My Alchemical Romance

ThreeASFOUR Fall/Winter 2010 Collection
by Jessica M

The inspiration: For this collection, ThreeASFOUR’s designers (Gabi
Asfour, Angela Donhauser, and Adi Gil) immersed themselves in the
history and imagery of alchemical science. They incorporated symbols
from the ancient cultures that practiced alchemy, and they worked with
materials that resembled ordinary metals (copper, lead) being
transformed into more precious substances (gold, silver).

How to get the look: Makeup artist Andrea Helgadottir (using MAC
cosmetics), hair stylist Ashley Javier (owner of the intimate salon
Parlor), and CND (formerly known as Creative Nail Design) collaborated
with the designers by using alchemical motifs and otherworldly contours.

Face: Helgadottir’s team smoothed out the models’ faces with MAC
Studio Sculpt Foundation for a clean background to the rest of the
makeup.
Eyes: The eyes were the focus of this look. Inspired by the
designers’ interest in ancient Egyptian art and culture, Helgadottir
devised an outlined, winged eye. She and her team of artists lined
and filled in this graphic shape with Fluidline gel eyeliner in
Blacktrack and painted two fine lines beneath the left eye with a
brush such as MAC’s #311.

Lips: The appropriately-named Myth lipstick was used for a pale,
satin-finish mouth.

Hair: Ashley Javier created a “modern flapper” style. After giving
volume to the hair with Kérastase Double Force hairspray and crimping
it throughout with a R-Session iron, he flipped it to one side and
gathered it in a low, sculptural bun, fixed with just a few hairpins.
An old-fashioned hairnet was placed over the model’s head so that
contained the hair for a smooth, fluid look, while it also functioned
as a veil over the model’s face. A few wavy tendrils echoed the
serpentine lines of the collection’s garments.

Nails: CND crafted custom-made press-on nails for the ThreeASFOUR
models to wear. Playing on the clothing’s contrasts of rubberized and
metallic materials, these nails were two-tone: they had matte black
bases and sparkling tips of deep-toned blue, bronze, or green.
Magical!

Tis Almost Fairy Time

Isaac Mizrahi Winter ‘10
By Angie W


The Inspiration: An Upper East side lady goes on a camping trip
(apparently without a comb)!
Val Garland, lead artist, told us that Isaac wanted the models to look
like fairies in a winter wonderland. She gave the models’ faces the look
of a frosty, blank canvas with no blush, no contouring, just a matte
face with a tiny bit of shine at the cheeks.



How to Get the Look:
The Eyes and Face: Very little product was applied and practically no
color. Vanilla eye shadow was applied and no mascara was used. Select
Cover Up concealer and Care Blend Oil were applied over the eyes,
lashes, and brows to “pale them out” and give the feeling of being lost
in a snow storm. MAC Pearl CCB was applied to cheeks for a bare hint of
shine.

Lips: A frozen rose shade was created by first using Naked lip liner
and then topping it with Tenderling blush.

The Nails: Kim D’Amato, Founder of Priti polish created the nail look.
Priti is a non-toxic polish line and all shades are named for flowers
and trees. For Isaac's look, Kim told us she related the nail color to
Isaac's makeup concept of a woman who had been out in cold, freezing
weather. Kim first applied 2 coats of Paper Bark Maple and then added a
matte top coat to give a frozen look to the nails.

The Hair: Hair was mussed, wild, and feral! The stylist warned us not
to take this look too far at home!

Credit: Angie W and Jessica M for Blogdorf Goodman

Once upon a runway…

Sophie Theallet Fall/Winter 2010 Collection
by Jessica M

The inspiration: Sophie Theallet took a “fairy tale” approach to this
collection. She imagined a farm girl who travels to the city, where
she becomes sophisticated and stylish. The collection’s designs, from
floral dirndl skirts to graceful evening gowns in shimmering neutrals,
documented her fantasy transformation from a milkmaid into an urban
princess.

How to get the look: Renowned makeup artist Stephane Marais, using
MAC cosmetics, created an innocent, romantic look. The models were
given a fresh-faced appearance with a sophisticated finish, to suit
the “peasant-to-princess” theme of Theallet’s collection.

Face: Gina Bettelli, a senior artist for MAC, explained that models’
faces had been kept simple and clean. Face and Body foundation was
used sparingly, where needed, and cheeks were flushed with a mixture
of two Blushcremes, Posey and Laid Back.

Eyes: The models’ eyes were lined with Stripdown Lip Pencil around the
eye socket. Lids were given a sheer, shimmering coat of Pro Studio
Finish Face Powder in Gold and loose Iridescent Powder in Silver Dusk,
mixed together with Mixing Medium/Water Base. A few touches of
Penultimate Brow Marker defined the brows.

Lips: Amorous lipstick was pressed onto the mouth with the fingertip.

Hair: A team of stylists, working with Antoinette Beenders, used
Aveda products for a flowing, tousled style. Models’ hair was prepped
with Pure Abundance Volumizing Tonic, blow dried, and further
thickened with Pure Abundance Hair Potion. The upper sections of the
hair were back-combed and gathered into a loose, low ponytail; the
lower hair was twisted around the ponytail, bringing it to the side.
The style was fixed with Control Force Hair Spray (new for June 2010)
and Air Control Hair Spray.

Credit: Jessica M and Angie W for Blogdorf Goodman

Mudhoney

Chris Benz Fall/Winter 2010 Collection
By Jessica M and Angie W

The Inspiration: Chris Benz reminisced about his Seattle background
and the girls he knew in school. He imagined spirited, rebellious
girls misbehaving and being sent on an “Outward Bound” program for
some rehabilitation, but wearing their fancy clothes in the middle of
the wilderness.

How to get the look: Makeup artist Daniel Martin, who is also a
Seattle native, thought back to the brown lipstick and matte makeup of
the 1990s “grunge” era. He revisited 90s-style brown lipstick, using
newer, sheer coverage to make it more contemporary. For the face, he
chose warm shades that worked with the intense oranges and browns in
Benz’s collection, and he created a dark, rocker-ish eye look for the
“experimental” Benz girl. (Unless otherwise noted, all products were
by Lancôme.)

Face: Models’ faces were lightly enhanced with Photôgenic Lumessence
foundation and Shu Uemura translucent powder, and their cheeks were
brushed with Blush Subtil in Cappucine.

Lips: Martin led his team in a three-step lip look. Le Crayon Poudre
brow pencil in Sable was used to fill the upper lip and the corners of
the lower lip. Matte lipstick in a chocolate-brown shade from the
Fall 2010 Lancôme collection (still unnamed) was applied to the lower
lip, pulling the liner inwards from the corners. A dab of Juicy Tubes
gloss in Touched By Light highlighted the lower lip.

Eyes: Eyelids were coated with a layer of a new crème-gel eye shadow
that will be launched in Fall 2010: this glittery black shade has a
working name of “Caviar Sparkle.” The insides of lower lids were
lined with Le Stylo waterproof eyeliner in Noir.

Nails: Manicurists applied two coats of Sweet Nude, a creamy
peachy-pink that will released by Lancôme later this year.

Hair: Head stylist John Ruidant created hair with a roughed-up feel,
to complement the textures of the clothing in Benz’s collection. He
separated the hair into two sections. The lower section was braided
in an angled French braid across the back of the head, with a ponytail
looped back up to cover part of the braid. The hair on the crown of
the head was twisted, knotted, and looped for a haphazard look.
Ruidant and his stylists used two Redken products: Fabricate 03
Heat-Active Texturizer and Workforce 09 Flexible Volumizing Spray.

Credit: Jessica M and Angie W for Blogdorf Goodman

Chelsea Girls

Erin Fetherston Fall/Winter 2010 Collection
by Jessica M

The inspiration: Fetherston’s “muse” for her fall/winter line was
Nico, the timelessly chic vocalist for The Velvet Underground. The
collection of 1970s-influenced outfits included flowing chiffon
dresses worn with high boots, tailored jackets, velvet shorts, and
slim, flared pants in a palette of ivory, metallic bronze, lilac, and
occasional accents of bright orange.

How to get the look: The models were given identical, Nico-inspired
styles with long, straight hair and bangs (similar to the designer’s
own cut), and their makeup was an impression of flushed cheeks,
stained lips, and glowing skin. The look was edgy but girlish,
suiting the bohemian style of the clothing.

Face: Lucia Pica and her team of MAC makeup artists began by
massaging MAC Care Blends Essential Oils into the models’ faces. They
lightly applied Select Cover-Up concealer and Mineralize Satinfinish
pressed powder where needed. They used Fearless lipstick (a new shade
for Fall 2010) on the models’ cheeks, letting the lipstick’s oils give
the skin a slight tint and glow. Then they rubbed a bit of thick
moisturizer onto the cheekbones for added luminosity; products spotted
on the makeup tables included Weleda Skin Food, Embryolisse Lait-Crème
Concentré, and Lucas Papaw Ointment.

Lips: Fearless was also used on the lips, dabbed onto the mouth with
the point of the lipstick and blended with a fingertip. Its rich
color flattered a range of skin-tones.

Eyes: Pica instructed her team to apply MAC Cocochino lipstick
(another Fall shade) to the models’ eyelids, working it across the
lids with a small blending brush for a wash of color and a shiny
texture. A tiny amount of lip balm (such as Kiehl’s Lip Balm #1) was
pressed into the inner corner of the eye for a highlighting effect.
Mascara was skipped, in order not to overdo the look.

Hair: Odile Gilbert and a team of stylists used MoroccanOil products
to give the models’ hair a smooth, full look. They blow-dried the
hair straight, using Hydrating Styling Cream, attached bang extensions
(also blow-dried for fullness), and fixed the style in place with a
misting of Luminous Hair Spray (to be released in March/April 2010).
Small amounts of Moroccanoil Treatment (on the ends) and Glimmer Shine
Spray added a healthy gleam.

Credit: Jessica M and Angie W for Blogdorf Goodman

Lady-like with an Edge

Carolina Herrera Winter ’10 Collection
By Angie W

The Inspiration: The makeup look, designed and executed by MAC artists, was created to resonate with Herrera’s rich and opulent collection. The look centered on rich wines and aubergines blended over the eye for a smoky purple eye. Artists referred to the look as a 70’s style, with a heavy application of several shades all over the eye, reminiscent of Biba’s palette of rich purples.

The Look:

Eyes: This look was ALL about the eyes. Five shades of purple were used to create the look. First, Night Moth (a lip pencil!) was applied all around the eye w/focus on the crease/lower orbit of the eye. Then Fig, Vibrant Gray, Indian Ink, and My Dark Magic were applied and blended.


Lips: The lips were kept very subdued so that the eyes took center stage. Subtle Romance Gloss was lightly applied.

How to Get the Look at Home:
Fatima Thomas, Senior Artist for the MAC Pro team, explained how to create a more user friendly look that readers can easily do at home. Instead of using Night Moth (which could irritate some people’s eyes since it’s a lip product w/red pigment) try using Prunella. Apply Prunella all around the eye (lining top and lower lids) and create a line that traces the upper eye socket, then blend it out so it’s diffused and barely there. Then use Sketch shadow and trace over where the Prunella pencil was applied. This adds richness and depth.

Next, use MAC pigment in Pink Opal to add a little sheen on the lids and also place it at the inner corner of the eye. Then use Zoom mascara in Fast Black because MAC’s blackest black is what’s needed to hold up against the strong, smoky purples. Then use Smolder pencil eye kohl in the water line of the eye to contrast w/any darkness that may be present under the eye. Finish the look off w/a sheer pink like Lust lipglass or barely a touch of Viva Glam II.

The Nails:
The nails were a ladylike camel color, Chocolate Milk, by Creative Nail Design. The gentle but sophisticated brown complemented the purple eye w/a subtle red undertone in the polish. This brown is a great neutral to wear with rich blues such as those shown in Herrera’s collection. Air Dry top coat was applied to give a sophisticated high shine to the nails. CND artists told us that Chocolate Milk is more an uptown brown than a downtown brown, perfect for the Herrera woman’s sophisticated look.

Credit: Angie W and Jessica M for Blogdorf Goodman

Ultraviolet Radiation

Preen Fall/Winter 2010 Collection
By Jessica M

The inspiration: The English duo of Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi
said that this collection was initially inspired by the cover of New
Order’s “Power, Corruption, and Lies” album (1983). It included a few
floral prints and soft pastel shades, as well as plenty of black, in
designs that were alternately feminine and tailored, often
body-conscious or asymmetrical, and always modern.


Makeup artist James Kaliardos honed in on the lavender shades from the collection,
translating them into a face that was romantic and futuristic at the
same time.

How to get the look: All makeup was by MAC. Kaliardos chose a range
of lavender, pink, and mauve shades and used them throughout the face,
even in areas where these colors aren’t normally worn. The effect was
“transparent but strange... like a rose, but aggressive.”


Face: Kaliardos and his team applied Mineralize Skinfinish Natural
Foundation with a small foundation brush for a sheer, creamy look and
brushed on a layer of Blot pressed powder. Cheeks were sculpted with
mauve and lavender shades of Mineralize Blush and Pro Cream Color
Base. Pink Opal pigment was swept in an arc from the temple down to
the cheekbone, so that it caught the light with an iridescent effect.

Eyes: Brows were kept light. Pink Freeze shadow was applied to the
inner corners for a pearly accent, and the outer section of the lids
was colored with Smooth Operator and Beautiful Iris shadows, brushed
out past the corners of the eyes. Quite Spoiled shadow (available
Fall 2010) was applied in the crease.

Lips: Mouths were soft and pale, dabbed with Pro Cream Colour Base in
a pink shade.

Nails: In a minimalist touch, nails were left bare.

Hair: Master stylist Luke Hersheson devised a look that was softly
chic, with a clever “twist” (literally). Clean hair was prepped with
TiGi Catwalk Root Boost for natural-looking fullness. It was pulled
straight back and down, then separated into two inward twists.
Hersheson knotted the twists twice, fastened the hair below the knot
with a clear elastic, and gave light texture to the ends with a
curling iron. The sides were kept sleek with bobby pins and a misting
of TiGi Catwalk Firm Hold Hair Spray.

Credit: Jessica M and Angie W for Blogdorf Goodman

Tonight I'll Be Your Naughty Girl

INSPIRATION: "I was inspired by the film La Vie des Autres. I wanted the models to have a dirty look as if the hair and makeup had been slept in," said designer Marc Jacobs, who specifically requested Barbarella lipstick to be used on the models’ lips.

LOOK: “This look is what you’d see on a girl from the East Village or St. Germain des Pres-an existentialist with a modern twist,” said NARS Cosmetics Founder and Creative Director François Nars whose application technique included using his fingers to achieve the faded effect. “These girls are sexy and cool. Their makeup looks dirty and worn out as if it has been on all night but still translates beautifully on the runway.”

FACE

· Sheer Glow Foundation

· (Enchanted Blush NEW for Summer 2010); try Gina Blush for a similar look

EYES

· D. Gorgeous Single Eyeshadow (NEW for Spring 2010)

· Black Moon Eyeliner Pencil

· Nuits Blanches Eyeliner Stylo

· Larger Than Life Volumizing Mascara

LIPS
· Barbarella Lipstick

Credit: Nars and Flicker