40 Days and 40 Nights of Fragrance Notes: Greens

It is not easy being green.

It is also not easy writing about greens.
This was a surprisingly difficult note to tackle. Very labor intensive. Green notes can range from the previously reviewed fig to tomato leaves.There is something to be said about the scent of freshly mowed grass. Who knew a note of "boxed hedge greens" could bring me to my knees? Well...Maison Martin Margiela did! He created a fragrance called Untitled that has uprooted my world. It is a velvety cloud of green. I beg you to run to your local Saks Fifth Avenue store to smell this scent. Many thanks to one of my favorite fragonerds, Julia, at the blog All About The Pretty. She was kind enough to gift me with a sample vial.

The best green fragrances are from the defunct Gobin Daude fragrance house. All the Gobins were masterpieces. It is a tragedy of epic proportions that the world has been robbed of their fragrances. Sous le Buis is a smoky, sappy green. So delicate with a whispery lavender note. Seve Exquise is just plain magic. It has a dreamy quality. It is dark grassy meadows.

Green fragrances smell like blades of grass, dry hay, fields of clover, herbs(angelica), leaves, moss, and rolling meadows.

Green Fragrances

Maison Martin Margiela Untitled
Gobin Daude Sous le Buis
Gobin Daude Seve Exquise
Estee Lauder Private Collection
Estee Lauder Aliage
Miller et Bertaux #3
Craven Ma Griffe
La Base for Her
Gap Grass
Marc Jacobs Grass
Pierre Balmain Vent Vert
Pierre Balmain Ivorie
Jean Patou Vacances
Annick Goutal eau de Camille
Santa Maria Novella Fieno (hay)
CB I Hate Perfume Wild Hunt
CB I Hate Perfume To See a Flower
CB I Hate Perfume Hay Accord
Cb I Hate Perfume Memory of Kindness
Profumum Ichnusa
Nanadebary Green
Dior Diorella
Dior Dioressence
Demeter Wet Garden
Demeter Fresh Hay
Demeter Grass
Demeter Basil
Demeter Parsley
Demeter String Bean
Demeter Cypress
Diptyque L'Ombre dans L'Eau
Diptyque Jardin Clos
Diptyque L'eau de Hesperides
Bond No. 9 High Line
Bond No. 9 Central Park
Bond No. 9 Gramercy Park
Armani Prive Eau Jade
L'Artisan D'Humeur Jalouse
Jacomo Silences
Guerlain Sous Le Vent
hermes Un Jardin Sur le Nil
Chanel Cristalle
Chanel Bel Respiro
Chanel Chance Eau Fraiche
Creed Aubepine Acacia
Creed Green Irish Tweed
Ormonde Jayne Ormonde
Lancome Climat
Cartier Eau De Cartier
Sarah Jessica Parker Covet
Sisley Eau de Champagne
Calvin Klein Truth

Reviewer: Annie
Graphic Credit: Melanie Parker
Disclosure: All products reviewed were either sniffed or purchased by the reviewer.  Untitled was gifted by a good friend.

40 Days and 40 Nights of Fragrance Notes: Aldehydes

I am continuing the 40 Days and 40 Nights series for this week. It is for a myriad of reasons.
1. I am trying to avoid all the Royal Wedding chatter.This means I will be avoiding the television, twitter and all websites.This will be a "Royal Free" zone.
I am not smitten with Kate. 
There. I said it.
2. There are notes that we did not get around to dishing about!

Today we are going to discuss Aldehydes.

Here is the definition straight from wikipedia:

"Aldehyde is an organic compound containing a formyl group. This functional group, with the structure R-CHO, consists of a carbonyl centre bonded to hydrogen and an R group. The group without R is called the aldehyde group or formyl group. Aldehydes differ from ketones in that the carbonyl is placed at the end of a carbon skeleton rather than between two carbon atoms. Aldehydes are common in organic chemistry. Many fragrances are aldehydes."

Science and math are not my strong subjects.  My mind is cluttered with powder puffs and marshmallows.  Patti's famous line is "We are deep as plates".
I am afraid to say that mind will start some type of  "elevator music" when I attempt to comprehend math, science and boys.  I understand the language of lip gloss.

I think aldehydes smell like sunlight. They manage to make a dark fragrance come into the light.  It is fizzy like champagne and shimmery like a diamond. Think sparkle, neon and brightness.

Chanel fragrances are the masters at harnessing the magic of aldehydes. Chanel No.5 is like oxygen. It smells like the brightest day of your life. The sunlight it replicates is that first fall day. It is crisp, sparkling yet slightly dark. Chanel No.22 is considered "the godfather" of all aldehyde fragrances.  It is chock full of light and shimmer.

Great Aldehyde Fragrances:

Chanel No 22
Chanel No 5
Chanel No 19
Chanel Cuir de Russie
Chanel Bois de Iles
Bond 9 Broadway Nite
Lancome Climat
Versace (the original)
Frederic Malle Noir Epices
Frederic Malle Iris Poudre
Frederic Malle Fleur de Cassie
Hermes Caleche
Van Cleef and Arpels First
Balenciaga Le Dix
Madame Rochas
Le Labo Aldehyde 44
Robert Piguet Baghari
Agent Provocateur Maitresse
Ralph Lauren Safari
Estee Lauder White Linen
Lanvin Arpege
Guerlain Vega
Clinique Aromatics Elixir
Etat Libre d'Orange Sex Pistols
Comme des Garcons 2

Please share your favorite aldehyde fragrances in the comments!

Reviewer: Annie
Graphic Credit" Melanie Parker
Disclosure: My current bottle of Chanel No 5 was provided by Chanel. God only knows how many I have purchased in the past!

40 Days and 40 Nights of Fragrance Notes: Woods

Into The Woods
By Patti F

It is impossible for me to begin a review of fragrances that have wood notes, without saying that it is impossible to find
even a few of my fragrances that don't have wood notes. From my freshest, lightest eaux, to my deepest, rich chypres and orientals,
woods are everywhere in the base of the fragrances that sit on my perfume shelves and trays. But there is a difference between fragrances that contain woodsy notes and true woodsy fragrances. I have plenty of the former, and not so many of the latter.

The most well-known wood notes in fragrances are sandalwood, cedarwood, pine, vetiver, cypress, patchouli, and exotics like cashmere woods, ebony, and rosewood. Just about any wood, bark, moss or root can be a wood note in fragrances. Oakmoss is considered part of the woods group of notes, but we've talked about oakmoss on its own (because I love chypres!) and you can find that review in the middle of our 40 in 40 series.

If I had to choose the best of the woods, I'd give that award to Guerlain's fabulous Guet-Apens. It was a limited edition release in 1999, and sold in so few stores and in such short supply that it was gone almost as soon as it was released. My bottle came from Neiman-Marcus. The stunning cobalt blue glass bottle holds the richest woodsy-ambery floral I've ever worn. Immediately bold and confident, Guet-Apens is about as big as they come, and about as big a woods scent as I can wear. Soft florals and a touch of sweetness keep the woods from becoming overpowering, and Guet sits on the edge of overpowering without going completely over. My bottle will last a lifetime because I can only wear one dab at a time. Guerlain re-released this scent several years later, changing the name to Attrape-Coeur. I've never smelled Attrape so I can't say if it is identical to Guet-Apens. Maybe you can help me out here.

Bond No. 9 offers its woodsiest scent in the gorgeous New Haarlem. Cedarwood is the main woods note here, with bergamot, patchouli, lavender, and a bit of coffee and vanilla for sweetness. It can be worn easily by either men or women, and it works well as a base for blending with other Bond scents. Chanel's Coco Mademoiselle is a vetiver-patchouli scent, a bit more tame in the elixir version that I own. What I like about Coco Mad is that it is as comfortable with jeans and a tee shirt as it is in elegant evening wear.

There can be no discussion of woodsy fragrances without mentioning (and honoring) the legendary Feminite Du Bois by Shiseido. I wore this fragrance for years. It always brings a smile to my face because it is the favorite of my good friend Patty. Launched in the early 90s, it was revolutionary in women's fragrances because it was so different from the huge florals of the decade before. Cedarwood is the dominant wood note in F du B. Its perfumer, Christopher Sheldrake, went on to work with Serge Lutens on his fragrance line, and the influence of Feminite Du Bois can be found in many Lutens scents.

Guerlain's Samsara, utterly and completely unwearable on me. On paper, this should actually be a signature scent for me, since it has notes of rose and violet with a sandalwood base. I've tried. Once in a while, I take out this little mini and sniff it just to be sure I haven't made a mistake in passing on it. I haven't. Samsara has a huge following, and was the beginning of Guerlain's leaving behind the famous "Guerlinade" base that linked most of its fragrances before the launch of Samsara.

I wore Christian Dior's Dolce Vita for years. I went through so many bottles of this that I can't even remember. It's a huge cedar-sandalwood scent with a bit of cinnamon. It's been discontinued and I think maybe it just seems a bit too dated to wear any more. The woods overpower just about every other note. Dior loves wood notes. You'll find them in every fragrance they've ever created, and with good presence at that.

Chanel's Bois Des Iles is one of the best woodsy fragrances, highly sought-after among perfume fanatics, and loved by both men and women. The signature jasmine of most of Chanels fragrances is combined with rose, and the rich base of sandalwood and vetiver are dark, lush, and warm.

Recent woodsy scents that I've added to my collection are L'Agent by Agent Provocateur (a devastatingly feminine floral with patchouli and sandalwood combined with velvety myrrh and incense,) John Varvatos (a TJMaxx discovery, a half ounce of pure parfum for $12.99!) which resembles Coco Mademoiselle so closely but is actually even prettier than the Chanel, and YSL Parisienne, which is a happy fruity floral blend which shares rose and violet notes with its big sister Paris, and blending patchouli, vetiver, and sandalwood in the base. I don't know why it took me so long to try it. Rose, violet, sandalwood, put these together and they are my favorite blend.

I'm showing you my mini of Grain De Folie by Nicky Verfaillie. It's a beautiful woods-based scent that combines almost all of the woods notes I've listed here, vetiver, patchouli, sandalwood, cedarwood, and oakmoss. If you know of this scent, we share a big secret. It is a beautiful floral in its heart, and perfectly blended with its woods. I've never seen a full bottle. That's a hint, dear reader.

Other fragrances in the woods category are Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Winter Delice and Aroma Allegoria Exaltant, 10 Corso Como, the fabulous Bois De Paradis by Parfums DelRae (and a favorite of mine when Ms. Blogdorf wears it,) Roberto Cavalli, and the luscious Black Cashmere by Donna Karan.

I can't possibly list all of the woods fragrances, so I am asking for a little help here! What are your favorite woodsy perfumes? Tell us!

Reviewer: Patti F
Photo Credit: Patti F
Disclaimer: All of the bottles in the photos were purchased by the writer, with the exception of Bond No. 9 New Haarlem which was a promotion bottle.

40 Days and 40 Nights of Fragrance Notes: Vanilla

Vanilla is derived from vanilla orchids. These vine-like orchids grow and wrap around existing trees or poles. Vanilla is native to Mexico, but grows throughout the tropics. Madagascar is the largest vanilla producer.
Vanilla is the second most expensive spice due to the extensive labor to grow and ferment the pods. It takes a whole lot of pixie magic to prepare vanilla for perfumery. According to Many Aftel's book Essence and Alchemy A Book of Perfume, vanilla's heavenly scent comes through a "curing process" that involves fermenting in sun and air.

"As the lower end of the pod begins to turn yellow, it releases a penetrating scent of bitter almonds. cracks open in it, releasing a small quality of its oil, which is known as balsam of vanilla. By degrees the color darkens, the flesh softens, and the true odor of vanilla begins to develop as the natural fermentation gradually progresses up the pod, which takes up to a month. The essence is exuded in thick reddish drop."
(page 95 for the fragonerds)

Vanilla smells sweet, powdered sugar-like, boozy with undercurrents of tobacco, almonds,and smoke. It can smell innocent and mysterious.
My love and appreciation for vanilla came late in my perfume collecting life. Le Labo's Vanille 44 was the scent that converted me into a vanilla fan.

I can never gush enough about Vanille 44.
The notes are bergamot, incense, gaiac wood, mandarin, vanilla, muscenone, pipol and hedione. It is a whispery, ghostly vanilla that is woody and church-like. This is not a gourmand vanilla. It is full of dark corners and twisted pathways.
Beware of falling in love with Vanille 44. It is sold only in Paris at the Colette boutique. It can break your heart and make you pine like a lovesick teen.

Hermes Vanille Galante is also a gauzy vanilla fragrance. It is herbal with a sweet melon note. It dries down into something earthy and perfect for April shower days.

Le Labo Vanille 44: The best vanilla fragrance on the earth!
Serge Lutens Un Bois Vanille: This is another great vanilla fragrance. Very creamy with coconut milk. Gormandish. The Sheldrake drydown is all kinds of burnt sugar, black licorice and woods.
Atelier Cologne Vanille Insensee: A worthy contender to the Le Labo Vanilla 44 throne! Serious gorgeous.
Coty Vanilla Fields and Vanilla Musk: Classics available at your local drugstore!
L'Artisan Vanilia: Hard to get.
Hermes Vanille Galante
Rochas Tocade: Luca Turin describes it as " the vanilla too was wierd, perfectly judged between ice cream, smoke and candyfloss". (page 337 for the fragonerds)
L'Artisan Havana Vanille: A boozy vanilla
Molinard Habanita
Guerlain Jicky: Considered the first vanilla!
Indult Tihota
Montale Sweet Oriental Dream
Creed Sublime Vanille
Regina Harris Amber Vanilla
I Profumi di Firenze Vaniglia del Madagascar
I Profumi di Firenze Ambra del Nepal
Comptoir Sud Pacifique Vanille Abricot: It smells like ice cream with delicious apricots.
Serge Lutens Rahat Loukoum
Dior Hypnotic Poison or Dior Addict
Chantecaille Frangipane
Givenchy Ange ou Demon
Montale's Intense Tiare
Tom Ford Black Orchid
Dior Addict
Guerlain L'Heure Bleue
Guerlain Shalimar
Guerlain Angelique Noire
Guerlain Spiritueuese Double Vanille
Parfums de Nicolai Vanille Intense
Escada Collection
Lulu Guinness Fairytales
Britney Spears Fantasy
Dior Fahrenheit 32
Givenchy Organza
Valentino
Annick Goutal Vanille Exquise
Parfums de Nicolai Vanille Tonka

Tell us your favorite vanilla fragrance in the comments. Let me know what vanilla scents I forgot in the list.

Reviewer: Annie
Graphic Credit: Melanie Parker
Credits: Mandy Aftel's Essence and Alchemy and Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez's(Mr T and Tbone) Perfume The Guide. Also Wikipedia!
Disclosure: All fragrances were sniffed or purchased by the reviewer. Hermes Vanille Galante was a gift from L!
Atelier Cologne Vanille Insensee was provided by Bergdorf Goodman

40 Days and 40 Nights of Fragrance Notes: Lilies

Gilding the Lily
By Jessica M

For my last contribution to this “40 Days...” series, I thought I’d
write a few words about lily notes in perfume -- not to be confused
with lily-of-the-valley, which Patti has already discussed so
beautifully.

The lily is such a symbolic flower. The fleur-de-lys, or “lily
flower,” is an emblem of France. A lily often represents purity, and
in Christianity, it is associated with the Virgin Mary. It’s often
used as a sign of rebirth for Easter (very timely!) and for funerals.
Perhaps all this symbolism distracts us from the fact that the lily is
also a beautiful note for perfume.

Lilies are so fragrant and so stunning to look at: they have clean,
sculptural lines and a cool, creamy scent. A lily can be almost too
perfect, like a Hitchcock blonde. I prefer lilies when they’re
slightly mussed up, with their pollen starting to fall in fine golden
dust and the very edges of their petals beginning to curl. In
fragrance, I like to smell a lily note brightened with leafy-green
accents or warmed with a hint of spice or a breath of salty air. Then
it feels a little more approachable, even a bit decadent.

I usually prefer lily (and many white floral notes, like gardenia or
freesia) in home fragrance, but in springtime, I often crave a
lily-inspired perfume too. Lily can feel polished but fresh, in a
very classic way.

Here are a few recommendations for lily fragrances to try this spring:

Antica Farmacista Casablanca Lily
Donna Karan Gold
Frédéric Malle Un Lys Mediterranée
Penhaligon’s Lily & Spice
Serge Lutens Un Lys
Van Cleef & Arpels Lys Carmin
YOSH Stargazer

(Many thanks to Annie for inviting me to join this series!)

Disclosure: The perfumes mentioned in this post were purchased (or
sampled in stores) by the reviewer.
Reviewer: Jessica M
Photo Credits: White lily via Wikipedia. Paul Berthon, cover of
L’Ermitage, c. 1897, via Wikimedia Commons.
Graphic Credit: Melanie Parker

40 Days and 40 Nights of Fragrance Notes: Cinnamon and Nutmeg

Cinnamon and Nutmeg
By Patti F

The husband can't cook. He can grill. Those are two entirely different things, of course. A Caveman should know how to cook meat over an open fire,
and he is good at that, for sure. But cooking, like as in pots and pans and an oven or a stove, no. His one attempt was a disaster. He told me he knew how to make the best Chicken Cacciatore I would ever taste in my life. I'm Italian, so I was skeptical, since my German-Irish-Native American husband hadn't even tasted Veal Parmigiana before we met. He told me what to buy at the grocery store and said he'd need a huge skillet because he was going to make a big batch of his masterpiece. I went to Macy's and bought a gorgeous Farberware nonstick skillet. Then I attempted to leave him alone in the kitchen. He kept calling me back, to ask for measuring spoons (who measures??) or the flour canister, and then he'd shoo me off so he could continue to concoct. I was not allowed to see him add his "secret ingredient" to whatever it was in that skillet.

Turns out, it was cinnamon. And lots of it. The cacciatore was inedible. My kitchen was a mess. He was proud. He hasn't made it since.
Oh, and the Farberware? Ruined, as he used a knife to cut the chicken in the skillet instead of cutting it before he started to cook.

So, whenever I see the little container of cinnamon in my spice cabinet, I get a little chuckle from it. I love the smell of cinnamon. It reminds me, not just of the Cacciatore debacle, but more pleasantly of so many pretty fragrances that I have. I like to wear cinnamon fragrances during the Winter holidays, because they bring to mind cooked apples, Thanksgiving desserts, and my favorite hot drink at Christmastime, Constant Comment tea. It's the only tea I like, and Christmas is the only time I drink it.

My favorite cinnamon fragrance has to be Estee Lauder's Youth-Dew. You have to hand it to Ms. Lauder, who "accidentally" spilled a bottle of this perfume in a department store where she was trying to arrange that the store would sell her fragrance. Ladies clamored around to find out what the fragrance was and to buy it. A legend was born! It is still a beautiful, exotic, rich scent, and deserving of all its praise over the years. I love seeing the younger women on the perfume chat clubs and blogs, discovering Youth-Dew and loving it. Lauder's other cinnamon fragrance, Cinnabar, was my own Grandmother's favorite perfume. Even to the end of her days, after being bathed by the aides in the nursing home where she lived, she would ask them to powder her with the Cinnabar dusting powder that I would give her as a gift every Christmas and Mothers' Day.

I have to wipe away a tear as I tell you about another cinnamon fragrance that I love. It seems that Forever21, the trendy and inexpensive clothing store, has opened in the former Takashimaya store on Fifth Avenue in New York City. Could these two retailers be more opposite one another? I don't think so. I remember so many lovely trips to Tak, as we fondly call it in our little NYC fragrance gang. The sixth floor was the city's oasis, with comfy sofas and tables carefully set with fragrant offerings and unusual cosmetic lines. Glass cabinets held fragrances that you couldn't find anywhere else. One wall was devoted to Fragonard. I chose one every time we visited. Murmure is the cinnamon offering from Fragonard, mysterious and warm, and unlike most of the other Fragonards which are based on florals. Murmure begins with a soft jasmine-rose combination, but the cinnamon is there right away, and develops more richly as it wears. Earthy notes of patchouli and iris are the base of this treasure. I'm sure that nobody who is shopping in Forever21 would even know the name Fragonard. I'm not going to dwell on the depressing here. I'll always remember the wonderful shopping and camaraderie of so many visits to Takashimaya. And I still have all of my Fragonard treasures and the other lovely perfumes I purchased there.

Down the street a bit, still standing strong and the benchmark for all things luxurious and beautiful, Bergdorf Goodman's fragrance department on The Beauty Floor is a charming area, well lit and bright with everything pretty. It is sectioned into little areas, almost like strolling through a lovely apartment. In one alcove, I found the Acqua Di Parma line of beautiful fragrances from Italy. At the time, Profumo was the only one which was being sold as a womens' scent. Herbal at first, with lavender, sage and cardamom, and moving into its heart of white florals, the cinnamon combines with clove and woods, oakmoss and frankincense, making this a most remarkable scent for either men or women. I've never found anything that compares.

My first nutmeg fragrance was a little bottle, a decant of a perfume that was being talked about with raves on all the chat boards and forums. It was Nanadebary. A friend sent me some to try, in a swap. I don't quite remember, but I think I sent her something Creed. As soon as I opened the bottle, I was enchanted. I'd never smelled nutmeg in a fragrance. I set aside the decant and ran to the computer to order a full bottle for myself. When it arrived, I was delighted at the feminine dressing-table bottle with the bulb atomizer. I used it often, but was dismayed to see my supply dwindling right before my eyes. Within months, all that remained in the bottle was a darkened, syrupy liquid. Where did my Nana go? Evidently it evaporated right out of that atomizer! Since then, the bottle has been changed to a regular pump spray, and I have not repurchased. I still have my decant. Nanadebary contains no florals that I can detect. It's a blend of foody spices, rich woods, and vanilla.

Bond No. 9 Harrods For Her is another beautiful nutmeg scent. Tuberose is the main floral in Harrods For Her, but its presence is soft and understated. Nutmeg combined with woods and leather, and a surprise of vetiver in the base, give this fragrance a slight unisex twist. Harrods For Her was created by the great perfumer Laurent Le Guernec. I have sung his praises here on Blogdorf many times. He's a genius with spice, a master of the unexpected.

Kilian fragrances offers a touch of cinnamon in its Back To Black Aphrodisiac. Created by Calice Becker, it contains a strong cherry pipe tobacco note as well as kitchen spices of cinnamon, cardamom, saffron and coriander, with a base of vetiver, patchouli and oakmoss. I admit that I don't understand Becker at all. Maybe that's a good thing. There are only a few Kilians that I have fallen in love with. My wallet thanks me.

The man has a few of his own nutmeg scents, including the fabulous Bleu de Chanel (I wear this too!) and Jazz by Yves Saint Laurent. I hope he doesn't get inspired to start cooking with nutmeg.

More cinnamon fragrances:
Fendi Theorema
Bond No. 9 Bleecker Street, Coney Island, and H.O.T Always
Joop! All About Eve (so great with the apple note!)
Guerlain Aroma Allegoria Exaltant
Shiseido Feminite du Bois
Caron Parfum Sacre
L'Artisan Tea For Two
Frederic Malle Musc Ravageur

More nutmeg fragrances:
Givenchy Organza
Dolce & Gabbana Sicily
Chanel No. 22
Dior J'Adore
Guerlain Love Is All
Cartier Panthere
Guerlain Vetiver

Do you love cinnamon and nutmeg as fragrance notes? Tell us which ones you love!

Reviewer: Patti F
Photo Credit: Patti F
Graphic Credit: Melanie Parker
Disclaimer: The fragrances in this review were photographed by the writer.
The fragrances in this review were either purchased by the writer or sampled by the writer or given to the writer
as gifts, with the exception of Nanadebary which she acquired in a swap.

40 Days and 40 Nights of Fragrance Notes: Gourmands

Gourmand fragrances are any scents that are "foodie" in nature. These fragrances can smell like a decadent cupcake or a crisp fall apple. I have a great appreciation for a dark chocolate note and anything with gooey marshmallows. Coffee adds a great jolt to a fragrance dry down.

Kilian's Love Don't Be Shy is a spongy, sweet confection of a fragrance. The inspiration is the marshmallow. Love Don't Be Shy is a bold sugary minx.
My first impression was that it was a great homage to Guerlain. There is a heavy Shalimar influence. Love Don't Be Shy might be sweet but there is an undercurrent of mystery. There is a metallic honeyed Neroli note with a fairly grand Sambac Jasmine. There are appearances from Rose and Iris. The dry down is a great buttery vanilla with a cloud of musk. The sillage and lasting power is strong in this Kilian.

The queen of all the gourmands is the legendary Thierry Mugler's Angel. It is chock full of sweetness. The gourmand notes are dark chocolate, caramel,coconut and cotton candy. I wore Angel throughout the 90's. It was an odd choice to pair with Doc Martens and vintage 1940's dresses. I loved its unique charm. I also loved that it was challenging to find in Ohio. I had to drive to Cleveland's Saks Fifth Avenue to purchase a bottle. Today you can find a bottle of Angel at your local Macys Department store and Wal-Mart. Angel has spawned many copies and tribute fragrances. It also inspires great love or hate among fragrance junkies. Angel will always have a special place in my heart. It was the fragrance that accompanied the best years of my life.

Donna Karan has a series of fragrances that are inspired by the apple.  All worthy and accurate.
But the best apple fragrance is Molinard's Caramel Pain d'epice.  It is all kinds of apple cider with a dollop of cinnamon. Gorgeous and perfect for the beginnings of fall.

Chocolate Fragrances:
Thierry Mugler Angel
Serendipitus
Bulgari Omnia (white chocolate)
Serge Lutens Borneo
Chanel Coromandel (white chocolate)
Fresh Cannabis Santal
Tom Ford Black Orchid
Ralph Lauren Notorious
Guerlain La Petite Robe Noire #2
Vera Wang Princess
Sarah Jessica Parker Covet
Cartier Le Baiser Du Dragon
Avril Lavigne Black Star
Bond 9 Coney Island
L'Artisan Pigment Brulant
S-Perfume 100% Love: This is supposed to be a life changing gourmand. I have never smelled it!
Demeter Junior Mints
Demeter Chocolate Chip Cookie
Demeter Devils Food
Comme des Garcons Series 7 Sweet: Spicy Cocoa

Cotton Candy:
Aquolina Pink Sugar
Demeter Cotton Candy
Thierry Mugler Angel

Caramel:
Dior Miss Dior Cherie
Juicy Couture Viva la Juicy and Juicy Couture
Thierry Mugler Angel
Jessica Simpson Fancy
Hard Candy Hard Candy
Estee Lauder Pleasures Delight
Escada Escada Collection: A great sweet but dark fragrance!Love and cherish my bottle.
Lulu Guinness Fairytales

Marshmallow:
Kilian Love Don't Be Shy
Mariah Carey M
Coach Poppy
Guerlain Le Petite Robe Noire #2

Coffee:
Bond 9 New Haarlem
Jo Malone Black Vetyver Cafe
Comme des Garcons Series 7 Sweet: Wood Coffee

Apples:
Dolce & Gabbbana Light Blue
Molinard Caramel Pain d'epice
Donna Karan DKNY Be Delicious
Donna Karan DKNY Red Delicious
Donna Karan DKNY Fresh Blossom
Frederic Malle Outrageous
Katy Perry Purr
Clinique Happy
Anna Sui Dolly Girl

Let us know your favorite gourmand fragrances in the comments!


Reviewer: Annie
Graphic Credit: Melanie Parker
Photo Credit of Stay Puft Man: Wikipedia
Disclosure: All products mentioned in this review have been sniffed or purchased by the reviewer.
The sample vial of Kilian's Love Don't Be Shy was provided by Bergdorf Goodman

40 Days and 40 Nights of Fragrance Notes: Lily Of The Valley

Lily of The Valley
by Patti F

My Grandpa (the Roman one, not the Sicilian) had a green thumb. I swear that he could plant a stone, and a week later he'd have a tree growing. He had a talent, legendary among the old neighborhood old-timers, to be able to graft branches from plum trees. He didn't talk much, but he showed his love in non-verbal ways. On Sundays, after dinner, he'd sit me down in the living room, give me a stick of Juicy-Fruit gum, and read the comics to me. He tended his flower beds with great pride and care, showing me in Springtime where the green leaves of his bulb annuals were popping through the ground next to their house. In the early Summers, he would place tiny, delicate bouquets of lily-of-the-valley in a whiskey shot glass, and set them on the windowsill in Grandma's kitchen. It was his little gesture of love for her, and it touched me deeply, even as a child. I knew what he was saying to her, without uttering a word. It was always her favorite flower.

It is impossible to begin any discussion on lily-of-the-valley without talking about Diorissimo by Christian Dior. Created in 1956 by Edmund Roudnitska, it is the standard by which all other lily-of-the-valley fragrances are judged. Of course, reformulations have happened over the years, and perfume lovers lament the changes and bid for vintage on ebay and swap teeny vials of the precious drops. I'm fortunate to have a bit of the original, in the aluminum bottle from Grasse, a gift from my Mom from one of her trips there. My other bottle, an eau de toilette spray, is lovely, to be sure, but they're not the same. It's about twelve years old. Diorissmo the original is a burst of complete joy. Rich, intense, but at the same time innocent and shy, the vintage Diorissimo laughs in the sunshine with its wearer. Nostalgic without being dated, it seems perfectly at ease right now. My eau de toilette version is much lighter, greener, lemony, and I sense jasmine and rose in the blend. It's still beautiful, but comparing the two is like this: imagine a trip to the Costume Institute at the Met. You're lucky because on that day you're allowed to see a vintage Dior suit. You scour ebay, find the same suit in a Vogue pattern, run to the best fabric store for the perfect textile, and throw all your tailoring skills into making the perfect garment. It's close, but it'll never be the same.

Every year, on May 1st, France celebrates the day in dedication to the lily-of-the-valley flower. It's traditional to give little bouquets to loved ones. Occasionally the great perfume house of Guerlain will offer a limited run of their Muguet fragrance, packaged in a different bottle every time. I found my bottle of Muguet on the Neiman Marcus website in 2003. It's an eau de toilette in an impossibly beautiful swirled, stoppered bottle. This Muguet is lighter than Diorissmo, more soliflore to my nose, and true to the flower. There's an edition this year, in a different bottle from what you see here. I like mine better.

It seems that the Italians love lily-of-the-valley (thinking again of my Grandparents!) because the flower takes center stage in two fragrances with similar names, both from Italy. Capri by Adrienne Vittadini and Caprissimo by Carthusia both feature lily-of-the-valley as their main event. Capri is the breeziest green floral with a hint of beachiness to recall the beautiful coastline of the island. The base is woodsy with a bit of light musk. Caprissimo is much deeper, with lilac and rose, and ending in the richest base of myrrh, musk, lush woods, and ambergris. While Capri is a walk in the Italian sunshine, Caprissimo is a stroll down a cobblestone street after a late evening stop at a local trattoria.

I Profumi di Firenze, another quality Italian perfumery, offers its lily-of-the-valley in the gorgeous Caterina de Medici. Combined with subtle rose and the signature iris of Florence, it is as regal and elegant as its namesake. I'm on my third bottle.

In 1993, Gucci presented its Eau De Gucci, created by master perfumer Michel Almairac (who did so many of my favorites!) -- it came and went much too quickly. This happy lily-of-the-valley fragrance seems so un-Gucci to me, when I think of the leather tradition of that company (we won't even talk about the logo bags.) Sparkling with bergamot and neroli and blended with notes of jasmine, tuberose, lilac and violet, Eau De Gucci dries down to a perfect vetiver-sandalwood base. The progression of notes is so logical, so subtle, with the lily-of-the-valley present from start to finish, it is one of my favorites, and I'm hoarding. It's completely satisfying, joyful, feminine, and should never have been discontinued.

Demi-Jour comes from Houbigant, one of the oldest French perfumeries. Few Houbigants have gained fame over the years, and we mostly think of Quelques Fleurs when we talk about Houbigant. Demi-Jour is a strange scent. It has such huge aldehydes on the top that I'd like to compare it to Chanel #22 as one of the aldehydiest perfumes ever created. If you can get past that, the lily-of-the-valley will reward you. Blended in the mid notes are violet, rose, heliotrope and orris, but they stay back and let the lily-of-the-valley have her starring role. Oakmoss in the base just makes me happy.

One of the most beautiful lily-of-the-valley fragrances I've ever found is Fleur De Fleurs by Nina Ricci. I remember the day I discovered it, shopping with my Mom and her lady friend in the huge Kaufmann's store in downtown Pittsburgh. One spray of the tester, and all three of us were buying. Lemony and green at first, the heart of white florals emerges with the lily-of-the-valley shining through the blend. The base contains sandalwood, civet, and musk. There has never been any fragrance quite like it. I have heard that Ricci recently re-launched Nina, but with reformulation, and I hope that if Fleur De Fleurs ever comes back, it'll be the original formula. My Mom still wears hers, and so do I. Sparingly.

Other fragrances based on the lily-of-the-valley are Santa Maria Novella's Muguetto, which is a true soliflore and as light and fleeting as they come. I wore this one for a short time, but it lasted on my skin a short time, and off it went to a more grateful owner. Laura Ashley used lily-of-the-valley in her beautiful No. 1 and Dilys, the latter being a favorite of both my Mom and my Grandma. Caron's Muguet De Bonheur isn't as happy as the name would indicate. I have a feeling my bottle was part of the massive reformulation going on at Caron. It is sharp and distracting. Annick Goutal has had a Muguet in the past, I'm just mentioning it here but I do not personally know that scent. I'm not much of a Goutal fan.

I would definitely be remiss if I did not mention the great Muguet Des Bois by Coty. It's still around, thank goodness. I am sure it has changed over the years, but it was always on my perfume tray when I was a young girl. Mom, Regina and I all shared a bottle, and we went through plenty of them. You can find it in the drugstores or discounters or perfume kiosks just about anywhere. Get one. It's cheap and it is what it is, which is a pretty, true lily-of-the-valley scent that'll put a smile on your face and won't lighten your wallet. That is, unless you have a desire for a more prestigious Muguet, whereupon you can call the Guerlain Boutique at Bergdorf Goodman and reserve your bottle of the 2011 Muguet, it'll set you back around $500 or so.

Do you love a lily-of-the-valley fragrance? And which ones do you know of that I did not know about or mention here in this review? Tell us all about them!

Reviewer: Patti F
Photos: Patti F
Graphic Credit: Melanie Parker
Disclaimer: The fragrances pictured above and mentioned in this review were all purchased by the reviewer, with the exception of the small gold Muguet bottle, that was a gift from her Mother.

40 Days and 40 Nights of Fragrance Notes: Lavender

The Lavender Hill Mob
By Jessica M

The smell of lavender is so familiar that we don’t always appreciate
it. Sometimes we write it off as commonplace, old-fashioned, even
boring – but I’m taking this opportunity to reconsider it with an open
mind (and an open nose!).

Lavender oil is produced from the stalks and flowers of the lavender
plant, and it smells herbal and slightly flowery at the same time.
It’s a versatile essence for fragrance, since it combines well with
citrus, floral, and woodsy notes. The lavender scent of many ordinary
body products has a soapy, synthetic effect, but true lavender
fragrance is greener and feels more “alive.” It can be work by men as
well as women, and although it’s known for being relaxing, it also has
something rejuvenating about it.

Here’s some lavender trivia for all of us! Lavender belongs to the
mint family of plants, and its botanical name comes from the Latin
verb “lavare,” to wash – since the ancient Romans valued it for its
disinfectant properties. In the Middle Ages, lavender was praised in
early herbal studies for its healing effects on the body and the mind.
The Elizabethans scented their homes with sachets, potpourri, and
pomanders containing dried lavender flowers. Lavender was a key
ingredient in the first Eau de Cologne blend, created by Jean-Marie
Farina (1709) and in Guerlain’s original Eau de Cologne Impériale
(1853), and Napoleon is said to have enjoyed wearing lavender water.
We still use lavender as it has been used for many centuries – to
scent our bath, our linens, and ourselves.

In the mid-90s, I was in the mood for a lavender perfume, but I had
some trouble finding one. Lavender-scented bath and body products
were everywhere, of course, but actual lavender fragrances were harder
to locate. (Remember, this was also before internet-shopping took
off!) I did come across Geo F. Trumper Lavender Water at the men’s
counter in Barneys, but that blend was still slightly too woodsy and
masculine for me. My search was rewarded with a Lavender eau de
toilette from the original Demeter fragrance line (when it was a small
indie brand created by Christopher Brosius, who later founded CB I
Hate Perfume).

Fortunately, there seems to have been a small lavender revival over
the past decade, with several classic, mainstream, and independent
perfume houses adding lavender fragrances to their product catalogues.
I like having a lavender perfume handy for warm days, or moments when
I feel a bit tense, or times when I just want to wear something simple
and fresh and timeless. Anyone looking for a “clean”-type scent
should remember lavender: it set the trend, a very long time ago!

Here are some lavender-based perfumes to try and enjoy:

Crabtree & Evelyn Lavender Water
Crabtree & Evelyn Lavender Eau de Toilette (new, with a lovely bottle)
Caron Les Plus Belles Lavandes
Elizabeth W Lavender Eau de Parfum
L’Occitane Eau de la Recolte Bleue Lavender Harvest
Roxanna Villa / Illuminated Perfume Vera
Penhaligon’s Lavandula
Tauer Perfumes Reverie au Jardin

Disclosure: The perfumes mentioned in this post were purchased (or
sampled in stores) by the reviewer.
Reviewer: Jessica M
Title: the name of a movie from 1951, starring Alec Guinness, Stanley
Holloway, and Audrey Hepburn.
Photo Credits: Lavender flowers, via Wikipedia. “Lavender, Temple
Bar,” by William Marshall Craig, from “The Cries of London,” 1804, via
Art.com.
Graphic Credit: Melanie Parker

40 Days and 40 Nights of Fragrance Notes: Olfactory Oddities

The idea for this post came to me yesterday. I thought it would be fun to focus on "offbeat" or slightly twisted fragrance notes. There are several perfume houses who are notorious for pushing the envelope in perfumery.  They craft fragrances that are compelling and sometimes unwearable. The best perfume craftsman is Christopher Brosius. He is the gentleman behind the great Demeters and his own CB I Hate Perfume line.  He has managed to capture the smell of a thunderstorm, snow and forest floors. Comme des Garçons have created some fragrances that go against the norm.  Inspirations range from leaves, sherbet and Japanese ink.

Etat Libre D'Orange is a niche house that has created fragrances that smell like blood or pumpkin pie. The names can be naughty, shocking or witty. I wear "Putain des Palaces" aka Hotel Slut. The inspirations range from anarchy to 1970's gigolos. You have to marvel at the creative mixes of notes.  Who knew that jasmine could smell lovely with cigarettes? Etienne de Swardt did.

Etat Libre D'Orange Sécrétions Magnifiques smells like blood, sweat, and semen. It is metallic (like dirty pennies) and musk. The official notes are lodized accord (fucus, azurone), adrenalin accord, blood accord, milk accord, iris, coconut, sandalwood and opoponax.

A great description of Secretions comes from Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez's Perfumes The Guide. Mr Turin writes "It is, however, an elegant fresh floral in the manner of Parfums de Nicolai Odalisque, given a demonic twist by a stupendous bilge note, which, my vibrational nose tells me, can only be a nitrile. I remember years ago mounting an impassioned defense of a forgotten Quest material called Marenil,which smelled just like that: oily, metallic, entirely wrong, and begging to be used intelligently. I'm delighted to see it was possible."
(For the fragonerds...quote from page 318)

Black Hemlock is a poison. The hemlock flower looks eerily similar to Queen Anne's Lace. The flowers are white, frothy and lace-like. The Hemlock stem is smooth with purple spots on the lower half. It is said to have a musty, mice-like smell. Queen Anne's Lace smells like carrots and has a dark purple flower in the center of the flower mass.
Ormonde Jayne's Ormonde Woman is one of my all time favorite fragrances. There is just something about Ormonde. It is glamorous. Haunting. Twisted. One of the listed notes is Black Hemlock. I never get a musty note. It is just a heavenly mix of woods and pine needles.

Ink smells thick, cool and metallic.
Comme des Garçons 2 was created to capture the idea of black ink. The fragrance is a rose incense with this shadowy layer of sumi ink. I could not stop smelling it at Barneys in NYC. I passed on a purchase due to being distracted by Frederic Malles. Carnal Flower always makes me lose my focus and train of thought.
I have not had the pleasure of sniffing Byredo's M/M Ink.  This is said to be a stunner. The ink note plays the main character in the fragrance. Lalique's Encre Noire is supposed to smell like India ink. It also housed in a black bottle that looks like an inkwell.

I thought it would be easy to describe Cannabis. I am struggling with this task at 11pm. I would say that the cannabis note can be very pungent. It smells herbal. Sage-like. Like burnt popcorn.

Other Cannabis Fragrances:
Fresh Cannabis Santal
Strange Invisible Perfumes Vaccances
Nasomatto Black Afgano
Demeter Cannabis Flower
Esteban Paris Bois Velours

According to wikipedia, Absinthe is "an anise-flavoured spirit derived from herbs, including the flowers and leaves of the herb Artemisia absinthium, commonly referred to as "grande wormwood", together with green anise and sweet fennel". The drink is commonly referred as "the green fairy". I have always wanted to try absinthe. It looks dangerous and twisted. If it was good enough for Rimbaud...then I should take a sip.
Absinthe smells like black licorice with a touch of ginger.

Gobin Daude Biche dans l'Absinthe was the most exquisite absinthe fragrance.  It had this hay note that just slayed me. It also had a cumin note that prevented me from ever caving on a bottle. Cumin and me...are not friends.

Other Absinthe Fragrances:
L'Artisan Fou d'Absinthe
Nasomatto Absinthe
Serge Lutens Douce Amere
Kilian A Taste of Heaven
John Varvatos Vintage

Cashmeran is a synthetic material. It smells like wet cement. Musky-like.
It is showcased in Frederic Malle's Dans tes Bras. I love the "difficult to wear" Malle fragrances. Une Fleur de Cassie is one of my favorites.
 
Other Cashmeran Fragrances:
Theirry Mugler Alien

Let us know what odd note always makes your heart race in the comments!

Reviewer: Annie
Graphic Credit: Melanie Parker
Pictures: Annie
Disclosure: All products reviewed were purchased or sniffed by the reviewer
The Kilian sample vial was provided by Bergdorf Goodman
Quote: Luca Turin in Perfumes The Guide
By Tania Sanchez and Luca Turin
Credit: Wikipedia

40 Days and 40 Nights of Fragrance Reviews: Pepper

Pepper Patti
by Patti F

Along with shopping for perfumes and talking about perfumes and sharing perfumes with my perfume-loving friends, we have many other things in common. We love beautiful fashion, pretty jewelry, the latest fabulous cosmetics (lipsticks!) and then there are shoes. So, the conversation at lunch often turns to these other subjects in addition to fragrances. On our table at the Cleveland Gang gathering place (in front of the H&M Store) you'll see vials, bottles, and little boxes of fragrance samples sitting right there with our food court trays. Which leads me to just one other thing we have in common, food! So many of my fragrance friends are gourmet cooks. They know their food. They have access to great markets like Whole Foods (wish we had one here!) Trader Joes, and great fresh fish markets and the amazing West Side Market in Cleveland, full of the most delectable goodies, meats, cheeses, and produce. We absolutely love unusual spice notes in fragrances, cumin, coriander, rosemary, cinnamon, nutmeg, clove. These are not necessarily in fragrances that are known as gourmands, they often pop up in mysterious orientals, woodsy scents, and even lighthearted eaux and florals. The Cleveland Gang has been known to ditch the mall, pile into their cars, and head to Whole Foods for an afternoon of gourmet food shopping instead of the displays at Sephora, the perfume counters at Nordstrom, and the shoe racks at Saks. We choose foods over Choos.

I learned to cook at my Mother's side. We never had a pepper shaker at our house. All we had were fresh peppercorns, and several pepper grinders. We set one on the table at dinnertime. A touch of freshly ground black pepper is the magic in so many dishes, and added at table directly onto whatever's on the plate, its aroma entices even before the taste. Ask my sister, who carries a mini pepper grinder in her handbag. Just in case the restaurant doesn't have a pepper grinder!

Fragrances with the pepper note use black, pink, or white pepper. The note adds zest and spice, and it works especially well with rose scents. My beloved Mille Et Une Rose does not list pepper in the notes, but it's a peppery rose to me, fascinating, unusual, always full of pleasure. Bond No. 9 adds pink pepper to its light and breezy rose scent, Bryant Park. These two rose scents could not be more different from one another, and yet the pepper-rose combination makes the most of a mutual admiration. They play well together.

My latest peppery fragrance discovery came in a swap I arranged with a lovely lady. I don't remember what I sent to her. I had never tried Si Lolita by Lolita Lempicka, but I love the original and the quirky anise note it contains (not to mention the adorable bottle) and I was hoping I'd love it. And I do!
Si Lolita opens with the fresh pink pepper combined with gorgeous bergamot. It makes me happy right from the first sniff, quirky and fun, and again delivered in an adorable bottle. I wonder if the dots on the box are the pink peppercorns! Pretty florals follow, mostly sweet pea and heliotrope, in a base of amber, patchouli (not too much, I am glad to say) and tonka bean which gives the impression of vanilla, but not as sweet. The pepper resides through to the end, keeping the spark alive in the base notes. I wish I'd swapped for a larger bottle.

Opium by Yves Saint Laurent is a legend in the oriental fragrance group. With clove, pepper and myrrh, its spices and lush, resinous woods together with lily of the valley, rose, and jasmine created quite a stir when it was first launched. The tagline on the print ad (translated) read: For those who are addicted to Yves Saint Laurent." It was quickly changed from "are addicted to" to "adore" because the opium-as-drug connection was just too scandalous and edgy at the time. My how we've changed. Thankfully, Opium has not. It's still as dark, sophisticated, and beautiful as ever.

Theorema by Fendi, long gone and still so well-loved, combines pepper with orange notes, spices and woods. There's never been anything to compare. Theorema fans will do just about anything to get their hands on a dab or two. To think these were showing up on the shelves at TJMaxx!

In 2005, Clarins, the well-respected skincare company, launched the mother-and-daughter fragrances called Par Amour and Par Amour Toujours. Par Amour, the "Mother" scent, is another pepper-rose combination, sparkling with blackcurrant, warmed with vanilla and sandalwood, and absolutely beautiful. Nobody talks about either of these scents. Maybe because Clarins is not usually known for its fragrances. Both of them are sitting happily side-by-side (as they should be) on my perfume shelf. Daugher does not contain the pepper. Maybe she's just a bit too young for that right now.

Guerlain's "Love" series doesn't really deserve much attention. Most of them have been so unwearable on me that they're long gone from my collection, swapped out as quickly as I got them. But then there was With Love. This wild rose-pink pepper fragrance reminds me a bit of Mille, but it's lighter, fresher. The drydown of sandalwood is exquisite.

I love all of the Agent Provocateur scents. The most unusual of all of them, Eau Emotionelle, is a combination of cape snowbush (a wild rosemary from South Africa,) lie de vin (a red wine sauce? with shallots? and garlic?) pink pepper, white tea, and osmanthus. I get the winey note but not the garlic, thank goodness! Eau Emotionelle is actually a beautiful tea fragrance with fruity apricot notes from the osmanthus, and the snap of pink pepper. If I reach for this bottle, I'll wear it all week, it's just that good.

Rose combines with violet (and you know I love that) in the latest fragrance from Nanette Lepore, called Nanette. Soft florals are deepened with cedar and incense, and spiced with pink pepper. This is no cutesy-girly fragrance. Just like her beautiful garments, Nanette is growing up. She hasn't lost her vision, the signature style remains, with refinement, editing, and confidence. Ms. Blogdorf and I are proud of our hometown girl and her huge success in the fashion world, and in fragrances as well.

I'm going to teach Ms. Blogdorf how to cook. I'll be gifting her with her very own pepper grinder when we start our first lesson. She will probably sneak off to play in the perfumes. I'll let you know.

Do you have a favorite fragrance that has a pepper note in it? Tell us about it!

Disclaimer: All fragrances in the photos were purchased by the reviewer, with the exception of Si Lolita
which she obtained in a swap.
Reviewer: Patti F
Photo Credit: Patti F
Graphic Credit: Melanie Parker

40 Days and 40 Nights of Fragrance Notes: Fig

The Sweetest Fig by Angie W.

Figs, ugh. Before I developed an appreciation for fig fragrances, my only point of reference for figs was the disappointment of being a kid asked by a well-meaning adult if I’d like cookies and then the deflating moment of being handed a plate of Fig Newtons. Come on, no Oreos? No Girl Scout cookies? So the thought of fig used to conjure up memories of sulking over gritty, dry cookies, not a pleasant thing. But I began a love affair with fig fragrance when I started seriously exploring perfume about ten years ago. I’d just met several wonderful fragrance fanatics through the Makeup Alley Web site’s chat boards and in addition to enjoying daily online conversations about perfume, we began periodically meeting in New York to explore fragrance together. As I sniffered literally hundreds of perfumes, I found myself constantly drawn to a fig scents. The following are a few of my absolute favorites.

L’Artisan perfumers’ Premiere Figuier was one of the first and most lovely fig perfumes I discovered. Premiere Figuier was the company’s original exploration of the fig note, focusing on the fig’s leaf and adding notes of almond milk, coconut, and sandalwood. The name means “first fig tree” and was created by Olivia Giacobetti who intended for the scent to recreate the actual fig tree’s many elements. I personally adore anything with galbanum, and Premiere Fig adds this spicy green note to this wonderful scent.

L’Artisan next developed Premier Figuier Extrême which, according to L’Artisan’s Web site, is meant to recall ‘ripe figs drenched in Mediterranean sunlight’ and is a more intense version of Premiere Figuier. This scent relies much more on woody notes such as gorse, sandalwood, and stone pine. I find this to be a heavy, dark, sweet scent that is wonderful in spring and fall but perhaps a bit heavy for warm weather.

The idea of warm summer days brings me to my next favorite fig scent, Diptyqe’s Philosykos, also created by Olivia Giacobetti who designed the original L’Artisan fig scent. This fragrance is very distinctive from both L’Artisan creations because it is much lighter, fresher, and greener. I definitely get much more of the fig leaves from this scent and find that it’s the most wearable of all the fig scents I’ve tried because it is so fresh and doesn’t get overly sweet and cloying as some of the heavier fig scents can. Philosykos is also available in a lotion and shower gel (which can be bought in an adorable travel size duo) and I highly recommend both for a wonderful pick-me-up during hot summer months.

Claus Porto Rivale is an absolutely sparkling scent that comes in liquid hand soap and a bath soap. This is a mix of fig and grapefruit with the usual divine packaging Claus Porto is know for and makes a chic addition to any bathroom. Tip: if you live in NYC, Lafco hosts a Friday afternoon warehouse sale in Soho where you can score Claus Porto for up to 50% off! These hours may change at any given time, but most weekends the sale occurs on Fridays from 10-6pm at161 6th Avenue (btw Spring & Van Dam St). Happy shopping, fig lovers!

Some fig scents to try:

Diptyqe Philosykos
L’Artisan Premiere Figuier
L’Artisan Premier Figuier Extrême
Hermes Un Jardin en Mediterranee
Marc Jacobs for Men
Thierry Mugler Womanity
Acqua di Parma Blu Mediterraneo Fico de Amalfi
Annick Goutal Ninfeo Mio
Fresh Fig Apricot
CB I Hate Perfume Revelation
Miller Harris Figue Amere
Cielo by Napa Valley

Books and Poems Featuring Fig…for Inspiration!

The Sweetest Fig by Chris Van Allsburg
Figs by D.H. Lawrence
The First Fig by Edna St. Vincent Millay

Reviewer: Angie W
Graphic Credit: Melanie Parker
Sources: L’Artisan corporate Web site, Bois de Jasmin and Lucky Scent for note research.
Disclosure: The perfumes mentioned in this post were purchased, received as gifts, or sampled in stores by the reviewer.
Photo Credits: Luckyscent and Amazon

40 Days and 40 Nights of Fragrance Notes: Fruit Salad

Fruit Salad
By Patti F

I'm not one of those perfume lovers who turns her nose up (pun intended!) at the mention of fruit notes in perfumes.
As a matter of fact, most perfumes have at least one fruit note. We've already talked about some of them, bergamot,neroli, and grapefruit, as well as peach, one of my personal favorites. Let's talk about more of them!

When I first visited the Bond No. 9 boutique on Madison Avenue, there were only 16 fragrances in the line, all of them sold in the clear star bottles or sold by the ounce from the urns, decanted into pretty spray bottles by the sales associates.
I spent an hour in the shop before choosing my very first Bond, So New York. I purchased an ounce of the fragrance and chose the prettiest clear cylindrical bottle with a gold honeycomb cap. I went through that ounce within a month, and then I bought the star bottle in the large size on a trip to Chicago. The Bond counter at Chicago's Saks store was brand new, and the SA's there were so happy to chat Bond! The notes in So New York are bergamot, cocoa, chocolate, espresso, patchouli, lily of the valley,
peony, musk, precious woods, a warm milk accord, and mirabelle, which is a plum. The mirabelle plum is a fruit note that isn't quite like the plums we eat from the grocery store, it has a florally presence, it's not juicy like other stone fruit notes.
Mirabelle is also used in Emporio Armani City Glam For Her, the famously fascinating Molinard Tendre Friandise, and
in Bath & Body Works Dark Kiss (one of my favorites from that fun store!)

I have to thank Tania Sanchez and Luca Turin for introducing me to Prescriptives Calyx - they rave about it in their books Perfumes The Guide and Perfumes A-Z. This luscious fragrance is based on the juicy guava and wearing it is nothing short of mouth-watering deliciousness. It's perfect for a hot Summer evening and lingers on the skin without turning bitter or too ripe. Even though Prescriptives is long gone from the department stores, you can still find Calyx, and for that I'm grateful.

A visit to the local perfume counter can produce plenty of produce. Here's a little walk through the fruit salad of notes available in some fragrance I own, some odd and interesting fruits used in perfumery that are a little out of the norm but nonetheless lovely, light, and fun:

Rhubarb: found in the breezy and youthful Bond No. 9 Bryant Park, and in Grain De Folie by Gres. If you have the Gres and you do not love it, I would give it a very grateful home.

Kumquat: found in the now-discontinued but beautifully feminine Style by Ralph Lauren

Apricot: found in Lancome's Tresor (one of my newest loves, even though it's not a new fragrance,) John Varvatos, and Chopard Wish Pink Diamond.

Raspberry: found in Guerlain's Insolence and My Insolence, even though these fragrances have little else in common. Raspberry is also found in the impossible-to-find Fabulous by Countess Jan Moran. I thank my friend Patty for sharing hers with me. I wish I had a vat of this gorgeous fragrance.

Yuzu: found in Remember Me by Dior (nobody remembers it) and Versace Bright Crystal (not pictured, I didn't like it enough to own it.)

Lychee: found in my beloved Miracle by Lancome, Coco Mademoiselle by Chanel, and the lovely limited edition Midnight Charm by Dior, which was a Holiday scent that I never understood because it seems so much more for a hot Summer day than the cold Winter holidays.

Pineapple: found in Lauren by Ralph Lauren. The standard for pineapple scents, at least it was before the reformulation. I have the pure parfum, a gift from the husband. It was his favorite scent back when he thought women only wore one fragrance for their entire lives. He does not think that any more. Pineapple is also found in Victoria's Secret Sexy Little Things Noir, Now & Forever by Joan Rivers, Vivienne Westwood's Libertine, and the very under-appreciated Live by J-Lo.

Dates: found in the gorgeous Saks En Rose by Bond No. 9 and the equally gorgeous MAC Air Of Style/Monogram. Both of these perfumes were created by Laurent LeGuernec - my favorite perfumer and absolute master of the unexpected.

Pear: found in Victoria's Secret Sexy Little Things Noir Tease (and how adorable is that bottle!) and also in Alchimie by Rochas.

From the most lighthearted and easygoing eaux to the most mysterious and dark woodsy orientals, fruit notes are everywhere in perfumery, and we love them all!

Can you think of other weird or unusual fruit notes in perfumes that you love? Tell us all about them!

Reviewer: Patti F AKA Cavewoman
Disclaimer: The perfumes mentioned in this article and in the photos were purchased by the reviewer, with the exception of two.
Ralph Lauren's Lauren parfum was a gift from her husband. Fabulous by Jan Moran was a gift from her friend Patty.
Graphic Credit: Melanie Parker