blossom Special
By Jessica M

There are so many flowers associated with springtime, but one of my favorites is the bloom of the orange tree. Orange blossoms are tiny, white, and star-shaped. They are highly fragrant, and they were traditionally worn and carried by brides. (Very appropriately, the orange blossom is also the Florida state flower!)

Natural perfumer Mandy Aftel has described the bitter orange tree as a “veritable cottage industry for the perfumer,” because its parts can be used in so many different ways. The peels of the oranges yield orange oil; the tree’s twigs and leaves give us petitgrain; and the blossoms are processed to create both neroli absolute and orange flower absolute.

Neroli absolute is produced when orange flowers are distilled with water. It was reportedly named in honor of a princess of Nerola, Italy, who set a trend in the seventeenth century by using this essence to scent her gloves, her bathwater, and so on. Neroli has a slightly citrus-fruity scent, but more than anything, it’s like liquid sunshine. If it were a color, it would certainly be golden.

Orange flower absolute is extracted by processing the blossoms with solvents rather than distilling them with water or steam. Even though it comes from the same plant, orange flower essence ends up smelling noticeably different from neroli. It’s still fresh and bright, but definitely more flowery. Sometimes it has a faint hint of creaminess. It’s just a little bit sensual, but in an upbeat, approachable way; it’s never overwhelming in the way that other white florals (like tuberose or even jasmine) can be.

Neroli and orange flower both blend well with other floral and fruity notes, as well as spice and woods, so they show up frequently in fragrance (sometimes as natural essences, sometimes as synthetic recreations). Perfumers also tend to combine neroli and orange blossom in the same scent; where you smell one, you might very well smell the other. Keeping that in mind, let’s name a few neroli and/or orange blossom fragrances to enjoy...

Neroli:
Annick Goutal Neroli
Atelier Cologne Grand Neroli
Diptyque L’Eau de Neroli
Pacifica Nerola Orange Blossom
Tom Ford Neroli Portofino

Orange Blossom:
Ayala Moriel Zohar
Bourbon French Parfums Orange Blossom
Jo Malone Orange Blossom Cologne
Lush (Gorilla Perfumes) Orange Blossom
Penhaligon’s Orange Blossom (Anthology collection)

Disclosure: The perfumes mentioned in this post were purchased (or sampled in stores) by the reviewer.
Reviewer: Jessica M
Quotation: Mandy Aftel, “Essence and Alchemy,” page 114.
Photo Credits: Mockingbird and Orange Blossoms, via Art.com. Orange blossom and oranges, via Wikimedia Commons.
Graphic Credit: Melanie Parker

40 Days and 40 Nights of Fragrance Notes: Amber

Amber smells like a thick, sweet, resinous cloud of vanilla earth.
It begins with a band-aid (camphor) opening and is peppered with leather and dark woods.
It is a particular weakness of mine.
I am a "weak as water" kind of girl! I go swoony for tea, violet, rose, hay, heliotrope, incense, iris, ambrette seed, black hemlock, whatever the hell is in JAR's Diamond Waters, and jasmine fragrance notes.
Amber is pure liquid comfort. It is like a scent blanket. It envelopes you with a layer of sweetness and velvety labdanum.

Paul and Joe's Bleu is a magnificent amber symphony. It is syrup-thick amber with a drydown of a "boxing clever" leather. It has so much to love in the mix. The notes are bergamot, cilantro, caraway, cardamom, ylang-ylang, jasmine, rose, magnolia, heliotrope, patchouli, vetiver, oud, myrrh, sandalwood, incense, vanilla, and the glorious amber.

Serge Lutens Ambre Sultan is a naughty minx of an amber. This one is dirty.
My co-workers have stated that Ambre Sultan smells exactly like Puerto Rico wine. I have never tasted or smelled this cocktail. I will hazard a guess that it is dangerously strong and delicious.

Anne Pliska is a lavish old school amber surrounded by this orange haze of heaven.

Hermes Ambre Narguile is a more gourmand amber. It is joined by a sweet caramel and boozy rum note.

Other Ambers:
Balmain Ambre Gris
Tom Ford Amber Absolut
Serge Lutens Rousse
Fredéric Malle Musc Ravageur
Byredo M/Mink
Chanel Allure
IPdF Ambra del Nepal: Only the original. The reformulations have not been kind.
L'Artisan L'Eau d'Ambre
Gaultier2
Diptyque Tam Dao
Rochas Absolut
Giorgio Armani Ambre Soie: This one is good!!!!!!
Prada L'Eau Ambrée

Dish about your favorite amber in the comments!

Reviewer: Annie
Graphic Credit: Melanie Parker
Disclosure: Fragrances featured have been purchased by the reveiwer over the years.

40 Days and 40 Night of Fragrance Notes: Tea

I got nasty habits, I take tea at three



I have a fascination with tea based fragrances. Tea smells like comfort, leaves, chestnuts and smoke.

My favorite tea scent is Takashimaya's T. It is all kinds of smoke and a thick black tea. It is a hot piping cup of sinister and mystery. It would be the perfect fragrance to wear on the Orient Express or in a Poirot novel.
L'Artisan's Tea For Two is a a whole vat of honey with just a spot of tea. I think the brash honey note scares people off. It is a slightly difficult fragrance to wear.

Susanne Lang's Exotic Tea is a smoldering tea bag. This is a great fall scent. Full of dry leaves and the beginnings of a bonfire.

Barney's Route Du The is a green tea that borders on a cleaning solution. Not a fan.

The new Jo Malone Tea series are pretty fabulous.
The fragrances are Assam & Grapefruit, Earl Grey & Cucumber, Fresh Mint Leaf, Sweet Lemon and Sweet Milk. Sweet milk is my early favorite. It has a toasty almond note with anise and creamy milk.

Other Tea Fragrances:

Elizabeth Arden Green Tea
L'Occitane Green Tea and Jasmine
CB I Hate Perfume Russian Caravan Tea
Elizabeth W Sweet Tea
Comme des Garcons Series 1: Leaves Tea
Comme des Garcons Series 7: Nomad Tea
Amouage Epic Woman
Creed Fleur de Thé Rose Bulgare
Diptyque Eau Duelle

Tell us about your favorite tea fragrances in the comments.
Also if you are a tea fan...dish about your new tea discoveries. I am looking for something new!

Reviewer: Annie
Graphic Credit: Melanie Parker
Disclosure: All products reviewed were purchased by the reviewer.
Title: Rolling Stones

A Tribute To Elizabeth Taylor

By Melanie Parker

"I adore wearing gems, but not because they are mine. You can't possess radiance, you can only admire it." -Elizabeth Taylor

The British-American actress Elizabeth Taylor passed away on March 23, 2011 due to congestive heart failure. In her youth, her striking violet eyes and raven hair thrust her into stardom in such roles as National Velvet and Lassie.

She went on to become a style icon and personified glamour in the 1950s with her fair skin, short dark hair, red lips, bewitching eyes, and hourglass figure. In a sea of blondes, she stood out from the crowd. And she garnered serious acting roles in epic movies such as Giant, Cat on a Hot Tin Roof, and tipped the scales earning $1 million to star in Cleopatra.


By the 1970s, her love affairs made her the subject of tabloid fodder. She battled addictions and struggled with her weight. In 1988, Taylor had regained control of her weight and self image, and wrote a book about it called Elizabeth Takes Off: On Weight Gain, Weight Loss, Self-Image, and Self-Esteem. This was the first diet and lifestyle book that I had ever read. I went from thinking of her as the fat drunk that comedians like Joan Rivers liked to rip on, to a wonderfully insightful and compassionate woman, who was simply bored with her life as a senator’s wife and had let herself go. She shared her struggles with honesty and, more importantly, focused on how eating fruits and vegetables and staying active was vital to being healthy. She served as an inspiration to women who had real weight problems in the wake of Jane Fonda’s aerobic videos.

Another book of hers that provides some amazing eye candy and a glimpse into her life is 2002’s My Love Affair with Jewelry, in which Elizabeth shares actual sized photos of her extensive jewelry collection and anecdotes about how she came to possess some of the loveliest jewels in the world.

Elizabeth was also one of the first celebrities to have their own scent available to the masses. Her White Diamonds fragrance, which was launched in 1991, is still the best-selling celebrity endorsed perfume. White Diamonds, and her spin-off scents including Black Pearl and Passion, brought in $76.9 million globally in 2010. Known by the iconic golden egg of sweet-smelling juice with the pave crystal bow, a bottle of White Diamonds was the go-to gift for women in the 1990s with its lovely floral chypre and powdery, sweet dry down. Many of those original fans have made it their signature scent over the past 20 years and it continues to sustain its customer base.

In recent years, she proved to be a fighter who set out to get things accomplished—especially in regard to providing quality of life to those suffering from HIV/AIDS. Although her bios are flanked with all of the elaborate gifts she had received in her lifetime and the roles she won and lost, her true legacy is in the giving that she did at a time when the gay community didn’t have much of a voice. She was a staunch advocate and blazed a trail to provide funding for research that really did save millions of lives. She never stopped giving, and her businesses and books will continue to raise money for her very worthwhile cause, the Elizabeth Taylor AIDS Foundation.

Some things to remember about Elizabeth:

She was active on Twitter (as DameElizabeth) in her late 70s, embracing the technology of an iPad and social networking to raise awareness for her causes. She wrote, “You are who you are. All you can do in this world is help others to be who they are and better themselves and those around them.”

She fought for her friends. Long after friends like Rock Hudson and Michael Jackson were gone, she showed her unconditional love and acceptance for who they were without reservation.

In the aftermath of Hurricane Katrina in New Orleans, Elizabeth sought ways to reach out to the AIDS community in that area. She then partnered with Macy’s to donate a 37 foot "CareVan," which was deployed to provide vital care to the HIV/AIDS community in the Gulf Coast. The NO/AIDS Task Force was also gifted with a check for $40,000 from Elizabeth Taylor and the Elizabeth Taylor AIDS Foundation.

Her family has asked that memorial contributions be made to her foundation.

Written by Melanie Parker

Photo Credits: Unknown/Blogdorf Goodman

40 Days and 40 Nights of Fragrance Notes: Iris

What does the iris note smell like?
I think it smells rooty and slightly powder-like.
It can be confused with violets but it is less candied or green. It is more bitter, damp and earthy.
I have seen it described as carrot-like, papery, raw potatoes, woody, soapy,or plummy.

Mr Luca Turin describes iris more romantically and quite simply perfect. This is from his review of Frederic Malle's Iris Poudre in Perfume The Guide.
For the fragonerds it is located on page 205.
"Simply stated, the problem with iris-root smell is this: everyone loves its gray, nostalgic, romantic powderiness, but the stuff is, truth be told, as funereal as it gets."
It has a gossamer effect in fragrances. It adds just a hint of mystery or macabre.
Iris is an "extract of the root of the iris plant". It is also known as orris. There is plenty of debate about what makes an iris. To put it simply....a village of notes and science creates a iris scent.

My personal favorite iris scent is Frederic Malle's Iris Poudre. Many would argue that it does not really capture an iris feeling. I get the diaphanous powdery goodness in the drydown. So delicate and enchanting.
Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist is considered the benchmark of all iris fragrances. Luca Turin states that Uncle Serge insisted that the perfumer, Maurice Roucel, go "balls to the walls" with iris. Turin describes it as the most sinister of all the iris scents. It is not dark but ethereal.

Other Iris Fragrances:

Chanel's 28 La Pausa: a more green soapy iris with a vetiver drydown
Chanel 31 Rue Cambon: earthy iris with a amber drydown.
L'Artisan Bois Farine: I get more peanut butter and heliotrope...but there is iris peeking through.
CdG Zagorsk
Chanel 18 and 19
Le Labo Iris 39
Guerlain's Iris Ganache
Acqua di Parma Iris Nobile: Almost candied iris with a box green. Detect a bit of anise.
The Different Company Bois d'Iris: A more floral iris with anise, dry grass and woods.
DKNY Delicious Night
Hermes Hiris
Dior Homme
SMN Iris
Prada Infusion D'Iris
Thierry Mugler's Alien

What are your favorite iris fragrances? Please share them in the comments.
Also tell me what iris scents that I neglected to mention!


Reviewer: Annie
Quote: Luca Turin from Perfume The Guide by Tania "Tbone" Sanchez and Mr T.
Graphic Credit: Melanie Parker
Disclosure: I have purchased all three of my Iris Poudre bottles. Hardcore fan.
All samples sniffed at stores or through my makeupalley stash.

40 Days and 40 Nights of Fragrance Notes: Karo Karounde

Going To The Chapel
by Patti F aka Cavewoman

So far in our 40 Notes In 40 Days, we've been sticking to the most well-known fragrance notes. As I was looking over my perfume bottles to see what I'd like to write about, I spotted a fragrance that has been such a favorite of mine that I'm on my third bottle. And it is one that I reach for every year around this time, when we get to say goodbye to Winter and we welcome Spring! (Good riddance to this horrible Ohio Winter!)

I wore Panthere by Cartier on my wedding day. We were married late in the day, and I had stopped at Neiman Marcus to pick up some cosmetics. We were in Las Vegas and I was at the Fashion Show Mall. It may have been my first time in a Neiman Marcus store, and I was truly dazzled. I stopped at the perfume counters to sniff around, and was totally enchanted by Panthere with is big vanilla presence. I bought it and wore it that evening when I said "I do!" to the man. Years later, no longer wearing Panthere (because my Mother-In-Law had discovered it on my perfume tray and had taken the liberty of spraying herself) I noticed a new edition of Panthere, called Eau Legere, at Nordstrom. I wondered if it would be different enough that my husband would not think I smelled like his mother. I sprayed it on my wrists and bought it within twenty minutes. Panthere Eau Legere is nothing like Panthere. I did not know what I was smelling but I knew it was love. Even the SA did not know the notes (which was rare for a Nordstrom SA because most of them are CFSS certified.) It was fresh, light, flowery and breezy.

A few years after the Vegas wedding, which is my husband's favorite town in the entire USA, I figured it was time to take him to MY favorite town, New York City. We boarded the Amtrak and had a lovely trip. I took him to his first Broadway show,Guys & Dolls, with Nathan Lane and Faith Prince. I introduced him to Gallaghers Steak House and the Carnegie Deli, and the secret wonder of La Mela, my favorite Italian restaurant that so far had not been discovered by tourists. We were sad to head to Penn Station on our last day in New York, but lo and behold, was this a perfume store in Penn Station? Yes! And with my final few minutes in New York, I spotted a fragrance I had never heard of before, and wanting a new perfume to take home as a memento of the trip, I tested it, loved it, bought it, and brought it home. That fragrance was Joop!Berlin, and I am now on my second bottle. Joop!Berlin is a green floral with sparkling aldehydes, tropical fruits, white flowers, and a gorgeous base of tonka, caramel, sandalwood and vanilla. No wonder I still love it.

Doing research on these two scents brought me some fascinating information on a floral note which I discovered is common to both of these scents. The note is Karo Karounde. This flowering shrub from Africa is often compared to jasmine, but without the sting and sharpness that comes in some jasmines. I found out that the karo karounde note is considered to be an an aprhodisiac and that it is used in rituals of sexual magic in the Congo (source: profumo.it) -- yikes! Karo karounde can smell chocolatey or ripe-fruity. It has been described as somewhere between jasmine and tuberose. To me, it definitely leans more to the jasmine side.

Probably the most well-known fragrance containing the karo karounde note is Pleasures by Estee Lauder. This beautiful floral has stood the test of time. It is still one of their best sellers since its successful launch in 1996, as clean as could be, with that touch of green on the top and the flow of light-hearted florals in the middle. What you are smelling is that lovely karo karounde. It is also present in Lauder's beautiful chypre, Knowing. Sitting on its base of oakmoss, the karo karounde lifts this scent from being too deep. It's one of the lighter chypres in a category where the word "light" seldom appears.

A few years ago, a good friend who also loves fragrances returned from a trip to Las Vegas (!) with a gift for me, which he had purchased because the name on the bottle was pretty close to my own name. I had never heard of Marella Ferrera, but the bottle was lovely and so was the scent inside. Ferrera, a fashion designer from Catania, designed this scent to companion her chic, understated garments. It's a rich white floral blend, centering on the karo karounde note, and adding lush fruit notes of apricot and spicy notes of caraway and cumin. Gardenia gives a creamy effect, and sandalwood and amber add some exotic touches to the base.

I have to speak of one more fragrance that contains the karo karounde note, L'Artisan's Timbuktu. I wanted to try it out before I wrote this review. Thank goodness Ms. Blogdorf had a sample in her stash. I dabbed it on this morning. If there is indeed any karo karounde in this scent, it is totally drowned out by the resinous, car fluid smell that came from my wrist. I assure you I was not under the hood of the Honda this morning. I cannot go further in reviewing Timbuktu because I ran for the antiperspirant to remove any trace of that scent on my wrist. It was almost too late, I had already become nauseous.

But now, the offending dab is gone, and I'm happily enjoying the last day of Winter in Ohio, a beautiful warm sunny afternoon, Pleasures on my wrists, and wondering if any Blogdorf readers know of the karo karounde flower and its lovely perfumes. Tell us in the comments!

Disclaimer: All fragrances in these photos were either purchased by the reviewer or given to her as gifts.
Reviewer: Patti F
Photo Credit: Patti F
Graphic Credit: Melanie Parker

40 Days and 40 Nights of Fragrance Notes: Almond

Almond Joy
By Jessica M

I love the taste of almonds, whenever and wherever they show up---a handful or raw or salted almonds is a perfect snack, and I’m also a big fan of almond butter on toast, chewy almond confections like marzipan, nougat, or macarons, or just a sip of amaretto after a special dinner.

Without even realizing that I was doing it, I’ve also gathered and used many body products and home fragrance products scented with almond, and now I’m noticing that this note has become a stealth favorite in my perfume collection, too.

The almond tree, with its delicate pink or white blossoms, is native to the Mediterranean and the Middle East; in the United States, almonds are grown in California. The almond nut is, technically speaking, the seed of the almond fruit. I find its flavor difficult to describe. It’s smooth and a tiny bit sweet, but also dry and almost floury.

In fragrance, almond is a less dessert-like alternative to vanilla: it can make a perfume “gourmand,” without pouring on the sugar and syrup. Of course, it can also be intensified with the addition of other notes, so that it turns buttery or creamy. Perfumes often combine almond with vanilla, with musk, or with cherry---occasionally, with all three!

Here are some almond-inspired fragrances to try, ranging from light to rich:

L'Artisan Parfumeur Jour de Fête
Acorelle Amande de Blé
Carol's Daughter Almond Cookie
Lush Snowcake (limited edition)
Ava-Luxe Amande
Crazylibellule & the Poppies Vanilla Macarons
Serge Lutens Louve
Calypso St. Barth Léa
Acqua di Parma Mandorlo di Sicilia
Dior Hypnotic Poison

Do you have a favorite almond scent? Feel free to share in the comments!

Disclosure: The perfumes mentioned in this post were purchased (or sampled in stores) by the reviewer.
Reviewer: Jessica M
Photo Credits: The Almond Harvest (California), via Art.com. Almonds, via Wikimedia Commons.
Graphic Credit: Melanie Parker

40 Days and 40 Nights of Fragrance Notes: Beach Scents

I have a personal weakness for beach inspired fragrances. It might have something to do with the fact that Ohio is...well...Ohio.

There is no ocean breeze or sandy beach in the buckeye state. No one better dare bring up Lake Erie...or I will jump through this computer to get you.
If you are a regular reader of this blog, then you have heard us moan countless times about the snow and cold. To be quick and to the point...Ohio's weather sucks.
Beach scents deliver surf and sand to Ohio. They smell like suntan lotion, sand, sun, coconut, frangipani, salt, water and driftwood.

There are many beach scents worth mentioning. One of my favorites is Estee Lauder's Tom Ford Azuree/Bronze Goddess. I have hoarding issues with this fragrance. It is an oil that is sweetened with a tropical tiare flower.

From my review on June 3rd 2006: The Azuree Body Oil is a modern interpretation of the 1969 original. The updated version is "built around a tiare milk accord that comprises Tahitian gardenia petals mixed with coconut and orange blossoms and warmed with vetiver, sandalwood and myrrh." The tropical gardenia note is very creamy with crisp orange blossoms. The vetiver is very green and fresh. The original fragrance had fresh citrus and floral notes with a heart of basil and spearmint and a dry down of oak moss and deep woods.

Lauder's Azuree Soleil/Bronze smells like sunkissed skin. Nars Monoï Body Glow II also has this suntan lotion vibe. It is a tropical mixture of coconut and Tahitian gardenia. Both these oils have great subtle, wafting sillage.

Another great "sun-baked skin" scent is Bond 9's Fire Island. It was influenced by Ambre Solaire suntan lotion. It has a green neroli note with a slightly dirty musk drydown. Crazy good.
The other beach scents from Bond 9 are Hamptons, Coney Island (carnival-like) and Andy Warhol Montauk (driftwood).

CB I Hate Perfume's At The Beach 1966 is the grandest of the beach fragrance genre. It is seashells, sandy beach, suntan lotion and the ocean. CB captures every memory and moment in scent. From a fresh snow to the air before a thunderstorm. This beach is every vacation you have ever taken. Magical.

Bobbi Brown's Beach is a gloomy day on the beach. It is grey skies, more sand, ocean spray, pebbles and a light sweater.
Michael Stars had a fragrance ages ago. It was a floral tuberose lei meets rocky sandy beach explosion.

CSP's Vanilla Frangipane is a long discontinued gem from my Makeupalley Fragrance board days. My decant was gifted to me by the great Autumn/Tealief. It was the most incredible vanilla tropical concoction. Delicious and sultry.

Lovers of beach fragrances...Let us know your favorites in the comments!

Reviewer: Annie
Graphic Credit: Melanie Parker
Disclosure: The products mentioned in this review have been purchased, gifted or sniffed by the reviewer.
Bobbi Brown's Beach and some of the Azuree bottles were provided by the companies.

Drugstore Deals and Steals

For March 20th Through March 26 2011

CVS

Almay: Buy 1,get 1 50% off all cosmetics with CVS card
L'Oreal: Youth Code serum, day lotion, ye or night cream is priced at $22 with CVS card
Youth Code Starter kit is priced at $30 with CVS card
Spend $20 get $5 extra CVS bucks when you purchase L'Oreal Youth Code with CVS card
L'Oreal Telescopic, Voluminous Million Lashes, Bare Naturale mascara, True match foundation, powder, blush or concealer(excludes compact & roller) are priced at $7 each with CVS Card
Spend $15 and get $5 extra CVS bucks when you purchase L'Oreal eye or face cosmetics with CVS card
Neutrogena: Spend $25 and get $10 extra CVS bucks when you purchase Neutrogena skin care with CVS card. Excludes sun care.
Maybelline: 2 for $10 on Maybelline Color Sensational Lip Or Falsies Volum'Express Mascara with CVS card
Physicians Formula: 40% off all cosmetics with CVS card
Milani: Buy 1,get 1 50% off all cosmetics with CVS card

Walgreens

RoC: Buy 1,get 1 50% off all Retinol Correxion skin care
Maybelline: Buy 1,get 1 50% off all Maybelline foundation, concealer, powder, blush or lip cosmetics
Almay: 30% off on all Almay cosmetics
Neutrogena:25% off on Neutrogena Facial Moisturizers, lip, Naturals or lotions
Revlon: Buy 1,get 1 50% off all Revlon foundation, concealer, powder, blush, lip or nail cosmetics
Target

Essie: Nail color is priced at $7.79
L'Oreal: Studio Secrets One Sweep eye shadow is priced at $8.99
CoverGirl: NaturalLuxe liquid foundation is priced at $9.94
Clean & Clear: Advantage Popped Pimple Relief Drying Paste is priced at $5.39
Neutrogena: Rapid Wrinkle Repair Night Moisturizer is priced at $19.99

Rite Aid

L'Oreal: Buy 1,get 1 50% off all cosmetics with Rite Aid Wellness Card
Buy 1,get 1 50% off all L'Oreal skin care with Rite Aid Wellness Card
*$4+UP Reward when you purchase 2 L'Oreal skin care products with Rite Aid Card
Revlon: $2.00 off regular retail on eye cosmetics with Rite Aid Wellness Card
Buy 1,get 1 50% off all Revlon lip cosmetics with Rite Aid Wellness Card
CoverGirl: 40% off on all mascara with Rite Aid Wellness Card
Buy 1,get 1 50% off all CoverGirl lip cosmetics with Rite Aid Wellness Card
Maybelline: Buy 1,get 1 50% off all lip cosmetics with Rite Aid Wellness Card
Physicians Formula: Buy 1,get 1 50% off all cosmetics with Rite Aid Wellness Card
$1.00 off Manufacturer's coupon available in most Sunday papers
Almay: Buy Almay Intense Eye Color and get Eye Makeup Remover pads 80 ct for FREE with Rite Aid Wellness card

40 Days and 40 Nights Of Fragrance Notes: Oudh

Oudh by Ceil
aka MUA's Tussah

Well… I realize that there are experts that can tell you the details about and the history of Oudh in much greater detail and can give you an encyclopedic listing of fragrances that feature oudh. But, I am not going to attempt to cover this very fascinating perfume/note with that kind of expertise. I will instead tell you how I got interested in oudh and how I feel about it.

Oudh is a very personal and emotion note in perfumery. Very few fragrance friends of mine feel ambivalent about it. It’s love/hate all the way…and from what I’ve smelled in most commercial fragrances I have to say it is a note that I both adore and dislike at the same time. How it’s handled and the quality make an amazing difference in the final scent.

One of…if not the most expensive natural ingredient in perfumery is oil of Agarwood. Oudh. Used for centuries for religious, spiritual, medicinal purposes and in perfumery, oil from the resinous heartwood of Aquilaria and Gyrinops trees is a precious commodity. These evergreen trees from Asia become infected with a mold. In response to this they form a resinous substance in the heartwood of the tree from which the Agarwood essential oil is extracted. This aromatic oil has ancient and modern use for perfumery and incense. The rarity of this oil is due to depletion of the trees that are the natural source for this oil. There are now also synthetic aromachemical versions of this note as well, which is a much more affordable, but not the same way to introduce this representation of the natural oil into a perfume.

I got interested in wanting to smell “good quality” natural Agarwood/oudh fragrances from reading descriptions of it’s fascinating beauty. And…interested in reading about the huge difference that the quality of ingredients make to that smell. Quality oudh can smell woody, incense-y, sweet and rich, smoky, floraly resinous, and fruity, in a rich long lasting multifaceted way. The smell is calming and richly beautiful. Poor quality oil can produce oily, sharp, leathery, sour and bitter smells. Smells that are acrid and irritating.

I finally got to try this good quality oudh…and it is stunningly beautiful, and lasts days on the skin. I have yet to find a commercial fragrance that comes close. I also have the synthetic aromachemical and it is pleasant but thin, and not really any comparison to the real thing. But for the price, I use it, and can certainly see why it is used in commercial perfumery.

Oudh seems to be quite the popular ingredient these days in fragrance. Some I personally like and others not so much. I will say with the variations in quality and types of chemicals natural and synthetic, it is always worth trying oudh fragrances. They vary so very much, and react so individually with body chemistry that you never know how it will turn out on you until you really test it for yourself. Something that can smell really questionable on a blotter card can turn into something truly lovely when applied on the skin…and vice versa.

I have a love affair with natural quality oudh however…it’s stunningly gorgeous on or off of the skin. It is the stuff of dreams to me….beautiful, resinous, magical and spirtual.

Review by Ceil aka Tussah
Graphic Credit: Melanie Parker

40 Days and 40 Nights Of Fragrance Notes:Tuberose

The tuberose, with her silvery light,
That in the gardens of Malay
Is call'd the Mistress of the Night,
So like a bride, scented and bright;
She comes out when the sun's away.
- Thomas Moore,
Lalla Rookh--Light of the Harem

The best description of the tuberose note is from Luca Turin in Perfumes The Guide. It is located in his review for By Kilian's Beyond Love. Page 92 for the fragonerds.

"Not only is the smell of tuberose flowers wonderful, it isn't even, properly speaking, floral in the clean, vegetal sense of floral fragrances. Tuberoses smell of butter, rubber, leather, blood, and heaven knows what else".

Tuberose is strong, sweet, exotic, illicit, tenacious and heady. It is a slightly rubbery, loud, creamy white floral that has a Dr Pepper vibe. It is simply glorious.
The tuberose is a night blooming plant. Tuberose has a mistress of the night kind of reputation.
My favorite tuberose fragrance is Frederic Malle's Carnal Flower.
I have gushed about this fume on this blog before.

"This summer I fell very hard for Frederic Malle's Carnal Flower. This Malle has the highest amount of natural tuberose absolute in any fragrance. I am a girl that shys away from Fracas and any other tuberose based fragrances. They are too loud for me. Carnal Flower manages to be a loud whisper. No baseball bat impact for me! It has wonderful sillage and the dry down is gorgeous. Like a lush jungle. It was beyond perfect for this summer".

A legendary tuberose perfume is Fracas by Robert Piguet. This is a buttery tuberose with a soapy dry down. It was worn by Marilyn Monroe.
Michael by Michael Kors is the holy grail scent of my boss. It smells like power. The tuberose is strong in this juice. The sillage wafts through the office. It can breed fear.
By Kilian's Beyond Love is a greenish tuberose with a dollop of coconut. Slightly tropical with a camphorous (band aid) opening. Pilar & Lucy's Tiptoeing Through Chambers Of The Moon is a candied tuberose. Almost sugary. Serge Luten's Tuberose Criminelle starts out with an opening of gasoline and ends with just buttery heaven.
But those first few minutes are rough.
It will make you shudder and give up.
Be patient.
True heartbreakingly loveliness soldiers on through that opening!

Tuberose Fragrances

The Best: Frederic Malle's Carnal Flower
The Legends: Fracas, Creed's Tubereuse Indiana, Serge Lutens Tuberose Criminelle
Others:
L'Artisan Nuit de Tubereuse
Michael by Michael Kors
Diptyque Do San
By Kilian Beyond Love
Marc Jacobs
Pilar & Lucy Tiptoeing Through Chambers Of The Moon
Etat Libre Vierges et Toreros
Parfums Del Rae Amoureuse
Annick Goutal Tubereuse
Keiko Mecheri Tuberose
Toykomilk French Kiss
Miller Harris Noix de Tubereuse
Comme des Garcons Daphne

Dish in the comments on your favorite Tuberose fragrances.

Reviewer: Annie
Credit: Annie
Graphic Credit: Melanie Parker
Disclosure: All products mentioned have been purchases or sample vials scored at stores or through Makeupalley.
By Kilian's Beyond Love sample vial was provided by Bergdorf Goodman.
Luca Turin quote from Perfumes The Guide. This book is by Tania " Tbone" Sanchez and Mr T. I love this dynamic duo.

40 Days and 40 Nights of Fragrance Notes: Bergamot

Something About The Sunshine
by Patti F

The lovely, light bergamot note in perfumes is not usually seen on its own. Unless you take a little trip to Sicily, where you can find a bottle of Bergamotta from a street vendor for about $5 USD. This citrus fruit is grown in the south of Italy in the Calabria region and also in Sicily. From what I've been reading about bergamot, the fruit is grown mostly for perfumery purposes and it is not eaten at all. The scent of bergamot is used to treat depression! And its essence is used as a cure for malaria! On the tree it might more resemble an orange, and is actually categorized as an orange, but the scent of bergamot brings forth a freshly squeezed lemon, peel and all. In the little bottle of Bergamotta, I smell lemon tree flowers. Bergamot notes in fragrances can smell like fresh lemon juice or lemon peel, or sometimes like lemon leaves or lemon tree blossoms. But it is different from a regular lemon note, which can tend to smell sometimes like household cleaning products




In perfumery, bergamot takes its place along with oakmoss and patchouli, the Holy Trinity of notes that make a fragrance a classic chypre. I've loved chypre scents even before I knew the word chypre. Back then we called them woodsy-mossy. My first chypre was the original formula of Cachet by Prince Matchabelli, still absolutely beautiful if you can find it, but stay away from the reformulation that bears no resemblance to the original. My Mom bought me a bottle of Chanel No. 19 when I was a teen, and we both still love and wear it. Chanel also uses bergamot in its lovely, fresh Cristalle. I have a bottle of Cristalle, which I purchased when I found out that Chris Noth (Mister Big) once said that this fragrance can bring him to his knees. Just in case I ever run into him, I'm tucking a vial of Cristalle in my purse.

Dior loves to use bergamot in its fragrances. The Escale series started with Portofino, a breezy, clean scent you might want to try if you wish to capture the feeling of standing on a balcony in the fresh air of that Italian port city. Dior is famous for its green Diorella, a classic chypre with beautiful florals. Guerlain's timeless Jicky starts with bergamot before it brings forth the lavender that is loved by its wearers. One of Guerlain's oldest scents, it still seems totally modern. You'll find bergamot in the hauntingly lovely Apres L'Ondee, too. That is, if you can even find Apres L'Ondee at all.

Bergamot tames the heaviness of the rose notes in Fragonard's Baroque. It adds a lemony-peppery feeling to Acqua Di Parma Profumo, which contains three types of bergamot (source: Barney's website.) Profumo is a fascinating scent that delivers so many levels and layers, starting with the light lemony fizz, and moving through rich florals, ending in satisfying woods. Be careful, though, I've read that there is now a reformulation. I hope it's not true. From Italy you will find many scents with bergamot, including Aqua Di Genova Lady (with a sad wave goodbye to Takashimaya, where I found this gem.) From the markdown tables at TJMaxx, Borsari's Il Mio Sogno was a happy discovery, with light white florals and oakmoss. You'll find bergamot in many Italian perfumes, since it's grown right there in Italy.

The lemony bergamot note dominates the opening of my beautiful Zen by Shiseido. Hard to find, to say the least, Shiseido has lent this name to at least two new fragrances, both of which have nothing at all to do with the original in the gorgeous black bottle. This white floral blend has been a favorite of mine ever since my college roommate insisted that I borrow it from her for a first date with a new beau. She was so worldly and glamourous, of course I took her advice! I dated that young man for a year and purchased my own bottle of Zen. Chinatown by Bond No. 9 begins with bergamot before it gives you its heart of beautiful florals.

Bergamot in fragrances gives an initial appeal, but is not too fruity or clinging. It is not meant to linger, but just to entice. Chances are that many of the perfumes on your own fragrance tray have bergamot in them. From the first known perfumery blends to the latest launch, bergamot is a very important ingredient in perfumery and well-respected as a fragrance note in perfumes all over the world.

Do you have a favorite perfume that contains bergamot?

Disclaimer: All bottles in these photographs were purchased by the writer, with the exception of Jicky and Diorama, which were gifts.
Reviewer: Patti F aka Cavewoman
Photo Credits: Patti F aka Cavewoman
Graphic Credit: Melanie Parker
Title: Ann Margaret's Something About The Sunshine

40 Days and 40 Nights of Fragrance Notes: Carnation

Simply Divine
By Jessica M

Sometimes I feel sorry for the carnation. It’s often considered a commonplace flower, even a cheap one, and it doesn’t get much respect. It was the flower that we never wanted to see in the corsages that boys gave us at school dances, and it’s a flower that we really don’t send to friends or relatives on special occasions.


That’s a shame, because the carnation wasn’t always treated so shabbily. The Greek name for its botanical genus is “dianthus,” often translated as “divine flower.” The species that we usually associate with the carnation is Dianthus caryophyllus, although this genus also includes “pinks” and “Sweet Williams.” Shakespeare wrote in The Winter’s Tale, “Of trembling winter, the fairest flowers o' the season are our carnations.” I agree with him, and not just during the winter; I love wearing carnation fragrances all year long.

Carnation is a very identifiable note in fragrance, but it’s also a note with different shades to its personality. Sometimes it’s soft and powdery; sometimes it’s just a bit creamy, with a honeyed edge; and it can also be quite peppery and even spicy, like cloves. (In fact, I’ve heard that perfumers often imitate this flower’s scent with a skillful blend of clove and ylang-ylang or vanilla notes, since carnation absolute is so costly.) Carnation combines beautifully with rose, and it sits nicely on a base of woody notes.

I’m still not sure why this “divine flower” has a reputation for being tawdry; I even love the way it looks, with its fringed petals and its range of reds, pinks, and white. If you’re looking for a floral fragrance note that’s spicy-sweet, not too dainty and not too heady, a carnation perfume might be worth your time.

Here are a few carnation-inspired fragrances to try...

Carnation soliflores:
Lorenzo Villoresi Garofano
Santa Maria Novella Garofano
Comme des Garçons Series 2 Red: Carnation
Dawn Spencer Hurwitz Oeillets Rouges
Ava-Luxe Oeillet (new; haven’t tried it yet!)

Carnations with other notes:
Caron Bellodgia
Fragonard Billet Doux
Carthusia Fiori di Capri
Nina Ricci L’Air du Temps
Possets Perfume Silver Carnations

Discontinued, but not forgotten:
Floris Malmaison
L’Artisan Parfumeur Oeillet Sauvage

Disclosure: The perfumes mentioned in this post were purchased (or sampled in stores) by the reviewer.
Reviewer: Jessica M
Photo Credits: Decorative soap label, c. 1900, via Getty Images. Red Carnation Flowers by Takuya Uroki, via Corbis.
Graphic Credit: Melanie Parker

40 Days and 40 Nights of Fragrance Notes: Violet

And the sky was all violet...

by Patti F aka MUA's Cavewoman

As I write these perfume note reviews for Blogdorf's 40 Notes In 40 Days, one of the things I like to do is to choose one of the fragrances I own which contains that particular note. I wear it while I'm writing. So, with today's review about the violet, I went to my perfume tray to see what I would find. After a few minutes, I came to realize that I was having a very hard time choosing! Next to rose perfumes, violet is my second-favorite fragrance note. And my perfume collection definitely proves it. I pulled all of my violet fragrances and set them inside a box. I thought that might make it easier, if I saw them all gathered together. It didn't.

It began to be perfectly clear to me why I was having so much trouble just choosing one to wear as I write. Violet scents are utterly fascinating perfumes, so varied in style that none of the ones I had in the box seemed to be an overall representation of the entire group. So, what I did was to choose my favorite violet fragrance of all of them (that was hard to do!) and spray it on as I gathered my thoughts. I'll tell you in a bit which one it is.

My first real violet fragrance was a bottle of Borsari Violetta Di Parma, which I found in a pretty box on a markdown table at our local TJMaxx. I knew I had found something special, I knew it was legendary. I bought it ($10!) and brought it home, and then did some research. It seems that the most true violet notes come from Italy, and many of them were done by the Borsari house. I did not even know that real violet flowers even had a scent. The little wild violets that grow in my back yard might smell a bit greenish, but there's no floralcy to them at all. I can't say I loved the Violetta Di Parma. It was dry and dusty and thin. It's long gone from my collection, and in the hands of someone who appreciated it much more than I did.

I did not give up on Borsari, though, because what I was learning is that the violets of this particular part of Italy produce the violet scent which is treasured in perfumes. While browsing a European website that specializes in beautiful and rare mini perfume bottles, I spotted a gorgeous Borsari called Bouquet Di Violette. I ordered it, along with a few other pretty minis, and when it arrived, I opened it to try out the scent. Ahh! This was way more appealing to me than the first Borsari. Less green, more floral, a bit powdery, I was enchanted. I'd never smelled anything like this before. Of course now I wanted to explore and find more violet perfumes. I even found another Borsari (this time at Marshalls! Again on a markdown table!) -- Violetta Classica, which turned out to be a very musty earthy fragrance which I find almost too dirty to wear. MAC Asphalt Flower is another one of those dirty violet types, but I love that one, with its juxtaposition of feminine florals and a gritty downtown vibe. I tried a sample of Serge Lutens Bois De Violette, which to me was too much bois and not enough violette.

On a trip to New York City, visiting perfume counters with a group of friends, I discovered my treasure. Barney's has one of the best fragrance departments in the entire city. And off to one side, on a pretty tray, I found some Italian fragrances called I Profumi di Firenze. The representative for the company was there that day, Miryana, and she started to ask me what types of scents I like. She held up an almost-empty bottle of Violetta Di Bosco and told me that the reason it was almost empty was that all of the beauty floor sales associates would stop by and spray themselves with this scent. I held up my wrist so she could spray some on me. It was love at first sniff and it's been that way ever since. Violetta Di Bosco is a candy-sweet violet. It's the one I am wearing as I write. I Profumi di Firenze lists no other notes, but I detect a woodsy base.

In my search for other violet scents, I found many new loves and surprises. Violet scents can be incredibly green, and those I don't care much for at all. They smell like broken stems rather than flowers. In the green violet category, I would list L'Artisan Vert Violette, Fresh Violette, and Fragonard Apres-Tout. I have that last one, but I don't wear it very often. I tried vial samples of the other two and was not wowed. Violets blended with woodsy-incensey notes are ones that I love, and those include Nanette by Nanette Lepore, John Galliano, and the gorgeous but limited edition MAC Hue:Violetrix.

Violet scents that tend to be more powdery are FlowerbyKenzo and the stunning Balenciaga Paris, which has a rich base of patchouli, woods, and oakmoss.
I like floral blends with a dominant violet note, such as the original Caron Violette Precieuse. Perhaps the most rare of my violet scents is Comptoir Sud Pacifique's Eau Des Arts, in its silver metal spray cannister. I found this at a tiny cosmetic boutique in Cleveland, where the owner told me she was able to obtain a few CSP scents that were never intended to be sold in the United States. It is a blend of violets with jasmine, lily of the valley and heliotrope in a soft base of woods and spices.

But I continue to love the candy-type violets the most of all. Next to my beloved Violetta Di Bosco, I am crazy for Frederic Malle's Lipstick Rose. The perfumer, Ralf Schweiger, is given credit on the label of the bottle, as are all of the Malle scents. The initial aldehyde moves quickly into a sweet violet with rose, iris, coriander, and a vetiver and vanilla base. It's so addicting that when I purchased my first bottle of Lipstick Rose, it is all I wore until I finished the bottle.

When my two favorite perfume notes, rose and violet, are combined into one perfume, something magical happens. Paris by Yves Saint Laurent is the best example of this combination. Many of the scents I've listed here have rose notes combined with the violet. Within these scents, one plus one is bigger than two! There is something about the rose-violet blend that becomes its own entity. It's as if they belong together.

Do you love a violet fragrance? Which one is your favorite?

Disclaimer: In the photos, every bottle was purchased by the reviewer, with the exception of one which was a gift.

Reviewer: Patti F aka Cavewoman
Graphic Credit: Melanie Parker
Photo Credit: Patti F aka cavewoman

Title: Hole's Violet